SBT-70 emitters have a perfectly round hotspot…my idea SBT-70 emitter would be in a really good zoomie host…no square when zoomed in.
Big, expensive and not all that efficient, but hey, the die is round so in an aspheric the spot is round! :party:
They’re also pricey. Discontinued now and difficult to find, they were around $70 per emitter. They have a beautiful bridgework of bondwires that is unprecedented in the emitter world, I like em for all these reasons as well as the unique High CRI Daylight white tint that was once available.
This is as seen in my Jaxman Z1
Oh yeah, they come with an AR coated thin glass window pane on a silver metal frame that sits flat, rather than a dome. I like removing this pane for better output. The one in the picture above has the frame and glass pane removed.
Thanks people .
And another question … If i have an emitter with a fairly high Vf and a fet driver , using 2 or 3 batteries (edit :in parallel ofcourse) will make any change ?
With the proper Buck driver, yes. An XP-G2 can’t pull high amps from a single cell, but with 2 cells and a Buck it can easily do 5.5A or a bit more for some 1100 lumens. The tight beam from a de-domed one is the preference here, in a large reflector or aspheric, for throw.
Answer to the parallel question: yes. If the delivered current per battery is halved, the battery is at a higher voltage. With more voltage, the current goes up until there is new new balance.
Thanks again Dale and Jos for your answers .
Losing it. Totally overlooked the parallel part of that. Ugh.
The Courui D01 is one example where multiple parallel cells really helps overall. With a large diameter reflector it’s easy to put a de-domed XP-G2 in there for some really sweet beam profile action.
It was an edit , no worries
Sometimes hot rods aren’t cool…
10,789 lumens Meteor, accidentally activated. Took only seconds to have smoke billowing off my hip after I fastened my seat belt in the car…
Edit: Yes, the flashaholic in me wanted to know why the burns weren’t uniform… the part that isn’t so scorched had the paracord lanyard across the top of the light, it’s fused together in that place. 
Welcome to the club Dale, mine tho doesn’t look so bad.
From when the wife first pointed it out til I could get the seatbelt off and the light out, it advanced to making a LOT of smoke, was scared it was about to burst in flames. And this, in our new Toyota Camry. Ugh.
I’m working on fixing it, will be going for a few thousand more lumens by the end of the week if all goes well. 
Continued the F13 MT-G2 build. Opened the reflector hole to fit the big led, machined a 6mm thick copper to put under the led shelf for better heat sinking. And glued it in also as the led.
That smoke sure added to the fear factor, mine also started smoking after few seconds but i had chance to react much faster.
I would like to see that, i was thinking about swapping the leds with XPL HI’s but it is a bit pricey to source 12 of them and i don’t know if there will be much improvement over stock without modifying the driver.
Finally found some time to reply
ordered 40mm, 42mm and 43mm, will see how they fit in a month when they arrive.
I have this in different thicknesses, ordered here
but as it turns out my stack and solder skills are not producing satisfactory results, even with my limited tools I can file down to dimensions everything until I am satisfied but when I solder that sandwich something always moves and I end up with ugly looking part with which I am disappointed and that would only be soldering MCPCB and those copper heat sinks, If I add LED and try to solder those 3 parts together that can only end up in disaster.
I could find someone with workshop and proper tools to fabricate me a jig which I could use to align and press all parts together but that would not be cheap thing.
For example guy that made me copper spacers for making S2+ triple aldo fabricated alignment pin that I use to properly solder pill + spacer + noctigon triple board…
There is also a possibility to cut a ring out of the thicker tracing paper and sandwich it between the bezel and glass, I saw that Nitecore is doing this on some models (they use plastic sheet ).
Anyway, thanks for suggestions, I ordered those from ebay, hope they will do the job.
S. Today I made my first lighted tailcap, used blue leds, stock driver on new C8, works well, I am happy haw it turned up 
Nothing yet but have 4 to change over to 22awg wiring. It arrived today. Curious about any current changes, even a slight one.
Eagle eye X7 with xhp50, a ledil iris optic, and a FET driver with tweaked Minidrv. Still not thrilled with the beam pattern but there is no donut. Just realized it is my largest light to date. It may be time to build something much larger.
If the X7 is your largest, you are past due for a monster
L6 would blow him away, huh?
Convoy S2+ , 1.5a buck driver, Lite-On 365nm UV led (LTPL-C034UVH365)
Restroom at work
