I can confirm the information in that cpf thread. Instead of resetting back to moon mode after x seconds, it always goes to the next mode, like an SK68, including strobe. I tried leaving the light off for as long as 2 minutes, and the driver still switched to the next mode.
The driver in the head no longer says Manker.
And by my eyeball visual estimates, the color temperature is cooler/bluer than my Convoy 4300-4500K XM-L2, I’m guessing 5000K compared to my BLF-348.
I don’t think these are actually best in class, but these are what I’d choose if I was running out the door, not sure what to expect. I really enjoy the versatility that right angle designs afford me. I have no problem using a right angled flashlight as a regular flashlight, although they do present minor challenges when using them in conjunction with a firearm.
AAA/10440 - Tank007 E09 - 3 modes, IPX-8, AAA and 10440 capable, durable construction, inexpensive. I added a pocket clip so that I can clip it to the front of my ball cap for impromptu handfree operation. I have yet to find an effective right angled AAA/10440 light.
AA/14500 - I’m liking my Skilhunt H15. Right Angled, useful modes, AA/14500 compatible, magnetic tail cap. I like that I can use AA’s in here in a pinch and get extra punch with a 14500. That weighs in very heavily into my choice. Downsides, it’s nearly as big as my Nitecore HC30 and doesn’t throw as far.
18650 - Nitecore HC30 - Like the H15, Right Angled head. Decent throw, good modes and compact size. Magnetic tail would be nice. Clip interferes with headlamp holder.
Honorable mention: AAA - Trusty Inova Xs and BLF 348. AA/14500 - Jetbeam JET-I MK, Nitecore MT10a. 18650 - Klarus AR10/Thrunite TN20 Adjustable head (rt angle for headlamp, adjustable for hands free), magnetic base. AR10 includes USB charging and electronic lockout.
I have a limited collection.
My only AAA: Atom AO titanium Nichia 219B. It is a mule with a low of .03 and a high of 30. Great for reading and has a magnet on the tail cap. The high really limits it and I never carry it exclusively.
18650: My newest purchase which is a Manker E14. It comes standard to fit a 18350. However, I have the longer tube to use 18650’s. It is the quad Nichia 5000k version with a TIR optic that gives a fantastic flood. I EDC it as a 18350 light but the few times I wanted longer runtimes I converted it up.
If I add a CR123A category: I love my brass Mini-ML-X from Foursevens. Very handy when on a neck lanyard.
Where did you buy yours from, EyeballFryer ?
I got mine from BG and no complaints… everything checks out. I just love the ultra-low level on mine (I bought 3).
It would be a real pity if they changed the driver and tint 
(btw… I really dislike that ‘next-mode-memory’ thing…)
The Manker U11 really is a great light, it has only one major flaw: besides the great moonlight mode the next low mode is much too bright, there is no real low mode. Even in pro mode you can’t correct that.
K.
I ordered my 2 A01s from banggood.com, from the China warehouse. I placed my order on Sept 28, received it in my mailbox yesterday (Saturday, Oct 08).
Something that I JUST discovered while answering your question: the middle mode, which is the “low” mode, has PWM. I can tell both by shining it at a fan, and by waving it back and forth. It’s not as high frequency as Convoy’s PWM, but not as low frequency as on my SK68 clones.
Strangely, the first mode - moonlight - does NOT have PWM.
[quote=EyeballFryer]
which of these two drivers do you have, that is showing PWM?
Also, I think you guessed the 5000k color of the new model, correctly 
I hope you dont mind that I add your PWM discovery to these other threads:
Astrolux-A01-different-versions
Review of Astrolux A01: Pics and Runtime
[QUOTE=“evgeniy”]received few A01.
Measured color temp:
Astrolux A01 1 (max.) : 5050 auto , 5000-5100 manual
Astrolux A01 2 (max.) : 5050 auto , 4800-4900 manual
Astrolux A01 3 (max.) : 4850 auto , 4800 manual.
sw50 LED instead of sw40 in early flashlights.[/QUOTE]
I’m certain my two latest A01s have the unlabeled drivers with the green ring (PCB?) showing, and they’re the ones showing the PWM. I’m certain my previous A01s have the Manker label on it.
I don’t mind that you add the discovery to the other thread.
I should have been a bit more accurate.
The Astrolux I mean is actually the BLF copper version. The aluminum ones are still very good (even with the new strange driver). I’ll give some purple ones away to my class of students. I like the really low mode.
I like the Ti Lumintop because it’s just plain beautiful. I know high mode is not top-notch but this kind of light is for in-home use where I don’t need max lumens.
I understand criticism on the S3 for it’s size. But please refer to a better (more lumens) and smaller 18400. Interested. CR123 favorite is the Olight S1 batton upto now. But I’m phasing out CR123.
