Astrolux S1/Blf A6 - Highest Output Battery?

Hi guys, newbie flashaholic here! I just bought an astrolux s1, and as advertised it indicates a “1,600 lumens (use a protected 18650 battery)” thing. But as I read somewhere here that using a protected cell, would not make it around that 1,600 lumens output for some reasons. Also, using unprotected cells is still OK, since this flashlight has low voltage protection.

And to achieve the best performance for my precious light, may I have some suggestion/recommendation on what 18650 to use (high drain or whatsoever), the brand and model. I also plan to have someone to do a spring bypass mod on my light.

Thank you very much!

Anything under around 5 amps probably isn’t worth doing a bypass IMO. I tested by rigging up a flashlight spring on my bench power supply and set it to 5amps, it only started getting warm at about 5.5 and that was uncompressed. its quite a beefy spring on the driver anyway.

I use Panasonic NCR18650B, 3400mah or there or there abouts high quality cell, pulls about 5ish amps on a fresh charge will quickly drop off though.

High drain unprotected Samsung 30Q:

That’s how you are going to get the most out of a DD light. You can also check Efest IMR, Sony VTC5/6, LG HG2, Keeppower…

Samsung 30Q is what I use. Good vfm from Banggood. And will out run a 3400 cell easily…

Sony VTC6

I don’t want to butt in on the thread……

But if I may ask….I have the same light.

Is there any benefit to getting the 30Q’s if we do NOT do the spring bypass? (i.e., running the light stock with no mods). Will there be an increase in output compared to the Panny protected or my Orbtronic 3100 protected batts?

I’ve tried reading multiple threads and seems to be conflicting info….or maybe it just confuses me.

yes/no… depends. What are you comparing it too?

The 30Q can put out good current, so with or without a spring by-pass is likely to offer good PEAK numbers. But more importantly, it will sustain the output well with less voltage sag than some other batteries, while still giving good total runtimes.

e.g.

If you use the light on Turbo and High mostly, the 30Q will essentially be brighter for longer than with a 3600mAh battery. Total runtime is less, but once you get down to that level chances are Turbo won’t be working anyhow, maybe not even high. So it’s a bit mute on the benefits of a higher capacity cell.

If you are using Moonlight and low however, it’s a completely different story.

Drumstick…you seem to always be Johnny on the Spot. THANK YOU!

If I may extend the discussion a bit further:

1. Would it be accurate to summarize what you said above in this way? With NO spring bypass, the 30Q (compared to the Orbtronic for example) should still be noticeably brighter on the higher modes…and sustain that “brighter-ness” longer than the Orbtronic….but at the sacrifice of somewhat shorter run-times (because of higher output drain and slightly lower capacity).

2. IF, I say IF I get brave and try the spring bypass……
a. The only true benefit would be IF I had the high drain cell I assume (translating to even higher high level outputs but again, draining cell faster). Running the spring bypass for a protected Orbtronic or Panasonic NCR18650B is not going produce any noticeable gains. Correct or not?

3. IF I get the spring bypass done, to your knowledge, will that have any negative effect on using the light with cells that aren’t high drain? Or will it make no difference because the light is only going to pull as much as the cell allows?

4. May I get a link to this cool battery comparing tool you keep linking? I’ve seen it before but can’t remember where.

THANK YOU AGAIN!

One way to think about the effect of these mods (spring bypass and high drain cell upgrade) is that they are both decreasing the resistance in the circuit. Reducing the circuit resistance means less voltage is dropped which means more current will flow through the LED. A spring bypass might reduce the tailcap resistance from 35mOhms to 15mOhms. Upgrading the cell might reduce the cell internal resistance from 50mOhms to 30mOhms. So doing either mod might have a similar effect on the performance, and doing both will increase the performance more.

Another thing to consider is the shape of the discharge curve, which isn’t necessarily related to the internal resistance of the cell. A discharge curve in which the voltage levels out as the cell discharges will maintain a higher voltage than a cell whose voltage declines more linearly while discharging. This will affect the performance as the cell discharges.

