Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

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SawMaster
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pilotdog68 wrote:
I don’t think the hole in the shelf is a problem personally. There is still thick shelf under the emitters, right? Choose your battles.

Agreed and well said. If it’s a no-cost ‘fix’ then fine, but not much more can be had here. Same goes for the anodizing here.

The driver is the more important concern; I might be able to get a little help for technical Chinese-English translations as there’s a nice guy on a dashcam forum who works doing development stuff with those directly with the factories. He’s very busy though, so I’d rather we not bother him until we’re really stuck. Which hopefully won’t happen Wink

I’m intrigued with the double springs- one for strength and one for current-carrying; that seems to be a more practical approach for manufacturers than hand-worked bypasses and has much less chance of shorting out. For the easy gains to be had I wonder why more manufacturers don’t do this? I’m still PO’ed with my A6 changing modes when bumped and this approach should eliminate that. Those wanting to bypass still can so nothing lost, only gains Big Smile

It seems we’re going to wind up with a light that exceeds the design expectations- I can’t recall seeing that happen before! Now to wipe the drool off my keyboard and begin chanting my “Patience” mantra….

Phil

Flintrock
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Might be interesting to just change out the FET on their board and see what happens to output, if ours will fit or could be hacked on for a test.  

Texas_Ace
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Flintrock wrote:

Might be interesting to just change out the FET on their board and see what happens to output, if ours will fit or could be hacked on for a test.  

Better to get them to just use ours, we know it works and we know why and how it works. We don’t want to even give them the option of changing it IMO. We already see what happens when they try that.

They should be able to get the tiny85 in China without much trouble. So possibly the FET was the issue, in which case we could always swap that out with something easier for them to get. Much better to do that then have them change the driver IMHO.

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

djozz
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Thanks for all the work, Tom!

*The BLF-A6 has a different FET than was proposed too, and the performance, though slightly worse, is plenty good enough.
I’m more worried about the MCU, there may be a reason that the final BLF lights had genuine Attiny chips.
*About the hole in the shelf: I agree with the others that it does not matter much.
*About putting more copper in the tailboard: the current tracing is overkill already, more is not needed and will increase costs somewhat.
*I would like to see an extra machining step to remove the anodising on the led shelf, it could even make the shelf extra flat.
*I’d rather have a 5500lm Q8 than 6000lm, looking at the current/output graph of the XP-L, that last 500 lumen is expensive: it comes with lots of waste current/heat and reduced runtime
*Further: well made and fitting led centering rings are a must, can we have AR-coating, just for show?, the more colourful indicator leds the better, I don’t mind single or double springs as long as they are not bypassed in the stock light (safety!), this light will be a killer!

Hezekiah
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OK sign me up for one!!!!

Tom E
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Thanx! Posted this intro info in my MT07 review thread. Took pics of both groups of lights - throwers and SRK's.

Took some outdoor shots last night at a local park - Edgewood Preserve, site of an old hospital long since demolished, and rumored to still have some spirits haunting the trails (info). The park closes at dusk but can still access it, just dunno if I'd get kicked out, but last night was all quiet. Here's the old hospital from the 40's:

This is the BLF Q8 proto compared with a modified SupFire M6 (3X LED's, ~5,000 lumens), the 4X SRK clone (Securitylng), and the BLF Q8, and distance is about 100 meters to the tree:

Second set was closer, about 25 meters:

Texas_Ace
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I much prefer the SRK myself.

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

djozz
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I like the Q8 best,the small hotspot of the SRK is less to my liking, the M6 has a nice beam too!

miswas
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Hello,

 

I've just found this thread, and the light sounds great!  Please put me down for 1 light.  Thanks!

 

 

-Ben

 

The Miller
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Me like that Q8 beam!
So much thanks Tom, what a lot of work you are putting into this besides all that Narsil programming.
And speaking of Narsil, a quote from the Gt topic:

Theodore41 wrote:
I have read recently some posts of a Dutch Police officer in the other forum,telling about the self defense use of flashlights.According to him,the optimum strobe mode frequency,is 18Hz,instead of the usual 10-12Hz of the different brands.
So,if the giga thrower comes to production,would you manage to put this better frequency in this?
Tom, what is the strobe frequency? (sorry if i have forgotten it)
malamask
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I also prefer the Q8 beam.
Great job guys.
Make the final adjustments and it will be superb

stephenk
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The Q8 beam looks the best in those photos for a flooder!

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Pricerange of this flashlight??

"Do to others, what you would like others do to you.."

-MortyDuck-

malamask
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40$ including shipping

Tom E
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The Miller wrote:
Me like that Q8 beam! So much thanks Tom, what a lot of work you are putting into this besides all that Narsil programming. And speaking of Narsil, a quote from the Gt topic:
Theodore41 wrote:
I have read recently some posts of a Dutch Police officer in the other forum,telling about the self defense use of flashlights.According to him,the optimum strobe mode frequency,is 18Hz,instead of the usual 10-12Hz of the different brands. So,if the giga thrower comes to production,would you manage to put this better frequency in this?
Tom, what is the strobe frequency? (sorry if i have forgotten it)

In the manual, first page, says 16 Hz smile. I've read that post a few times over the years. Dunno why I backed off from 18, but the 16 is really intense as-is. Bistro uses 10 Hz.

