Review: Olight X7 Marauder

Will do, I’m kind of wondering if those Olight cells aren’t rewrapped LG MJ1s. Maybe after a few runs on turbo there’s not enough power to push it back to turbo S. From what I’ve read, the 30qs will still push back to turbo s after being drained halfway.

Great review as always JM. :slight_smile:

I’ve seen that ripple dome on an XHP50 but not on a 70.

Looks like a nice light, you think they would use non protected cells and have a low voltage cutoff on the main board instead.

I am having the same exact problem with the Olight cells. Actually, I am also having a similar problem with the Sanyo 18650GA’s (unprotected, button top). I have the Samsung 30Q’s which never give me any problem with the Olight X7 - so I am really confused about what is going on. Btw - great review !!

There is a protection built inside the light that reduces output from Turbo S to regular turbo or high if the batteries are not capable isn’t there? Does this mean the light measures voltage under Turbo S load? 30Q (15+A) has less voltage sag compared to GA or 35E (Olight’s cell according to Maukka IIRC), both rated for around 10A. Although these cells should be adequate for 9000 lumens of the X7, perhaps these cells trigger the X7’s safety feature, which is not triggered by the 30Q? So the safety is too sensitive, and it’s voltage setting should be lower (which can’t be done by user)?

lg mj1’s button tops are what i’m using, of course they weren’t working at first because one of the cells were low, so i went ahead and ordered the recommended olights. after i saw they were shipped it dawned on me to check the voltage. i charged them all up and theyve worked fine in my x7 ever since.

I’m starting to see issues with the thermal sensor now or at least that’s what I’m thinking while running my 25R cells. When cool it is running on Turbo S for 30 seconds before stepping down. Keep triggering TUrbo S and the time gets shorter and shorter very fast. With the light only just starting to get warm to the touch it is dropping out of Turbo S between 2 seconds and a half second. Let it sit for a while to cool more and it runs in Turbo S for up to less than 30s again. Very repeatable. Cells are fully charged.

I have some brand new 30Q flat tops I just got a couple weeks ago. I’m going to add solder buttons to them and try them tonight to see if they perform better. There is a chance that the cells are dropping in ability but I highly doubt it. 10A cells should have no issues at all with this light and my 25R can maintain 15-20A. THey are more than a year old so they may be tired. Testing with the new 30Q cells will answer for sure.

I got 4 button top VTC6s in today, I’ll try them tonight and see how it performs.

These 30q button tops should be perfect. Very interesting people are having problems with 10 amp rated cells. Such as mj1, ga and 35e.

4PCS Samsung INR18650-30Q 3000mAh Unprotected Button Top 18650 Battery
https://banggood.app.link/vwgGguthVx

I will note that my light wouldn’t go into turbo s but for about 2 seconds and then it would switch back to turbo. The light wasn’t even on at all prior to me picking it up and putting it on turbo and then trying turbo s. I took the cells out and all 4 of them (LG MJ1s) were at 4.17v. After putting the VTC6s in this evening and running it on turbo s I haven’t been able to recreate the issue…which is a good thing.

Could you please let me know where to purchase button top VTC6? thanks!

Only from the best flashlight fanatic store in the US mtnelectronics.com

How could I forget mtn :confounded: :person_facepalming: Thanks!!

Thanks for the great review!!

I also had some weird things happen with Turbo S some time ago. After testing some protected Keeppower batteries with Turbo S mode (which worked fine) the 9000 lumen mode stopped working altogether. First double click activated Turbo, but the second didn’t increase the output at all.

This happened with all of my batteries even though the batteries were full and the light had cooled down after the test. After a couple of minutes though, it worked just like before. Never happened before after countless of runtime tests on Turbo S. This hasn’t happened again either.

The little advisory card mentions when using ‘other batteries’ that if turbo S cuts out to remove the cells for more than 3 minutes to regain turbo S.

Some kind of voltage monitoring that disables turbo S when the cells aren’t quite up to par?

Interesting, you got a different version of the tail cap protection, here is mine :
,

That smaller screw, while inline with where the thermal sensor is located underneath, does not actually connect to the thermal sensor.

Update 20161107:

Olight sent me a set of replacement cells for the X7 and with them the light functions perfectly. Tested it with my new 30Q and it worked great. Popped in the new cells from Olight and it worked great. Popped in the original cells that came with it and it won’t stay in Turbo S. Definitely an issue with the cells and not the light itself. Per Olight’s request I am shipping the old cells back to Olight for testing.

Thanks a lot for the update. This was bugging me for some time now; I just want to know what the problem was… Such a shame for Olight, as they try to make life easier for many customers by offering off the shelf cells (ok, and making some profit as well), but it all backfired…