Nitecore EC4 stand by current drain

I measure 350µA with fresh Sanyo 2600,or Keepower 3400.
I turned ON/Off the light a few times,still the same standby current.
If you trust your DMM,probably the flashlight is defective.

I have an idea how to add a physical switch to the tailcap,but I don’t know hard will be to do it.
What we need is to add a small metal membrane to the positive contact.
The metal button that is soldered there,should be removed.

It should be done similar to this in the MecArmy-
With tightening the tailcap the battery will press the membrane and will contact the tailcap board.

The Mec-Army is exactly like my CooYoo Quantum 10180!!

Here is what I mean.

Dagnabbit.

I missed this when I bought an EC4 online, rec’d it just today

And the light came with the warranty card blank, too — the one that says to make sure your reseller or retailer stamps it and fills it out.

Oh, joy ….

Has this modification of the tailcap worked out to eliminate the passive drain?

Does this advice also describe how the EC4 works, anyone know for sure?

With a multiple-cell light, that much passive drain is asking for trouble as cells get older.
Not to mention this light can be used with four primary CR123s.

Does EC4 mean IED in any known language?

You could replace the spring with a brass post, i did a lockout mod for the EA4 Nitecore EA4 Triple Nichia 219C & Tailcap Lockout

! !

> mod
As pictured earlier in the thread?
Or do you have a pointer to pictures/description of what you did?
Not sure I understand it from just the words.

EDIT, ah, now I can see the picture. Okay.

Hm, I recall a cautionary thought in another thread here a while back — that using protected cells isn’t necessarily protection against passive drain.
Explanation was that in normal use cell voltage does sag and the protection circuits are built with that in mind, so they trigger when the cell in normal use gets pulled down to the cutoff.
But in the relatively low drain from a circuit just sitting there, the cell can go below where it should cut off.

Anyone know any more about that, in particular about the Nitecore?

I somehow missed the passive drain problem when I saw one for sale recently and bought it. Only 2-cell light I own, and I don’t trust it now.

I am using protected cells in it. But if my memory is correct that’s not adequate protection in this configuration.

And I can’t “lock out” the tailcap with the usual quarter turn either.

I guess removing a spring and soldering in a brass bump is the answer.

Bye-bye warranty (sigh).

Then again, I don’t even know if I bought it from an “authorized dealer” — trying to find that list so I’ll know if Nitecore warranties it or not.

I gave up on my EC4 and gave it away with the warning to store the batteries outside of the light until needed for use. Another feature I did not like was if using protected batteries, a lock out at the tail cap has the tail cap just falling off.

I liked the idea of a two side by side 18650 batteries, and bought the Fenix TK35UE with the Cree MT-G2 on closeout from Fenix. If this is the kind of light you like, Fenix did a good job.

As a side note, since purchasing the Convoy L6 this has become the flashlight I am constantly using. The other light I tend to choose for in house use is the Fenix PD40. I am in a part of my life where having less seems to bring me more satisfaction than collecting; this is an acquired taste. :slight_smile:

I found I had a spare tailcap button — one without the little bump inside — and that drops nicely into the tube and prevents the tailcap spring from connecting.

Bother. But at least it breaks the circuit.

+1

Nice fix!

I ordered the light as well at banggood but the parasitic drain problem is not that bad, just use protected cells and remove the batteries if you are not using it for months. I only use protected 18650s in my lights. I have the LG HG2 just for comparision

My EC4 has stand by drain current 290uA. I’m OK with this.
I left batteries (NCR18650B protected) inside EC4 for stand by Flashlight.
I think that’s good for my batteries instead of let they always have full capacity.

Just got the EC4 today and ordered another one 10 minutes ago because I liked the first one, oh well. With the light in the lockout mode is the still drain or only when not locked out. Using the code it’s only $30, EC4.

There’s no lockout by just turning the knob on the stock light. The springs stay in contact until the tailcap comes off.
The suggestions above are for replacing the spring on the tailcap with a shorter piece of metal that will be easier to disconnect.

Was talking about locking the light by pressing both buttons for over over one second to lock the light.

> pressing both buttons
That just keeps a single button-press from waking it up — but it’s stilll watching the buttons, because you reactivate them also by pressing both of them simultaneously again.

I understand “lockout” to mean unscrewing the tail cap partway — until there’s no electrical circuit.

OK hank, thanks. Always thought that when a side switch light was locked or put to sleep it reduced or stopped the parasitic drain.

Is the ATR really working? Some reviews I’ve read show EC4 has stable output on turbo.
Or it is too late to kicks in?

I tested this in my EA45S a week or two ago. I got the same parasitic drain whether the light was locked out or not; this type of lockout just prevents most accidental activation.

Review1

Review2

For me This light is the 1st ( if the price is $30 :wink: )