Texas_Ace
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I have a custom 16hz strobe in the TA version of bistro, it is far more intense then the 10hz for sure.

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

ImA4Wheelr
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Looking at the beam shots, I prefer the old Kung beam profile.  Broader spill which is very important for a general purpose light.  The hot spot is more defined and intense which is a plus or minus depending on the situation.

EDIT:  Changed tone and clarified.

Flintrock
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Texas_Ace wrote:
Flintrock wrote:

Might be interesting to just change out the FET on their board and see what happens to output, if ours will fit or could be hacked on for a test.  

Better to get them to just use ours, we know it works and we know why and how it works. We don't want to even give them the option of changing it IMO. We already see what happens when they try that. They should be able to get the tiny85 in China without much trouble. So possibly the FET was the issue, in which case we could always swap that out with something easier for them to get. Much better to do that then have them change the driver IMHO.

 

Hmm.. I was not aiming to demonstrate that it's fine and we can hack it if we want.  I was trying to demonstrate that  this makes a difference, and so should be improved, but it's also possible that it doesn't.  

 

Oh yeah, still liking the SRK with that wider spill and tighter spot.

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Or possibly $44, give or take. Either way, to say this is going to be a lot of light for the money is a tremendous understatement. I didn’t want to get on the list, I really didn’t. I resisted, but it was inevitable. Even if you really don’t want to buy another light, there is really no choice. What we will be getting for our money here is silly good. Thanks all.

Tom E
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Here's the 3 lights from the beamshots:

 

This shows the BLF Q8 (left) compared to the 4X SRK clone (right). The Q8 reflectors are clearly smaller, maybe deeper as well, but the XPL vs. XM-L2 can confuse that perspective. The clone has deeper cut done portions at the overlap positions, and the center point of the reflector is lower than the Q8:

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I have to say I really like the beam profile myself. IMHO too many lights these days are designed with throw in mind which is great if you use your lights in places where the closest object is 300 yards away but that’s not my case. 95% of the time my light usage is within 5 foot of me, 2.5% is up to 25 yards, and the last 2.5% is greater than 25 yards. Based on this I have need for a super tight spotlight, a nice smooth broad beam is ideal for me.

DB Custom
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Tac Gunner, remove the glass lens from your light and take it to a machine shop or gunsmith, have them bead blast the outside surface of the glass lightly to frost it. You’ll have uniform floody output with virtually no hotspot. Wink

Dale

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About the strobe i think tom is right with the 16Hz nitecore has the most disturbing strobe i think and their strobe is 16.309hz http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/selfbuilt/2014/P12-Strobe.gif

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Um, did you know…
If you point a modified TM16 (4 XHP-35 at 7072 lumens) at your own face from about 2’ away in strobe mode it’s even painful with your eyes closed?

FWIW, even the little MH20GT is pretty staggering if aimed directly at ones face in strobe. Just saying.

Dale

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jack-bkk wrote:
About the strobe i think tom is right with the 16Hz nitecore has the most disturbing strobe i think and their strobe is 16.309hz http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/selfbuilt/2014/P12-Strobe.gif

What Nitecore model is it?
The Miller
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OP updated
started with making groups of 10 of the usernames on the interest list, now at nr 67 on the list. plan on doing about that amount each time a OP edit is needed an well hope it will be done when the Q8 is done Wink

DavidEF
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The Miller wrote:
OP updated
started with making groups of 10 of the usernames on the interest list, now at nr 67 on the list. plan on doing about that amount each time a OP edit is needed an well hope it will be done when the Q8 is done Wink

What? Groups of 10? What are you talking about?

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
-Ayn Rand

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I have a few questions related to the prototype:
1) Has a diffuser been tested on it yet? (I recall talk about a Fenix AOD-L diffuser earlier in the thread).
2) What are the largest protected cells that have been tested to fit? (As some protected Sanyo/Panasonic NCR18650GAs are a bit obese)
Thanks Smile

The Miller
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One can only mass PM 10 users at the time, so those 760 need to be divided in groups of 10, thought I do it openly, in case I make a mistake (spaces or comma, all needs to be correct and I kind of expect people to see f their nae is on there ;))

Tom E
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Good Q's - just tried the Fenix diffusor and it fits - holds on pretty good. The Fenix ones are pretty grippy - I don't see how this can come off easy the way it's designed and fits. On max, pretty much lights up the whole house! With ramping, easy to set the level you want.

For protected cells, I tried:

  • 68.85 mm KP 3100's - worked fine, fit fine
  • 69.96 mm Pana B no name protected circuit - worked fine, fit fine

This is not surprising - they use pretty tall springs so lots of sizes should fit.

 

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