Skilhunt H03 Review

Led swap possible?

Pictures would be appreciated.

LED swap is no problem, just 4 screws and you can extract the lens, reflector and MCPCB.

If you want more throw with XPL HI maybe, but the XML U4 is as bright as an XPL HD V6

Opening the tube to get to the driver is harder.

I’m all about tint. If the neutral is not nice I’ll try a different xml2 or try to get a Nichia in there.

Please let us know if you try a Nichai under that TIR… I know that it may not be nice to mix 3535 footprint with TIR, at least that’s what happen with Olight TIRs.
I swapped mine with a spare XM-L2 (T4-7A) to make it better, will swap again when I receive my T5-5D1 80+ CRI.

Before and after :

Mine showed up today. First Sat off in long time and I got something to play with.

Really liking it so far. My head seams to really tit on the body, want to 18350 one.

Glad you like it. The only issue I have is if wear a hat fishing. The TIR optics will go to waste if I wear the hat lol not really an issue but I do usually wear a hat while fishing. The beam is so wide its awesome. You can leave the light in any position and it will give enough light up or down without having to tilt.

Noticed.
Double click always goes to the brighter turbo.
Flash when using the brighter low.

Edit. smaller than the AT Wizard and H02.
Magnet not as strong as Wizard, better than H02, but is a smaller light.

Still cant get the head off.

The head is glued but with some heat and force it opens

You need way more force to open it than you could do with bare hands but a lot less than I used and failed on my nitecore P12.

The head and body has plane areas you can use a machine vise to hold the body or head and a little vise to twist the other body part counterclockwise

You can use a washer around the switch and some wood on the opposite side to hold the head tight.

Heat always helps to make the glue less strong.

Put it into headlamp mode tonight, by using a H02 Headband, It was a loose fit, but worked great with the clip left on the light. And was easier to install and remove from the head band.

To the basement I go…

Bingo came out to smidge over 2.5 inches. With some friends.!

H03 18350, S15 -cap&switch boot, H03 ,WizardPro, H02

so from which light is that short tube?

I did today some beamshots

I believe it was a a BLF A6 18350 tube that didn’t work for the A6.

Does that mean that the H03R would accommodate a nichia better then the TIR version? I Have both and would like a High CRI LED in one of them.
Could some one recommend me a high cri nichia to put in on of them?

The H03 has a 5050 footprint, so the TIR should be set up for this
The difference should not be that big

I’m thinking of swapping a nichia led in, what size is the mcpcb?

It is 12 or 13mm and 2mm thick

So you have most likely get a small one or get a 16mm and get it smaller as you need DTP to get the Nichia to 3A

The board gets pressed against the body only by the reflector centering ring

Use thermal adhesive like artic silver.

It’s a 15mm or so. I did a bit of filing of a 16mm noctigon but decided to just reflow a new neutral xml2.

I replaced the front glass with one from my Jetbeam Jet-1 MK

I think that was 14 or 15mm diameter, the LED board has a bit less diameter

As the LED light has a Turbo stepdown a DTP board would not be really better than a good copper board
The MXL2 footprint is better on normal boards as it is bigger than XPL