Here is the discharge curve database.
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650comparator.php

Even without spring bypass you may get about 5 amps of drain. A high drain cell will handle a higher current for longer then a low drain cell. So the Panasonic may have 3400Mah @ 3 amps of drain where the samsung 30Q may have 3000Mah @ 5 amps of drain. Once you get past 3 amps with the Panasonic they may drop Mah rating so from 3400mah to maybe 2700. where as the High drain cells will happily provide you the same Mah at a higher amperage so you may get 3000mah till say 10 amps. Also the high drain cells will release the energy easier.

Interestingly, while many people say that the 30q nets the highest power in FET lights, in my personal experience I always get the highest amps out of good old HE2’s (or 4’s they are basically the same).

That said the difference in minor and the 30Q does offer a lot more capacity, so for an EDC light that is what I would use, or even a Panasonic “GA”. In a true EDC light runtime > output.

GOOD clear answers! Thank you both! Guess imma be spendin’ some money again soon.

And, EasyB, thank you for the comparator link!

:+1: :+1:

You have to try VTC5A or VTC6 :slight_smile: You won’t regret it , trust me .

I have a feeling they would do better but put simply I am not THAT interested in getting another 50 lumens. Not when I can get 3-4 HE2’s for the price of 1 VTC6.

When the price drops on the VTC6, I am sure I will get some though.

That’s for sure . I still use also some VTC5A , really impressed by the difference in some builds.

I use Sony VTC5 and samsung 25R also LG HG2 they are all about the same in my direct drive lights maybe if i could go higher amperage the performance would change.

VERY good points Texas…and hence part of my quandary. I don’t use the S1 a LOT. It currently sits atop my refrigerator as one of the easy access lights for around the house stuff and going out in the back yard. I tend to keep the ZL SC62w on me. SO….the extra output for those uses probably aren’t “necessary”……but since it currently is NOT my EDC, it’s both NOT as justifiable and, at the same time, IS justifiable since I don’t really “worry” about runtimes on it (since it currently sits by 2 always charged batteries).

I’d be getting the high drain just for that occasional “WOW! That’s bright!”……to impress myself or a bystander.

DANG that male drive for “ohh…ohhh…oh…Moar Power”.

Right so I’ve just done some testing for you. I have a stock BLF A6, so no spring bypasses or anything.

Just freshly charged a Samsung 30Q and a protected Panasonic 2900mah ICR (it’s the closest thing I’ve got to the 3400).

On turbo:

2900 Panasonic = 3.54amps
Samsung 30Q = 4.56amps

I measured amps at the tail cap with fat 12awg wire leads. So this doesn’t account for the switch Spring. But shows with a non by passed driver Spring the amp draw is significantly different.

I can’t translate this to lumens directly. But I did do some ceiling bounce lux tests.

2900mah = Intial lux of 646 settling to 598
30Q = Intial lux of 781 settling to 606

So the 30Q is quite a bit brighter intially. But settles only marginally brighter. I suspect the non by passed springs might be to blame. The 30Q also makes the light heat up more so and quicker.

Is it worth it?

Well yes and no. Tbh the human eye probably can’t easily tell the difference in lumens at this level. As its only fractionally brighter. But you’d probably notice additional range/throw if used outside. But you’d need them side by side to see this.

Where the difference would be however, once the batteries voltage drops to say 3.9v or lower. The 30Q should be offering more lumens at this level and will essentially offer a flatter longer regulation. I have certainly noticed this in other lights using different batteries.

As far as Spring by passes go. It’s really easy to do. Just two simple solder joints. I usually use copper braid but 20awg wire works too. Just don’t try and make it too long or short. That said, I never felt the need to do it on the A6. It’s bright enough without and gets hot enough that I’m not chasing every last lumen. Larger lights like the X6 I think it’s very worth doing, as they tend to handle the heat much better.

Wow! Just wow. Uncalled for effort. Thank you for that!

A gentleman and DEFINITELY a scholar.

For out BLF drivers the chart( lumen output) would be:
VTC5A- definately the leader, then VTC6/VTC5, then LG HG2/Samsung 30Q, Then 25r/HE2(4)

personaly i use Samsung 30q cause ithave the bet of both sides: lumen output vs runtime

yet for the max amps VTC5A: even at 3.4 battery voltage it gives 2.5amps( vs 2.1 for 30q) at the emitter( XPL)