Convoy L2/L6 modding thread

Have you seen any pictures or videos of a light with a similar hot spot size? I was surprised by how usable the Acebeam K70 beam appeared. It got me thinking a max thrower is not so bad.

I don’t know about video but there are some beam shots of it in the L2 thread.

I can try to find them later unless Dale has them handy… He built it. :laughing: :+1:

It’s the one with the copper ring spacer between the head and bezel. Pictured right here in the OP. :slight_smile:

With a hard pushed de-domed XP-G2 the hot spot is really tight and the spill is really dim. Most of the ~1100 lumens is going downrange. As such, it’s not great for walking because the hot spot is about 8” around in front of you and the spill is really insufficient to illuminate the surroundings. That’s where the “pencil beam” effect causes a gap in real world usage. It’s doable, but not preferable.

This is an outstanding thread with good information; my appreciation to everyone. :slight_smile:

I’ve got plenty of walking lights, I just wanted to make sure that the hotspot at 300 feet wasnt so small that you can’t tell a tree from a bush. When it’s too laser like, well, it’s like a laser. You can’t tell what it’s illuminating. :slight_smile:

I took up to much space here. I’ll do some more reading in the forums. Thanks

I still remember a great C8 Mitko made using xp-g2 s2 2b , about a year ago , using fet driver and single cell, running @ 5.5amps for ~175kcd .

Higher binned xp-g2 s4 2b (old production) needs less current (4.3-4.5) to achieve a better result in the same host (around 192kcd). I have some of the old s4 leds running @ 4.3amps (single cell) without an issue .

I’m using C8 because i know the numbers for sure.

My most useful thrower currently is a L2 with XP-L V6 1A dedomed and FET+1 driver. It pulls almost 6 amperes of a single fresh Liitokala 5200 for 280 kCd and 1400 lumens. The light is very handy with its short tube, the spot has a reasonable size and runtime is suffizient.
The only thing I miss is a reverse clicky, haven’t found any yet in the size needed.

Huh? I’m using a little omten 1288 in mine, it works great. I don’t remember having to do anything special to make it fit.

I use the little Omten in virtually everything. even if you have to Make it work, it’s worth it. JB Weld Water Weld. About 4 minutes. :slight_smile: You can make spacers, adapters, or just plain glue it in.

Omten 1288 (left) and switch in my L2 (right):

I thought about gluing something on top of the switch but feared it would break.

Not gluing something, just glue. Hot glue to be exact. Works great.

With a hot melt-gun? I’ll give it a try …

Scuff up the top of the switch some, hold the glue/iron on it for a second, pull the iron away leaving a little ball of glue, wait for it to cool a couple seconds, then just before it gets hard shape it into a post with a flat top.

Only , V6 1A at 6 amps is arround 1900 lumens, there isnt practicaly ANy light loss caused by dedoming, when i first tested it i had to redo the test 3 times to believe it, cant explain it yet its true…i think other here tested it with same results

Not to mention that L2/W2 1A gives 1870 lumens OFT and nearly 2k lumens ” in the box” at 6 amps, there are some 6.5 amps yet they are rare
Those new W2/3 binned ones are kinda close to the new XPL2, they have lower Vf, made a C8 recently with W2 1A and even at 3.3 amp battery it gives 2.8 amps and 110k cds

ABout XHP35…well tested a dedomed E2 1A in L2 at 3 amp single mode buck driver yet the results aint that good, like 2700 lumens, nearly the same cds as V6/W2 yet tremendous ammount of heat coming from the body
I dont think this setup will be long lasting, especialy with warmer HI tints

Lumens might be more, I do my lumen measurements in an improvized “guest bathroom integrating sphere”. Readings seem a bit low generally, and probably even lower with throwers.

I also took some measurements of the L6 lens, although I don’t have any other L6 compatible lenses to compare it with. The light is stock and from the first batch with a cool white (6000K) emitter. I did my lux measurements from 50 cm away on the mid mode to keep the output as constant as possible.

On average, the lens reduces output about 5 percent and makes the light appear a tiny bit more cooler (6002/6001 K vs. 6054/6034 K) and greener (deviation of 0.0018 towards green away from the black body radiator line). It has a negligible effect on CRI: –1 point on most methods but –5 on the CRI (R9). Visually the difference is just about visible (delta e CIE94 1.99).

With lens

Without lens

Lens vs. bare difference

Since the spectrum is kind of spiky on the low CRI XHP70, I also put the lens in front of a high CRI 219B light (Astrolux S41). The loss of light is more pronounced on the higher wavelengths which explains the tiny loss of fidelity in red (R9) and the tint shift towards green. Keep in mind that the shifts are very minimal.

Since it’s a L2 mod thread here i have to ask :

Are there any buck drivers for L2 capable for resistor mod (that can deliver 4.5+ amps without any issue after).
I’m aware of Mtn buck drivers ofcourse , but I’m searching something cheaper if available.

I think this is about the best we can hope for with the XHP35; similar lux to top bin XPL but with nearly 50% more lumens.

XHP35 is a bigger (brighter) beam and this is comparing the TK61V4vn to the TN42 CW and NW…cd being almost equal…… :wink:

Plus you can get the XHP35 is warmer tints then a W2. I don’t know about others but I find a neatural tint / high CRI thrower to be FAR superior to a cool white thrower eve if the technical numbers are lower. The extra contrast allows me to see further with the warmer tint.