Thank you emarkd, I was thinking about swapping the blue bezel of my alu S1 to the Ti polished one.
This idea didnāt leave my mind since I saw a pre-production sample on google :
For the record, on the photographers color wheel (and fashion designers as far as that goes) blue is the compliment to orange as itās on the opposite side of the wheel. 
(blue to copper, best contrast according to the industry)
Since we all see colors somewhat differently, interpretation is key.
Nicely done removing those small pieces without damage or loss. Tedious stuff there!
I was surprised to see the brass SMini, I thought the Olight site said they were in copper or Titanium, with coatings for variation in color? Interesting.
Sirius, I was in the middle of modifying a Nitecore P30 but took a look at the stock battery tube on my SR90, the pcb hasnāt been removed before and is in there solid like you describe. I do have the end pieces from the other tube, and they have a lot of electronics on them, drilling through would be virtually impossible to do without damaging it.
When I got mine it had a tube someone had tried to modify with different cells, so the end pieces were there but no cells. I think they used 1600mAh 18650ās that are cardboard wrapped and welded in pack form, 2S3P, as such it would surely benefit the light to use better newer tech in cell choice. I made adapter tubes (literally a section of D sized MagLite tube) and was using 26650ās with a PVC tube inside the Mag tube. Now I use 2 32650ās in the Mag tube for the longest run time (they have 6000mAh capacity.)
Iāll see about getting that top pcb out, it might actually be glued in place, they like doing stuff like that.
Edit: For clarity, I cut the length of the Mag tube, making a slot wide enough for the 18 Ga Turnigy wire to bring ground up from the bottom, so the ground wire runs inside the slotted D Mag Tube, beside the 2 32650ās. Just used a heavy copper plate glued to the pcb at the bottom, soldered the 18 Ga wire to the plate, so thatās my contact plate for negative. This allows that top pcb to still have both positive and ground for the driver contact.
Yeah, wow, that looks great together. Its not hard to swap, just tedious. Be careful the thing doesnāt shoot across the garage and get lost forever.
Yeah Iām sure thereās some implicit bias in my opinions here. I actually performed the swap specifically to get the polished stainless on my copper light, because copper > brass and stainless/copper >> blue/copper. Honestly Iām not a fan on the Olight blue on any of the raw metals. It looks nice on the black ano, but otherwise I generally find it distracting. So I was just surprised to find the brass/blue combo as appealing as I did when finished.
Or maybe its because I went to school at GT. THWG! 
Nice little swap on parts. One of the quickest ways to spruce up a house is to change out old door hardware for shiny new bits, makes a difference in every room you see.
Planning a major mod to my waistline. Happy turkey day. :face_with_monocle:
Happy Thanksgiving!
Waiting for the game to start, feeling like Iām gonna explode! 
I stuffed me more than any Turkey even managedā¦
Mom modded my waisteline so I worked some of it off setting up her living room after she moved a couple months ago.
New 55in 4K TV, no cable. Hard wired for internet with her Roku on the side with my shared Netflix. Recently I went over her home PC with a new Vid card and SSD. Have it in the living room on the new TV with some entertainment stuff like Kodi and Exodus to get her anything she could want. She is 70 years old and gotta be proud of her to cut the Cable for the past 3 years.
I needed a small 100uF cap for a driver prototype but havenāt one at hand so I āmoddedā 10x 10uF SMD caps to a 100uF one:
Now thatās dedication !
I havenāt even try to solder any SMD componentā¦ I canāt imagine how much of a hassle it would be to solder a dozen side by side
Wasnāt too difficult. I used double sided adhesive tape on a flat surface to fix 5 caps side by side. Soldered them together and built the next group of 5. Fixed this two groups again to the tape, soldered them and connected the wires. Maybe 15 minutes of work. Most of this time used to locate caps which fell down to the floor.
Clever.
Small parts falling on the floor (in the carpet, so much better) is something I can rely on
ārelateā ?
Yeahā¦ you canāt rely on my English skills :person_facepalming:
I liked the first version better. I can rely on small parts falling to the floor as much as I can rely on the sun coming up.
Haha itās ok now you know
Thrunite T20T titanium
MTN 17mm FET+1 driver
XP-L HI on Sinkpad
15mm x 7mm round aluminium heatsink in head
Potted driver
6mm x 1.5mm green tritium vial in lanyard hole
Fixed squishy loose switch cover
Black aesthetics
Brushed finish for improved grip
That looks sweet, was just looking at buying one of those from illumn.
Thatās where i bought mine, not many left on the market.
Iām getting to where I like the smaller lights, Iāve got a T10 and a T10T that I really like.