Selfbuilt said in this review that the TM11 is having problmes with long cells. Actually Sysmax designed the flashlight to fit well with their Jetbeam cells. See his youtube review for that.
What is real world for eveybody. I've seen Benckie putting a stop every time on 3V. What's real about that?. Many flashlights stop at 2.7V. So do I say it's real to ignore that I can have more runtime donw to 2.75V or 2.5V.
My Shadow TC6's driver is designed to cut at 5V. So yes, some 2.5V cells are be good for me, or others using this flashlight. I many times use it on low and medium so i need longer runtimes.
So from my point of view, I need tests done for 0.2A, 0.5A and 1A. That why I find 2100's test for the Panny useful.
Technically you are correct for your described need....but then the Crelant 7G5, Shadow TC6, SR51, BD-4, STL-V2, DBS 3SMs, CQG Magic Wand, Catapult, T40CS, V60C, TK35/50/60, Masterpiece Pro-1, multi 16340/18350 capable flashlights and many others can't be useless. I have quite a number of these lights and others as well. We also use lights for commercial/professional use in another country, and for my use it's for pleasure.
Testing cells at 3A is only part of the whole story. How about for one of my flashlight, coz it discharges at 5 amps. 3A can't be useless.... Stuff from the commercial custom mods/Elektrolumens/Lambda regularly go above that even.
2 nights ago i was modding my HID, so i needed quite a number of hours of good light. The CQG extreme runtime (3 x 18650) proved quite useful. Running > 1 cell enables you not to gun the cell too hard.
There are also very good lights from Jetbeam/Sunwayman/Fenix/Xeno/Elzetta, expensive yes...that have XM-Ls or XP-Gs that do below 2A.
The factory has deceived us, we paid for performance PTC but instead it seems they have used fewer components in the PTCs.
We had some much trust in these protected batteries that we have contacted HKJ and send him for free our batteries to be tested. HKJ can confirm that. That is what we told some clients to be as our official report, where we were expecting very good results. And we wanted a top quality tester to do it.
The Panasonic NCR18650A cells are new and genuine and very good cells.
Our conclusion is that the protected cells are usable to currents up to 2A. Even better if the cells are used in a series where the current to the led is 3A because then the current taken from each cell is 1.5A. In these situations the protected cells will perform well. Without the PTC the cells will be able to sustain larger current, because the PTC will not block them.
We have said to Benckie that we would reward him if he would do the things we asked, in our first reply to him. That's why we refunded him, to actually make the time to do it and we thank him for doing the tests.
As for discharging to 2.5v with a low current most chargers will not initiate a recharge.
Or am I not getting what this dude is on about either?
"What is real world for eveybody. I've seen Benckie putting a stop every time on 3V. What's real about that?. Many flashlights stop at 2.7V. So do I say it's real to ignore that I can have more runtime donw to 2.75V or 2.5V.
My Shadow TC6's driver is designed to cut at 5V. So yes, some 2.5V cells are be good for me, or others using this flashlight. I many times use it on low and medium so i need longer runtimes.
So from my point of view, I need tests done for 0.2A, 0.5A and 1A. That why I find 2100's test for the Panny useful. "quote"
I have quite a few chargers, the Trustfire TR-001, UF WF-188, a few cheapo chargers (from my lasers) and a hobby charger. All are ok, the lowest i have gone is 1.7V. (disclaimer - don't try that yourself! LOL! )
PS. Posted earlier in this thread, and also the Sky Ray 3800 thread, where i tested the runtimes of 2 x 2900mAh NCR18650 in a real world Sky Ray 3800. That one draws 2.6 amps and goes as far up as 4.2 amps, in reality. It has low-voltage cut for the driver so it's quite convenient to test.
Bro! I see your "6 amps DRY". Try not to gun it that far up with fully charged batteries... hehe, not even at Yakutsk. No use, spoils your cells faster, etc... Gross overdriving is more for HIDs and incans. HIDs LOVE heat. (provided you don't care about longevity, but no issue of coz for flashaholics short playtimes).
I have to admit, i "only" have a IMAX B6 so i am limited to 1A. Mainly that is for recharging my Pb because the stock ones take too long....i wasn't too keen on iChargers as they are over 70 bucks and i don't do RC. It's bad for regular Pb (non fancy AGM or what fancy types) of course to do above 0.3C but heck they are so cheap (15 bucks for a 7.2AH and yes it's a fresh one with ~ that capacity). From what i see on hobby sites, most entry level models have NiMH and Pb modes...so below 3V discharge is not an issue. Most flashlights do go below 3V per cell esp for 2 x 18650 lights and they don't dim much, if you don't believe my few tens of flashlights, check out HKJ, he probably has EVERYTHING in the market. LOL!
PS. I know there are some which do specifically Li only...but RC do make use if NiMH as well. If you ask Lambda, NiMH is not inferior to Li-ion.
There were a couple of good guys, i think DasFriek, who tests and includes graphs as they can log....wonder where are they. Some good guys like Agenthex has left too!
Unless electrical physics has changed since I went to college, I think you mean two batteries in parrallel the amps from each cell will drop to 1/2 of the amps the LED pulls. Your example is for a constant current draw which works out as follows:
Ex. : Control 1 battery - 3V (I chose a round voltage for simplicity, think CR123) @3 amp
2 Batteries in series - 6V @ 3 amps each cell
2 Batteries in parrallel - 3V @ 1.5 amps each cell (3 amp total)
Now, you are correct if the you have a constant power draw by the LED. A series battery installation will give twice the voltage which would only require 1/2 the amperage to provide the same amount of power.