Yeah, it was posted in my review but the above quote is the gist of it.
That is one thing I forgot to mention, the larger 3012 and 5015 allow you to charge batteries without a diode, which is much much better (it allows you to see the actual voltage of the batteries instead of just what the supply is putting out plus the diodes have a voltage drop as we know.
The ability to charge batteries with up to 15A is quite a nice feature to have.
You can look at the extra cost as a high powered battery charger.
So, I am considering ordering the DPS 5015. I have never used AliExpress. Do you guys preload a card to use with them? If so, what kind of card does it take?
They are secure enough that I just use my normal card. I mean aliexpress / alibaba is one of the largest companies in the world, I am gonna guess that they have halfway decent security.
I did not buy one of these, however I have in the past been greatly disappointed with these type of supplies due to my overly exuberant expectations.
Don’t expect to input 40V and have continuously variable output voltage from 0V to 32V AND be able to draw 12A along that whole range.
I am guessing here, but I’m thinking that you could possibly get that 12A only IF the input voltage is no more than say 1.5 times the output voltage.
Even that 12A might be an exaggeration.
For me, this could be useful for some portable power. Mate this with an 18V drill pack, and you could do all kinds of neat things with it.
I thought the same thing when I first ordered them but to date they have worked exactly as advertised. I have nothing that can use 30v @ 12 amps to test it with but on my smaller unit that is powered with a 12v power supply, it has no trouble providing the full 5A it is rated for up to 11v.
It most certainly DOES provide 12 amps no problem at all (well besides the shunts and mosfet getting warm), I do it all the time when testing multi-emitter lights among other things.
I have yet to have it not do what it should under any circumstances.
You misunderstand, I have 2 units and both function exactly as they should. 1 with a 12V input and the other with a ~40v input. I have no problem getting whatever voltage and amperage I want no matter what the input voltage is (as long as it is over the output naturally).
They actually make a GREAT substitute for a bench power supply and that is exactly what I am using them for.
The only thing I have not been able to test is both high voltage and amperage as I have nothing that can pull that much power.
Yeah, I can see how folks might interpret the operating ranges to mean that the product can operate in both extremes simultaneously. The product page does warn about it, but it isn’t stated in a clear manner. One has to know a bit how these budget buck circuits work to know that it stresses them to have too much voltage overhead on the supply side. You got to pay big bucks for what you are expecting. That is why mine will be powered by 1 to 4 DPS-600PD’s. That will enable it to be powered by 12, 24, 36, or 48 volts. Actually, much more choices will be available as they are being modded for variable voltage output.
I've also taken notice of the abundance of controlled user friendly dc-dc converters available recently. Search "DROK constant current" on amazon and you will get something almost like (or maybe the same as) these as well as a number of other neat things, like for example this:
Or even smaller ones without the displays that can even be used in a roomy light build, but still have pots for both voltage and current limits (the latter of which could be replaced by a remote knob for analog power control of a light).
NOTE: 1.You must make sure that the input voltage is 1.1 times higher than output voltage. Under large current circumstances, pay attention to heat elimination.
These seem like a great deal for what they're asking, no question. I paid several times the price of this setup for my 30V 10A linear supply.
Be careful with the cheap power supplies for these---remember: the only thing keeping you from the mains is that power supply; this buck converter is not isolated. I wouldn't want to be touching probes or live equipment all the time that is powered by a questionable AC/DC power supply. Spring a few extra bucks and at least get a Meanwell or other mainstream (and hopefully listed) AC/DC supply to power this with.
Depending on your needs, a laptop supply should be pretty reliable no? (maybe they don't handle abuse such as shorting well?) Often available for free.
So you are saying that you can input 49V and draw, say 6V, at 15A with this thing?
If that is true, I am very, very surprised! I will have to consider the DPS5015. As some others mentioned, being able to go over 42V is a must for some of the higher power COB emitters.
Ditto, as I said above, I use this to test basically all my flashlight builds before putting batteries in as it allows me to see exactly what is going on. It REGULARLY sees the full 12A it can deliver at ~4v. Sometimes for extended periods in order to test thermal regulation on the light. All of this with a ~38V input voltage.
Besides getting a little warm it has shown no issues at all over the few months I have been using them.
Agreed, a better power supply is indeed a good idea. Something like the server power supplies that were posted earlier (or maybe in the review thread?) are ideal but also cost a lot more. I want to get a 5015 with one of those server power supplies but would have to sell the 3012 I have now to afford it, so kinda stuck at the moment lol.
For basic hobby use a cheap power supply is a cheap way to get it up and running.
The bang for the buck is what attracted me to these in the first place. I could not find anything close.
An original (not cheap clone) laptop power supply ought to do the trick. Some of the older laptops (and even some of the newer gaming laptops) have 200-300 watt supplies! Generally only around 18V-24V, but that is plenty for most flashlight stuff.
Well, before just now reading the great news you reported in Post 40, I assumed the following wording was an attempt to say. “do not have too much voltage overhead”. We all know how wildly inaccurate translations to another language can be. Since it was talking about the high voltages, I interpreted it to mean what I understand of the budget buck circuits I have dealt with. Now I have no idea what it means:
“Input voltage range is DC 6-60V and 60v is the limit voltage; please leave a room to use.”
EDIT: Maybe the above means, don’t power so close to 60v that fluctuations and surges in the power supply push voltage above 60 volts. It would be cool if the designer chimed in on this current discussion.
