Lightroom is nice, I like it’s auto correct features, it does more without user input.
DXO is a more “high end” program. It doesn’t babysit you are much but it has some amazing tools that can make your jaw drop. The noise reduction is second to none, truly amazing, all the hype on that is 100% true. Plus some of the other advanced tools really work wounders in some situations.
Either program works, I simply find I can move through pictures faster with DXO with a bit better end results as a rule. Although not 100% of the time.
Far as your camera choice, well you are a Cannon guy obviously, so you made the wrong decision already
Honestly I have purposely not kept up with cameras for the last several years as I knew I could not afford a new one and didn’t want to become unhappy with mine. My D80 has served me amazingly well with an 18-200mm lens attached 90% of the time.
When I started out with my first DSLR, it was apparent to me that Canon had the major edge, making all their own sensors and lenses in house. Sonykon didn’t compare, and with the huge line-up of glass in Canon’s arsenal I went that route. The ergonomics suited me better, the tonality for portraits was more to my preference, and once you get started, the commitment means no turning back. I fully intended to buy the 5DMkIII when it came out, but they gouged us on the price and I refused to be part of it, bought a gently used 1DsMkII instead, went away from the bells and whistles and full into rock solid files that are gorgeous. In it’s day, the 1DsMkII had Hasselblad scurrying. New tech leaves it behind of course, so it’s time to move up or move out.
I ran DXO some, found it not to my liking, left Bibble Pro and went to Lightroom. Imagenomic was beating DXO at the noise game last time I checked, been a while since I’ve really done comparisons. The 5DMkIV is probably the answer I’m looking for. My L glass would be fine with it and the step up would be across the board positive.
Really appreciate reading your posts as I too have interest in photography but didn’t have much time to learn deeper. Your posts answer many of my wonders. Thanks!!
Yeah, once you buy into a camera brand you are most certainly committed thats for sure. I am the same way with Nikon, and chose them for many of the same reasons you chose cannon. It really is a ford vs chevy game (well at least back before the government buyout). Either will work just fine and it is just a matter of who released the latest camera as to who is better.
Although over time Nikons just seem to consistantly be a bit nicer quality IMHO. I think this is because they aim more at “pro-sumers” then Cannon does.
I honestly have not done any research on cameras or software in several years, I am sure a lot has changed in both departments. I know I can’t afford to be a part of that right now so why tempt myself? lol
For now it is keeping an interest list
We will provide info on how and when to actually order in this thread and I’ll send all on the list a PM (in groups of 10, yay looking forward on making 70+ groups with names separated by a comma :D)
Got the prototype in my hands now. I do like the feel of it - like the balance. Dropped in some cells, but it's not behaving right - think the fuses might be set wrong. Hard to say what's goin on - working intermittently. Dbl-click works well to max, and it is bright for sure. LED's are a bit off center, as I thought maybe the pictures indicated.
It is a prototype, so I/we shouldn't make too many judgments at this point. More to go...
Fuses are programmed separately from the firmware, but they define critical things the firmware needs to be in sync with, such as the clock rate, brown out detection configuration, etc. Not sure yet what's going on though. It's gotta be clock related - it's all fixable of course .
Here's some comparison with some common lights, and SRK style lights:
Alone:
Under the tailcap:
Contact plate on the driver - looks like nice brass:
Couldn't resist to get some #'s. So... It's impressive. Right about dead even with my home brew Q8 proto, built from a Securitylng 4X SRK clone.
On Samsung 30Q BT's fresh off the charger (not rested) @4.20V:
Lumens: 5,710 @start, 5,320 @30 secs
Throw: 46 kcd (429 meters), taken at 5m (may be higher at 10+ meters)
The Securitylng 4X SRK clone proto on same Samsung 30Q BT's @4.20V did:
Lumens: 5,627 @start, 5,447 @30 secs
Throw: 52 kcd (456 meters)
The 4X SRK clone had a UCLp lens and had bypasses on the springs. It appears the real Q8 proto has regular non-AR glass lens, and large springs, not doubled and not bypassed. The real proto has more of a drop in the first 30 secs, so not sure if it's voltage sag from the springs, or something else going on with heat. Haven't taken her apart yet to get a look at the MCPCB - that will tell us a lot more.
I would say the tint is in the 2 range, 2A or 2B - not the 3D we were asking for, but I'm assuming they are top binned at V6 or maybe V5 based on the performance, but that's hard for me to judge.
. I think I'm feel'n sick, yea, might have to leave work early... 
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