fritz15 - Machine Made - Last UPDATE 10/31

I think fritz said earlier, those vias were put there so that he could have access to program the MCU from the bottom of the board, while installed in a light.

Edit: He said above that it will be Attiny45V MCU. I don’t understand the pinout either. :stuck_out_tongue:

Tyou very much for your input!

No, it should be for an Attiny25V, but maybe I messed totally up. Pin 1 is upper left Reset, Pin 2 is the switch signal input, Pin 3 measures VCC directly with the internal voltage reference, Pin 4 GND, Pin 5 controls two AMC7135 so I can adjust the output current, Pin 6 controls 9 AMC7135s, Pin 7 controls one AMC7135 for moonlight and Pin 8 is VCC. Did I mess up really badly?

I will use the internal voltage reference.

Ouch, I didn’t think about that. I just thought about the Off time capacitor and thought ‘I don’t need that’ since I’ll just use a momentary switch. Do I need an input capacitor or can I just drop that like the output capacitor?

Hm, I actually didn’t want to bridge the spring for aesthetic reasons. According to djozz spring test I’d loose around 100mV on both springs together and I can live with that. Mostly it’ll be 700mA anyway.

L- is pretty big, but does that have any disadvantages? I just thought since I have the space, why not make it comfortable to solder. It’s 2mm in diamter (0.08”).

And yes, all the vias which are connected to nothing but pins are indeed to flash the MCU without having to remove the driver.
I tried to explain it at the end of this post.

You did and I promptly forgot about it. I think input capacitance is kind of important though but you’d have to ask in the Attiny 25/45/85 developement thread to get more reliable knowledge.

Looking good, nice build.

So, this will be the last part of my build :slight_smile: Thanks to everyone for making this year’s contest as amazing as the last ones and it was a great feeling being part of all of this as well! :slight_smile:

Let’s go!

In September I was just curious and took one of the tactile switches I had apart:

I noticed the small spring-plate which was inside the switch:

And decided instead of using the whole switch I would just use the small metall spring. This reduces the amount of parts and consequently eliminates something which could break. Now the switch is nearly indestructable.

The driver boards arrived:

as well as the switchboards:

Here a picture of the small metal spring on the switch:

Unfortunately I messed something up in eagle so the bare copper was a little bit too small. But I just scraped the purple stuff away a little and now it works great.
Next, everything had to be soldered in place and to warm up I started with the switchboard:

Now to the real challenge, the driver. I did not have my usual equipment, just a huge soldering iron and the tweezers of a swiss army knife :smiley: :

After seeing how tiny the schottky diode was I honestly doubted that I would manage to solder the stuff on… Anyway, I used an old crocodile clamp to keep the part in place and then tried to carefully add solder and heat:

And it kind of worked:

Next by far the smallest part:

And some adventurous construction to keep the Attiny25V in place:

Not pretty, but at least the hardest part was done:

The AMC7135 were easy compared to the other stuff :smiley: :

And the back side is nearly done as well:

Finally, my first homemade driver:

So unfortunately the IC-connectors I intended to use had a different diameter than specified in the datasheet, so I could not use those. I ordered some for replacement but they did not arrive in time.

I will continue with the next post in a moment :slight_smile:

Looking real good :slight_smile:

Let us continue :slight_smile:

Here the LED together with the programmed driver:

I ended up using a XP-L for maximal output and a nice floody beam.

Two silicone wires soldered to the led:

Some heat paste and a thin protector for the LED:

And now …

… I failed miserably.

Who can see it?

Exactly, there is a huge gap between bezel and the head due to a wrong drawing. Well, no precision in the world can help when I am unable to draw the correct dimensions :person_facepalming:
Anyway, now thinking about it, I don’t know if I mind that much since it could be a great way to install a clip. But yeah, you also see, the driver is soldered in place.

Here a shot from the front:

And the inside with the positive battery contact:

Well, now I am officially done so here are a few outdoor shots at the beautiful Danish sand dunes (without gap haha) :slight_smile:

Well done fritz. From start to finish you have shown an amazing build. :+1:
I’m not quite happy with one aspect though. We all need to see some more glamour shots of the finished light. :stuck_out_tongue:

Wow. That was super quick. By the time I posted they were there. Thanks heaps.

Stunning. Beautiful work!

Very nice :+1:

Purdy :heart_eyes:

Looks great and those are some beautiful pictures. Where were those taken?

great work I like

Well done, another nice finish! :beer:

Any beamshots?

great work! :+1:

Fantastic work! One of the nicest light I’ve seen :slight_smile:

Fantastic job there, everything is so tidy and perfectly soothed !
Even the last pics are so beautiful, the massive clouds sure give an ominous feeling !