Yeah, 5A out at 11V because your input is only 12V
What I’ saying is that if you input 30V you would not be able to get anywhere near 5A out.
All I am saying is this is not a substitute for a variable bench type power supply that can provide the amps over it’s entire voltage range.
I still do not have a decent bench top power supply. I am thinking about getting something like this to make a portable supply.
You misunderstand, I have 2 units and both function exactly as they should. 1 with a 12V input and the other with a ~40v input. I have no problem getting whatever voltage and amperage I want no matter what the input voltage is (as long as it is over the output naturally).
They actually make a GREAT substitute for a bench power supply and that is exactly what I am using them for.
The only thing I have not been able to test is both high voltage and amperage as I have nothing that can pull that much power.
Yeah, I can see how folks might interpret the operating ranges to mean that the product can operate in both extremes simultaneously. The product page does warn about it, but it isn’t stated in a clear manner. One has to know a bit how these budget buck circuits work to know that it stresses them to have too much voltage overhead on the supply side. You got to pay big bucks for what you are expecting. That is why mine will be powered by 1 to 4 DPS-600PD’s. That will enable it to be powered by 12, 24, 36, or 48 volts. Actually, much more choices will be available as they are being modded for variable voltage output.
I've also taken notice of the abundance of controlled user friendly dc-dc converters available recently. Search "DROK constant current" on amazon and you will get something almost like (or maybe the same as) these as well as a number of other neat things, like for example this:
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Adjustable-Converter-Stabilizer-Protective/dp/B01FQH4M82
or for super cheap (no idea about quality on any):
https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Regulator-Step-down-Transformer-Adjustable/dp/B00GZG7X9Y
Or even smaller ones without the displays that can even be used in a roomy light build, but still have pots for both voltage and current limits (the latter of which could be replaced by a remote knob for analog power control of a light).
quoting:
NOTE: 1.You must make sure that the input voltage is 1.1 times higher than output voltage. Under large current circumstances, pay attention to heat elimination.
But maybe that doesn't cover the whole point.
These seem like a great deal for what they're asking, no question. I paid several times the price of this setup for my 30V 10A linear supply.
Be careful with the cheap power supplies for these---remember: the only thing keeping you from the mains is that power supply; this buck converter is not isolated. I wouldn't want to be touching probes or live equipment all the time that is powered by a questionable AC/DC power supply. Spring a few extra bucks and at least get a Meanwell or other mainstream (and hopefully listed) AC/DC supply to power this with.
Depending on your needs, a laptop supply should be pretty reliable no? (maybe they don't handle abuse such as shorting well?) Often available for free.
So you are saying that you can input 49V and draw, say 6V, at 15A with this thing?
If that is true, I am very, very surprised! I will have to consider the DPS5015. As some others mentioned, being able to go over 42V is a must for some of the higher power COB emitters.
Ditto, as I said above, I use this to test basically all my flashlight builds before putting batteries in as it allows me to see exactly what is going on. It REGULARLY sees the full 12A it can deliver at ~4v. Sometimes for extended periods in order to test thermal regulation on the light. All of this with a ~38V input voltage.
Besides getting a little warm it has shown no issues at all over the few months I have been using them.
Agreed, a better power supply is indeed a good idea. Something like the server power supplies that were posted earlier (or maybe in the review thread?) are ideal but also cost a lot more. I want to get a 5015 with one of those server power supplies but would have to sell the 3012 I have now to afford it, so kinda stuck at the moment lol.
For basic hobby use a cheap power supply is a cheap way to get it up and running.
The bang for the buck is what attracted me to these in the first place. I could not find anything close.
I usually get my power supplies from the thrift store. It’s like $1 for whatever you find in the cord box.
Good idea, although keep in mind that normal ATX power supplies are only 12V. Laptop supplies are usually 15-20v but not a lot of wattage.
These work fine, just keep in mind that these modules can only reduce voltage, not increase it.
An original (not cheap clone) laptop power supply ought to do the trick. Some of the older laptops (and even some of the newer gaming laptops) have 200-300 watt supplies! Generally only around 18V-24V, but that is plenty for most flashlight stuff.
Well, before just now reading the great news you reported in Post 40, I assumed the following wording was an attempt to say. “do not have too much voltage overhead”. We all know how wildly inaccurate translations to another language can be. Since it was talking about the high voltages, I interpreted it to mean what I understand of the budget buck circuits I have dealt with. Now I have no idea what it means:
“Input voltage range is DC 6-60V and 60v is the limit voltage; please leave a room to use.”
EDIT: Maybe the above means, don’t power so close to 60v that fluctuations and surges in the power supply push voltage above 60 volts. It would be cool if the designer chimed in on this current discussion.
^
That sounds reasonable (and consistent with my EDIT above). I’m even more stoked about this 5015 after hearing what you and TA have experienced. Thank you for reporting it. 
EDIT: I still plan on keeping the input voltage fairly close to output voltage, but it’s great to hear how hardy this unit seems to be.
Yeah, I have been truly impressed with the quality of these units which is the only reason I posted about them in the first place.
Heck when testing the voltage drop in my leads I did it by shorting them out and seeing what the voltage drop was at 10A. Did that for some time while trying to reduce it as much as possible and trying to figure out what the weak links were. 10A @ .5v was no problem at all even with 38V input.
I really don’t need anything with much power; I only use a power supply to calibrate drivers, not test LEDs. But this thread got me in the “upgrade mood” anyways.
This is what I had been using, a B3603 and a 9v, 1A power supply from an old LCD picture frame.
It works ok, but I never liked how exposed it is or how thinly protected the power cord was.
So I just ordered one of these for only $5
Which is actually a downgrade in that it is CV only, not CC, but for me that’s ok. The nice thing is that it shows Current and Voltage simultaneously and has a nice acrylic shell.
I’m pairing it with this 12v, 1.8A Bose psu I just got at Salvation army for $1. It’s a bump in power and an even bigger bump in quality. It has a single thick cord instead of the weak side-by-side glued-together cord on the old psu. 20awg vs 24awg and a lot more rubber.
Thanks for the heads up, I just ordered a few including a DPS3005 which is a 5A all components inside the display.
I have actually been looking at that same power supply for some time, It keeps popping up on banggood. Just could not think of a use for it.
One thing to keep in mind is that the cheap supplies can have a lot of ripple voltage, this could effect calibration on drivers. So if you notice the calibration is not right, I would look into that.