Olight S1A Head disassembly

[Anthon]

Hi Friends

Is there a way to disassemble the S1A head or remove the blue front bezel?

I love my S1A but the tint it’s too cool for me and I’d like to swap the led with a warmer one

[Anthon]

I found this tutorial video from a member here

Olight S1A tear down

Everyone got this sweet S1A for review… I got mine too, but choose to swap the emitter so I made a video. Basically, you start like the S1 and driver pill assembly is made like an S2 : [Olight S1A disassambling] EDIT : I am a bit surprised to found an aluminum LED PCB in this little 600 lumens flashlight : [image]

[Polaris]

This disassembly video should be helpful for you:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAgAf4D05kY

Edit: Anthon beat my by a few seconds ;)

[X31 (-X3-)]

[Anthon]

I disassembled it yesterday and found that it has a thin aluminium 15mm PCB so I ordered the new parts,

XM-L2 U3 3D LED 4700-5000k. I want something similar to the MH20 NW (4500-4700k) but I can’t find it, and the T6 4C it’s too warm for me

I also ordered a 16mm noctigon PCB for it, I’ll have to file it down to 15mm but it’s for the best

[X31 (-X3-)]

@Anthon

I disassembled it yesterday and found that it has a thin aluminium 15mm PCB so I ordered the new parts,

XM-L2 U3 3D LED 4700-5000k. I want something similar to the MH20 NW (4500-4700k) but I can’t find it, and the T6 4C it’s too warm for me

I also ordered a 16mm noctigon PCB for it, I’ll have to file it down to 15mm but it’s for the best

You’ll have to sand your Noctigon down to the same thickness as original or it won’t close at all

[djozz]

@~~X3~~

You’ll have to sand your Noctigon down to the same thickness as original or it won’t close at all

…which is not a trivial thing to do. I always make a ‘handle’ by soldering a solid copper piece of wire from one solder pad to the other, and start sanding the Noctigon down while holding it by the piece of copper. When done, I remove the wire and reflow the led.

[X31 (-X3-)]

@djozz

@~~X3~~

You’ll have to sand your Noctigon down to the same thickness as original or it won’t close at all

…which is not a trivial thing to do. I always make a ‘handle’ by soldering a solid copper piece of wire from one solder pad to the other, and start sanding the Noctigon down while holding it by the piece of copper. When done, I remove the wire and reflow the led.

I saw your technique in a thread, really genius
Also, I don’t see the necessity of swapping the stock Al board for a Noctigon…if Olight put this one I think we can keep it.
Although it’s weird, because in the S1 it was aluminum, but not in the s-mini nor the S2…
I’ll open the S1R and S2R soon to swap the emitters (will surely take some pics) and tell BLF if it’s copper or alu

[Gunga]

So you have opened the s mini?

[will34]

X3 has even made a tutorial for it! I want to do a swap on my S1R, hopefully it has a Copper board.

BTW X3, did you apply glue on the bezel for resealing and what kind?

[X31 (-X3-)]

@will34

X3 has even made a tutorial for it! I want to do a swap on my S1R, hopefully it has a Copper board.

BTW X3, did you apply glue on the bezel for resealing and what kind?

No glue, it’s pressed and there is a flat gasket between the bezel and the optic to ensure the sealing.
You’ll find the S-mini teardown in my signature BTW

[Anthon]

@will34

X3 has even made a tutorial for it! I want to do a swap on my S1R, hopefully it has a Copper board.

BTW X3, did you apply glue on the bezel for resealing and what kind?

You don’t need glue, it’s pressed and it’s hard to put the blue bezel again. I had to get the bezel in the freezer and heat the flashlight about 50ºC to get it into it again

Now the worst part, the 20 days waiting for the new led

[RobertB]

Would like to change out the emitter in my S1 Cu, but afraid of damaging the copper body

[mattlward]

RobertT, I have done several aluminum Olight’s now, but I am also concerned about doing my copper. I would really hate to damage the shell, I think copper is softer and I am not sure how it would affect the light after the bezel was removed and pressed back in. Really want to make it a 5A1!