Yea to much damn talking lol just skip I compare it the thorfire s70 and niwalker 25mb in the ceiling bounce test. It’s bright. At start up its over 9000 lumens hahaha over 9000 
Those two red double o-rings look badass. The light is just so much thicker than the MM25MB…
Now i feel refreshed was to hot last night to sleep.
Yea heaps heavier then the 25MB but doesn’t step down like the 25MB i should also mention that 60 lux =1000 lumens on that ceiling bounce so start up the MT03 could be 10k lumens. Just how close it is i am not sure. But it is double the the S70 in brightness and not even double the price so its great value. I think every one will be happy with it i will throw it on the scale once i finish my midday breakfast lol
Comparing to the S70 ~3500lm (high side estimate) it would appear the MT03 is ‘only’ around 7000lm?
The cells were fully charged in the S70?
The MM25MB is a bit of an unknown as to its actual output.
Interested to see what others find.
nah no way my S70 is way brighter then that 4500+ lumens its running 6amps. It has to be over 4000 lumens seeing as Cree rates the XHP70 to run at 4.8amps
There’s losses out the front and inefficiencies in the driver. Unless your S70 is modified it should be well under 4000lm.
Take Djozz’s LED testing for reference, at 6A to the emitter an XHP-70 N2 on DTP copper emits about 4200lm. Subtract about 20% loss for a very rough OTF lumen estimate.
Thanks for the review. Are there any dark spot in the beam? From you video it looks like a really nice flood light.
It looks like Haikelite updated their website on the MT03. 8760 Lumens CW and 7560 NW 5000K CRI80.
I just can’t decide if I should get the MT03 or MT07. I already have a TN36 so, I might get the MT07 instead of the MT03.
I am not sure people on here tested the amperage using a light a box and got 4200 lumens at 5 amps binning comes into play also.
Hey mate nah no dark spots. Yea i would be guessing it would be around 9000 lumens once it settles its just 200 lumens under so not bad that could also be the light box. But they did get it professionally tested. Id say buy the one that you will actually use the most?
Led reference. All kinds of great data.
Thanks for the review…
It’s not so clear in the video. Can you post some pics by camera?
Some updated pics lads I will try and get some beam shot at a park but i am having a busy week.
That thing is a monster. The head only weighs more than a M43… Looking forward to your real review of this light 
What is the throw figure for this light? I’m guessing around 20-30kcd?
Updated!
Is that driver from the 2S2P model? There is a buck converter in there (Chip marked LEDA 1624). The buck converter can easily take 4S cells, but I don't know about the rest of the driver. Would be nice to know if both models have the same driver. Or more importantly, if the 2S2P model can be converted to 4S without a driver swap.
Hey mate yea it reads 8 volts when the battery pack when out of the light. I am turning this into a mod thread i will play with the driver soon. I wouldn’t mind to bump the power a little. Maybe the driver is the same but you would need to change the battery holder around to a series config. Easy enough.
waiting on the MT-G2 version
don’t need the total top end but would like to see a long running 3k lumen mark break with MT-G2 cells
Cool. Best wishes on the mods. I'm sure you have this covered, but I would do the following if I were to test the driver for 4S compatibility. I'm not an expert in electronics, but this approach works well for me.
- Remove one of the R100 resistors from each of the 3 output channels.
- Chances are too much current will flow with double the voltage.
- Connect the driver input to a bench top power supply so that you can gradually increase voltage. Connect the output for one emitter to ammeter so that you can monitor current output.
- Start at 8.4v (equal to 2S) and go into one of the lower regulated modes.
- Increase voltage. If output starts going up, you need more resistance on the voltage output sensor banks.
The goal is to have increased output in the highest mode, but unchanged output in the lower modes. If you increase output in the lower modes, that is a sign the inductors are getting over saturated. Which is not good for buck regulation.
Nice light ! I understood that you want to mode it and the steps recommended by "ImA4Wheelr" are very pertinent and , most of all , electronic correct . The saturation of the magnetic core of the coil will generate also a lot of heat . The solution is to solder a bigger one (hard to do ) or to DIY one from a toroidal core , in the old fashioned way , by winding and measure the inductance.., let's hope that will not be the case !
Second thing that I want to suggest is to change the electrolitic capacitor (big black cilinder) with a SMD tipe with the voltage bigger than the maximum Vin from the batteries (at least X 1.5 ) . From my experience this capacitor is the bottle neck of ALL drivers that has something like this , the temperature is increasing their capacitive reactance and in time the luminous flux will decrease dramatic , as the temperature is the capacitors worst enemy. The SMD ones are less sensitive, better quality and stability in time .
The value is not critical , I used in my modding and repairs values from 22 to 100 micro farads with no problems.
Hope that this was helpful ! Cheers !
I just got this light, did a spring bypass, dedomed emitters, how could I make it direct drive?