Astrolux S1/Blf A6 - Highest Output Battery?

Interestingly, while many people say that the 30q nets the highest power in FET lights, in my personal experience I always get the highest amps out of good old HE2’s (or 4’s they are basically the same).

That said the difference in minor and the 30Q does offer a lot more capacity, so for an EDC light that is what I would use, or even a Panasonic “GA”. In a true EDC light runtime > output.

GOOD clear answers! Thank you both! Guess imma be spendin’ some money again soon.

And, EasyB, thank you for the comparator link!

:+1: :+1:

You have to try VTC5A or VTC6 :slight_smile: You won’t regret it , trust me .

I have a feeling they would do better but put simply I am not THAT interested in getting another 50 lumens. Not when I can get 3-4 HE2’s for the price of 1 VTC6.

When the price drops on the VTC6, I am sure I will get some though.

That’s for sure . I still use also some VTC5A , really impressed by the difference in some builds.

I use Sony VTC5 and samsung 25R also LG HG2 they are all about the same in my direct drive lights maybe if i could go higher amperage the performance would change.

VERY good points Texas…and hence part of my quandary. I don’t use the S1 a LOT. It currently sits atop my refrigerator as one of the easy access lights for around the house stuff and going out in the back yard. I tend to keep the ZL SC62w on me. SO….the extra output for those uses probably aren’t “necessary”……but since it currently is NOT my EDC, it’s both NOT as justifiable and, at the same time, IS justifiable since I don’t really “worry” about runtimes on it (since it currently sits by 2 always charged batteries).

I’d be getting the high drain just for that occasional “WOW! That’s bright!”……to impress myself or a bystander.

DANG that male drive for “ohh…ohhh…oh…Moar Power”.

Right so I’ve just done some testing for you. I have a stock BLF A6, so no spring bypasses or anything.

Just freshly charged a Samsung 30Q and a protected Panasonic 2900mah ICR (it’s the closest thing I’ve got to the 3400).

On turbo:

2900 Panasonic = 3.54amps
Samsung 30Q = 4.56amps

I measured amps at the tail cap with fat 12awg wire leads. So this doesn’t account for the switch Spring. But shows with a non by passed driver Spring the amp draw is significantly different.

I can’t translate this to lumens directly. But I did do some ceiling bounce lux tests.

2900mah = Intial lux of 646 settling to 598
30Q = Intial lux of 781 settling to 606

So the 30Q is quite a bit brighter intially. But settles only marginally brighter. I suspect the non by passed springs might be to blame. The 30Q also makes the light heat up more so and quicker.

Is it worth it?

Well yes and no. Tbh the human eye probably can’t easily tell the difference in lumens at this level. As its only fractionally brighter. But you’d probably notice additional range/throw if used outside. But you’d need them side by side to see this.

Where the difference would be however, once the batteries voltage drops to say 3.9v or lower. The 30Q should be offering more lumens at this level and will essentially offer a flatter longer regulation. I have certainly noticed this in other lights using different batteries.

As far as Spring by passes go. It’s really easy to do. Just two simple solder joints. I usually use copper braid but 20awg wire works too. Just don’t try and make it too long or short. That said, I never felt the need to do it on the A6. It’s bright enough without and gets hot enough that I’m not chasing every last lumen. Larger lights like the X6 I think it’s very worth doing, as they tend to handle the heat much better.

Wow! Just wow. Uncalled for effort. Thank you for that!

A gentleman and DEFINITELY a scholar.

For out BLF drivers the chart( lumen output) would be:
VTC5A- definately the leader, then VTC6/VTC5, then LG HG2/Samsung 30Q, Then 25r/HE2(4)

personaly i use Samsung 30q cause ithave the bet of both sides: lumen output vs runtime

yet for the max amps VTC5A: even at 3.4 battery voltage it gives 2.5amps( vs 2.1 for 30q) at the emitter( XPL)

Wow, I got an overload of information here, very useful indeed. I am overwhelmed with the replies I received plus some really helpful information with regards to types of batteries, ampere, chart comparison. I will try first the Samsung 30q first, then other high drain batteries later. How about keepower high drain batteries? Would you guys recommend that? Thank you very much for helping a newbie here! :slight_smile:

Which Keeppower high drain batteries?

If the black 3200 IMR, which I also have, it is basically a rewrapped of grey Panasonic NCR18650BD, which is rated for 10A continuous discharge.

If that is the case, the Samsung 30Q, LG HG2, Sony VTC6 are theoretically better for high drain usage as they are rated for around 20A continuous

I think the ratings can cloud the issue sometimes. Just because a battery might be rated to deliver ‘x’ goods, does not mean it will actually do it, or perform as well as another battery below this level.

Logically you’d think it should, but inn my experience it just doesn’t seem to be the case. Also pushing batteries harder will generally get the worse performance from that battery, i.e. pushing a battery to 75% of it’s rated draw will normally result in lower runtimes and probably reduce the number of times you can recharge it.

Anyone who is familiar with the RC world, be it planes or cars, will know the discharge C rating of batteries is crucial for performance and is generally much easier to see than it is with flashlights. e.g. a plane may require a 20C battery for it’s rated specs. They supply a 25C as standard. It goes fine. You buy some new batteries which are 45C rated, so logic would say over the top and not needed. But low and behold the plane will be far more punchy and usually fly longer, even for the same mAh rating.

Thank you for your clarification regarding keeppower, so they are rebranded. Okay, ill just buy the Samsung 30Q first, anyway, does the flat top 30q fits perfectly with the Astrolux S1/BLF A6? or it should be the button top?

Basically batteries brands such as Keeppower, Obtronics, Efest, AW are just rewrappers, and same goes for torchlight branded batteries such as those made for Nitecore, Olight, Fenix, etc.
For 18650 batteries, they are normally just rewrapped of cells made by Panasonic/Sanyo, Samsung, LG or Sony.

Flat top works fine, as I’m using the stock 30Q or HG2 for my BLF A6

Okay, so basically which performs better 30Q or HG2 or they are just virtually the same? Thanks for the tip akhyar!

I couldn’t notice any difference through my naked eyes.

Did you also spring bypass mod your BLF A6?

Nope. Mine is stock config

I use flat tops in mine, although I see no reason why a button top wouldn’t work too and would allow it to work in lights that require them. That said, batteries are fairly cheap, so don’t sweat it too much. Just buy for now and worry about later when it happens.

Likewise, the 30Q might or might not be the best battery, really depends on what you consider as best. But it is a good battery for the money and ones that exceed it in performance for this type of light are only going to be marginal. And something you’d only be able to tell by measuring it with a DMM or lux meter, not with the naked eye.