Manker E14 is a nice gadget but came with 2 CREE’s and 2 Nichia’s. Get’s too hot. Hate the thing. And GB for that matter.
the Olight RC05 with 300 lumens seems brighter than the Manker E11 and equal to the Klarus Mi7 in a video on Youtube , more expensive but a magnetic charger and a good 14500 battery come with it , so Manker and Klarus dont tell the real lumens or Olight made an error with 300 lumens. Fenix RC05 Flashlight Review - YouTube
The Astrolux A01 is not as nice as an Olight i3s though (i.m.h.o.)
A01 starts at a near invisible firefly mode, which is useless most of the time.
It should start at low (normal) mode, like the i3s. Also the i3s moon mode is more useful than the A01 firefly mode.
My A01 does have that nice warm white Nichia though (and no visible PWM), whereas the i3s has a ugly greenish XP-G2.
I think in real life i would even prefer a 348 over the A01, because of that firefly 1st mode, although a 348 is quite tall and heavy at 23.2 grams.
(i3s is 12.3 grams, A01 is 16.6 grams)
Compared to the i3s the A01 is a little bulky.
The A01 head is big enough to fit a slim AA body.
it can not tail stand and has no clip.
I’m waiting for solder paste, i will replace that XP-G2 and have the best looking and working AAA EDC i can imagine.
Unfortunately i missed the Gearbest deal couple of weeks ago, i want to buy another i3s.
Because the down side of the i3s is the anodization, which wears off, but i love it in spotless purple, but only still available for 19.95 bucks at BG now…
…having said all that i just ordered a new purple i3s from Banggood…
(i must be nuts…)
AAA: Jetbeam Jet-u: small, very well made, cheap, very efficient with ~100 lumens.
AA/14500: Nitecore MT10a: modest price, well made, efficient, very bright.
18650: Sunwayman C23C: well made, excellent UI, well regulated at 600 lumens, modest price.
I dislike the Manker U11, mine arrived with chips, the UI is too complex, the charging cover gets in the way of my fingers, and the clip interferes with the tailcap. Nicely made, and good value. Efficient too. And well regulated.
what is “dragons-eye”?
How much were Manker U11 and Astrolux S3 on sale?
AAA: Ultratac K18
AA: Olight S1A
18650: Nitecore MH20
That’s my personal opinion
AAA: Astrolux A01 and BLF-348
AA: NiteCore LA10 CRI
18650: Manker MK34 with Nichia 219B (I have the M43 Meteor with Nichia 219B too, but I actually like the MK34 more)
18350: Astrolux S41 / Manker E14 with Nichia 219B
Yeah, I know, I love high CRI and Nichias…
Since everyone’s sharing, here’s my cherry-pick:
(to note, my collection is quite limited, so don’t expect too much)
AAA: Thrunite Ti3.
Why: Firefly first, great runtimes on the 2 lower modes, versatility, practically no size or weight, and mine is the rare example of an XP-G2 with an absolutely beautiful tint.
AA: Thrunite T10.
Why: Aimplicity and ease to use (only 3 modes that are easy to navigate thru), light weight, goes to firefly when first switched after turned on and ramps up from there, and pleasant beam pattern (very wide spill with large hotspot, almost like a TIR).
18650: Thrunite TN12 2014.
Why: Lovable mode distribution, just the right size to operate one-handed, serves as a self-defense tactical light in a desperate pinch.
Runner-ups:
AAA: Fenix E01.
Why: Legendary durability, exceptional runtime, can’t get any simpler than that.
Why not: No pocket clip. (Purple tint and ovoid beam don’t matter to me when I’m using an AAA, it’s my backup so I’m not gonna hunt white walls with it).
AA: Jetbeam BA20.
Why: Simple with only 2 modes, comfortable UI (head loose or tight for low or hi modes respectively), feels good in the hand.
Why not: Don’t have it anymore 
18650: Convoy C8 with OP reflector.
Why: Wonderful invisible PWM, beautiful beam pattern that allows it to be used at close range with no problems, nice feeling with just the perfect balance between heft and compact-ness.
Why not: Annoying UI switching (I use it a lot on Low, and have to mentally measure the seconds so as to not change mode groups) due to old firmware (I have a feeling that one with TK’s new firmware would shoot to the top of my list easily), clunky to pocket (don’t have the clip for it or the dosh to buy it), relatively short runtimes and no sub-lumen level.
I also have a few lights that are pure NOPE, but this is not the thread to post them.
AAA/10440 Olight i3s, everyday in my pocket.
Well, I’m glad to see we can all agree on the best lights. :person_facepalming:
It just goes to show, we all want different things.
May also depend on each persons experience with a particular light, having heard so many people singing the Astrolux A01’s praises I bought one … initially it wouldn’t turn on at all and now it turns on and changes mode only if it fees like it and is absolutely horrible to use and totally unreliable so would be described as teh worst AAA I’ve had.
In comparison my Tank 007 e09 and Ultratac K18 never miss a beat and the fact the Astrolux may have a slightly nicer tint becomes totally academic if you can’t switch it on when you need to.