Mine sticks very well to side of refrigerator or the door of my F150 truck. Your car may have some non ferrous alloy mixed in the steel. The new Ford F150’s are aluminum bodies, so no magnet will stick to them.
There are two ways to lock out the light. One is, when light is off, hold the button down for 1.5 seconds. The light will turn on for a second then shut off. It is now locked out, but the location beacon is on. (red light on button flashes). Click again to shut off location beacon. (this info is in manual). Second way to lock out is loosen the tail cap a quarter turn or less.
Petrol? My mate has a Falcon Tickford 302 Windsor.
Id love a raptor if i lived in America the car is to big for here. Nice truck The F150 are the most sold cars in the USA. I was looking at the new Nissan the ones with the Cummins engines they look cool.
Yes, the 5 liter V8 is gasoline. 4 x 4, 380hp 385 ft lbs torque. The Raptors are 485 hp, but $50,000us. You can buy the Ford Supercharger kit for the 5 liter for $4000 and get over 600hp. Mine is stock and has more than enough power for me. The old 302 Windor engines were great. So were the 351’s. All of Fords engines are overhead cam engines now. They completely did away with the old push-rod type engines. Yeah, the F150 is the most sold vehicle of all time in the US. Still is today.
No, it really is due to the thickness of the steel and/or the strength of the magnet. Normal amounts of alloying elements added to steel will not change the magnetic properties much. The magnetic flux and the thickness of the steel are much more significant factors. I’m somewhat of a flashlight noob, but I’m well versed in physics and engineering.
I don’t like having to “unlock” a light for normal use each and every time I take it out of my pocket. Lock out is good for when I want to store a light, or when I want to throw it in a bag where it will likely be bumped around. IMO a recessed button does not negatively effect the usability of the light at all (well, maybe if you are wearing thick gloves?) but it does create the possibility for the light to be activated accidentally.
I managed to take the light apart its is glued, but with some heat and not much force it gets loose
Unfortinually I slipped off the head and my F version is now missing the external TIR lens as it broke the plastic joint
Probably its better to bend the side with the switch with some spacer and opposite side to hold the head, not like I did the side with the lens and TIR optic mounted
Or remove the external TIR optic whith its base
For my nitecore P12 I used way more force and heat but it resisted to get opened
Not much to see on the circuit board a lot small resistors and the ICs are fixed with some non transparent glue
I did a spring bypass, if you want pictures I will make some
Please let us know if you try a Nichai under that TIR… I know that it may not be nice to mix 3535 footprint with TIR, at least that’s what happen with Olight TIRs.
I swapped mine with a spare XM-L2 (T4-7A) to make it better, will swap again when I receive my T5-5D1 80+ CRI.
Glad you like it. The only issue I have is if wear a hat fishing. The TIR optics will go to waste if I wear the hat lol not really an issue but I do usually wear a hat while fishing. The beam is so wide its awesome. You can leave the light in any position and it will give enough light up or down without having to tilt.
Put it into headlamp mode tonight, by using a H02 Headband, It was a loose fit, but worked great with the clip left on the light. And was easier to install and remove from the head band.