I am not sure people on here tested the amperage using a light a box and got 4200 lumens at 5 amps binning comes into play also.
Hey mate nah no dark spots. Yea i would be guessing it would be around 9000 lumens once it settles its just 200 lumens under so not bad that could also be the light box. But they did get it professionally tested. Id say buy the one that you will actually use the most?
Is that driver from the 2S2P model? There is a buck converter in there (Chip marked LEDA 1624). The buck converter can easily take 4S cells, but I don't know about the rest of the driver. Would be nice to know if both models have the same driver. Or more importantly, if the 2S2P model can be converted to 4S without a driver swap.
Hey mate yea it reads 8 volts when the battery pack when out of the light. I am turning this into a mod thread i will play with the driver soon. I wouldn’t mind to bump the power a little. Maybe the driver is the same but you would need to change the battery holder around to a series config. Easy enough.
Cool. Best wishes on the mods. I'm sure you have this covered, but I would do the following if I were to test the driver for 4S compatibility. I'm not an expert in electronics, but this approach works well for me.
Remove one of the R100 resistors from each of the 3 output channels.
Chances are too much current will flow with double the voltage.
Connect the driver input to a bench top power supply so that you can gradually increase voltage. Connect the output for one emitter to ammeter so that you can monitor current output.
Start at 8.4v (equal to 2S) and go into one of the lower regulated modes.
Increase voltage. If output starts going up, you need more resistance on the voltage output sensor banks.
The goal is to have increased output in the highest mode, but unchanged output in the lower modes. If you increase output in the lower modes, that is a sign the inductors are getting over saturated. Which is not good for buck regulation.
Nice light ! I understood that you want to mode it and the steps recommended by "ImA4Wheelr" are very pertinent and , most of all , electronic correct . The saturation of the magnetic core of the coil will generate also a lot of heat . The solution is to solder a bigger one (hard to do ) or to DIY one from a toroidal core , in the old fashioned way , by winding and measure the inductance.., let's hope that will not be the case !
Second thing that I want to suggest is to change the electrolitic capacitor (big black cilinder) with a SMD tipe with the voltage bigger than the maximum Vin from the batteries (at least X 1.5 ) . From my experience this capacitor is the bottle neck of ALL drivers that has something like this , the temperature is increasing their capacitive reactance and in time the luminous flux will decrease dramatic , as the temperature is the capacitors worst enemy. The SMD ones are less sensitive, better quality and stability in time .
The value is not critical , I used in my modding and repairs values from 22 to 100 micro farads with no problems.
I have the mkII of the MT03 and the driver seems to be identical to this one.
Very tiny inductors…
Let me link to my mod topic, because i’m modding the driver (when parts arrive), and the first thing is to replace the inductors with “60-52” toroids (light green with blue side 15mm outer diameter) with 1mm diameter wire.
Plan is to also upgrade the FETs and diodes and finish it off with a resistor mod (0.03 Ohm)
I hope all will still fit inside the head… :person_facepalming:
PS: It seems that fat driver retaining ring in mine is made of copper ?!
Not even my Channellock snap ring pliars fit and they open wider than any I have fo und. Lol have to do some grinding I guess. I should have brought my angle grinder home from work... love no cords.