Review of DP50V5A & DPS3012 bench top power supply modules, best bang for the buck around!

That is not possible with the DPS series. It only have a single output and it is the adjustable output.

If you want some fixed voltage outputs as well I recommend putting a gutted ATX power supply into the box and tapping into the rains on it for those. Although that won’t get you a 24V line but 3.3v, 5v and 12v will be taken care of. You will also have a lot of power ability on those as well.

Thank’s for the fast response. I thought about that but i don’t have enough room for that approach.
I was hoping for a suggestion of some methods to tap into the 60v supply before the DPS5015.
i did find these but not sure if they will do the job.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200W-15A-Voltage-Power-Buck-Converter-Step-Down-Module-DC-DC-8-60V-TO-1-36V-ZP-/122087936223?hash=item1c6d0210df:g:Uw4AAOSwgZ1Xs1zl

http://www.ebay.com/itm/282234704113

Those buck modules will do what you want with fixed voltages. Although they are quite noisy and iffy quality.

Honestly I have one of mine built into an ATX power supply and I have used the direct power from the ATX rails all of one time. I simply find it far easier to use the DPS over those fixed rails. If nothing else the information on the meters showing me the current and voltage is immensely useful.

Personally I would simply invest in another DP or DPS unit and mount it in the same box (the smaller units only have the screen with no external PCB and are cheaper).

This would be a much more useful option IMHO. This is also why I have 2 units myself. It is simply much more useful for me.

Although with a 60V input (it should be adjustable to some degree with that pot on the end of the terminals, might turn it down to ~55v just to give a bit more wiggle room for surges) you will need to make sure that the second unit you get is able to handle the full input voltage, unless you use anther buck converter to first drop the voltage and then feed that into the DPS. That seems a bit overkill though.

robnrie I like your power supply build!

Are you needing fixed voltages to be used along with DPS (say 26v and 12v at same time), or do you only need the voltage sources singularly?

If only using one voltage source at a time, then why not set (3.3, 5, 12, 24v) as M1,M2,M3 and M4 then they will be available with a couple of button strokes.

DPS Manual instructions for memory groups :
(M0-M9 ten groups data group)
M0 group is the boot default data group. When you extract the data group you need, this data group will cover M0 data group and be automatically stored on M0 data group.
(Extract Shortcut storage data group M1 or M2)
On the main interface, keep pressing V/↑or A/↓ more than 2s, you can extract Shortcut storage data group M1 or M2 quickly. In the same time the corresponding data group number will displayed on the right of the screen.
(Extract the specified data group)
On the main interface, keep pressing SET key more than 2s, the sequence number of data group will be displayed on the right of the screen, you can turn coding potentiometer to choose data group you need. And then press shortly SET key, you can extract the specified data group you need.

Thanks for your suggestion i did think about that with the dps or dp but when i am doing any experiments i wanted to have the ability to supply fixed sources at the same time.
but you are right that the quality of the dp or dps is much better and would only need 1 to bring it down to the 24v then regulate the others from that or get a larger housing and gut a power supply.
as for the adjusting i already turned it down to 55v wich gave me almost the 15A for this unit.

No i was hoping to use at the same time

I put mine on the lowest setting it would go, I think 0.04A or so as I recall. Touched two aligator leads to an xml-2 star. I don't remember now but the Vf was impressively low, maybe less than 2V even, but the led was clearly lit. But it would pulse about once every second, steady, and a then a quick brighter blip. I don't know maybe it's ready my ekg or something, lol. I wouldn't expect a high dollar bench supply to do that, but that's not really a criticism. It's doing great as a hobby supply and this was pushing its limit clearly.

At the extreme ends of the working range it is not the most precice device but then you don’t use your DMM set to 10A range when measuring micro-amps. So using a 15A power supply is sort of like that.

My smaller 5A unit is a lot more stable at lower voltages/currents when you get down to the milli/microamp area. It says it should be in the data sheet as well.

I have the DPS3003 and it’s great for small arduino stuff and LEDs, the display is accurate but I’ve never seen anyone scope the output and comprehensively test the thermals and output capabilities.

A decent buck/boost will be very popular

My only niggle is that the encoder knob is quite small, but it’s a very small unit so what can you expect.

HKJ did a test of the larger DPS5015 recently. It is posted in this same section i think. Basically for the price it came out very impressive.

Some ripple in the output as would be expected for a unit this cheap but far far better then most units even 2-3x the price.

It also easily matched/handled the specs it said it would for extended periods of time.

My niggle on the 5015 isn't the size but that's it one knob with a funny push-to-select-digit interface and an enable timeout, instead of classic 4 knobs V/A course/fine. But yeah... that's all money and space. The auto-lockout can be considered a feature too.

I agree, my only real complaint is I wish it had 2 knobs always “attached” to volts and amps.

I had a user PM me about one of these units and over the course of his investigation he was told by RD how to calibrate these units.

Good thing to know.

Any power supply with an output of less then 60V will work fine, it naturally needs to handle the wattage you plan on using as well.

I use a 48V 480W power supply with mine.

To be clear, any power supply with an output a couple volts higher than what you want out of the 5015 will work. In other words, if you don’t need more than (say) 15 volts, you could use a 24 volt supply. This is cool because old computer power supplies are often scroungable for a little bit of effort. So you can save up for that nice 48 Volt supply you have your eyes on.

Correct, it needs a few volts of overhead for the buck to operate.

Although most computer power supplies around here are 12V, servers have 24 and 48V supplies though. I am using the DELL server power supply posted either earlier in this thread or the other thread on the dps5015.

I do not think that RD Tech reads this board anymore, I doubt that you will get a reply anytime soon.

You could send a message to them on aliexpress and they should reply.

For the price the DPS series can not be beat, naturally for more money there are better options.

I will say that while I like the 5015 unless you need the 50V and 15A capability it does have more ripple voltage then my older 3012 and my 5A version has basically zero ripple (around 10mv IIRC). For most things 30v and 12A is more then enough, heck the 30V 5A version is even more compact and enough for a lot of things, although not enough to really test LED’s now days.

Here is the Design for the Acrylic case I made in case anyone wants to make one. It is cut out with a laser cutter from standard hardware store .08” acrylic sheet (“plexiglass”). Thicker acrylic would be stronger but costs a lot more and is much harder to find.

Proper acrylic glue will be stronger and look better but hot glue or super glue works just fine as well.

Which power supply is best to use with DSP5015?
AC 110V/220V TO DC48V 8.3A 400W Regulated Transformer Power Supply For LED Strip or
AC 110V/220V TO DC 48V 400W 8.3A Single Output Regulated Switching Power Supply

It´s almost the same price.