What did you mod today?

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DB Custom
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For the record, on the photographers color wheel (and fashion designers as far as that goes) blue is the compliment to orange as it’s on the opposite side of the wheel. Wink (blue to copper, best contrast according to the industry)

Since we all see colors somewhat differently, interpretation is key. Wink

Nicely done removing those small pieces without damage or loss. Tedious stuff there!

I was surprised to see the brass SMini, I thought the Olight site said they were in copper or Titanium, with coatings for variation in color? Interesting.

DB Custom
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Sirius, I was in the middle of modifying a Nitecore P30 but took a look at the stock battery tube on my SR90, the pcb hasn’t been removed before and is in there solid like you describe. I do have the end pieces from the other tube, and they have a lot of electronics on them, drilling through would be virtually impossible to do without damaging it.
When I got mine it had a tube someone had tried to modify with different cells, so the end pieces were there but no cells. I think they used 1600mAh 18650’s that are cardboard wrapped and welded in pack form, 2S3P, as such it would surely benefit the light to use better newer tech in cell choice. I made adapter tubes (literally a section of D sized MagLite tube) and was using 26650’s with a PVC tube inside the Mag tube. Now I use 2 32650’s in the Mag tube for the longest run time (they have 6000mAh capacity.)
I’ll see about getting that top pcb out, it might actually be glued in place, they like doing stuff like that.

Edit: For clarity, I cut the length of the Mag tube, making a slot wide enough for the 18 Ga Turnigy wire to bring ground up from the bottom, so the ground wire runs inside the slotted D Mag Tube, beside the 2 32650’s. Just used a heavy copper plate glued to the pcb at the bottom, soldered the 18 Ga wire to the plate, so that’s my contact plate for negative. This allows that top pcb to still have both positive and ground for the driver contact. Wink

emarkd
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X3 wrote:
Thank you emarkd, I was thinking about swapping the blue bezel of my alu S1 to the Ti polished one.

Yeah, wow, that looks great together. Its not hard to swap, just tedious. Be careful the thing doesn’t shoot across the garage and get lost forever.

DB Custom wrote:
For the record, on the photographers color wheel (and fashion designers as far as that goes) blue is the compliment to orange as it’s on the opposite side of the wheel. Wink (blue to copper, best contrast according to the industry)

Since we all see colors somewhat differently, interpretation is key. Wink

Yeah I’m sure there’s some implicit bias in my opinions here. I actually performed the swap specifically to get the polished stainless on my copper light, because copper > brass and stainless/copper >> blue/copper. Honestly I’m not a fan on the Olight blue on any of the raw metals. It looks nice on the black ano, but otherwise I generally find it distracting. So I was just surprised to find the brass/blue combo as appealing as I did when finished.

Or maybe its because I went to school at GT. THWG! Smile

Rufusbduck
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Nice little swap on parts. One of the quickest ways to spruce up a house is to change out old door hardware for shiny new bits, makes a difference in every room you see.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Planning a major mod to my waistline. Happy turkey day. Hat

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

DB Custom
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Happy Thanksgiving!

Waiting for the game to start, feeling like I’m gonna explode! Big Smile I stuffed me more than any Turkey even managed…

vwpieces
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Mom modded my waisteline so I worked some of it off setting up her living room after she moved a couple months ago.
New 55in 4K TV, no cable. Hard wired for internet with her Roku on the side with my shared Netflix. Recently I went over her home PC with a new Vid card and SSD. Have it in the living room on the new TV with some entertainment stuff like Kodi and Exodus to get her anything she could want. She is 70 years old and gotta be proud of her to cut the Cable for the past 3 years.

Flashy Mike
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I needed a small 100uF cap for a driver prototype but haven’t one at hand so I “modded” 10× 10uF SMD caps to a 100uF one:

-X3-
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Now that’s dedication !
I haven’t even try to solder any SMD component… I can’t imagine how much of a hassle it would be to solder a dozen side by side

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

Flashy Mike
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X3 wrote:
Now that’s dedication !
I haven’t even try to solder any SMD component… I can’t imagine how much of a hassle it would be to solder a dozen side by side
Wasn’t too difficult. I used double sided adhesive tape on a flat surface to fix 5 caps side by side. Soldered them together and built the next group of 5. Fixed this two groups again to the tape, soldered them and connected the wires. Maybe 15 minutes of work. Most of this time used to locate caps which fell down to the floor.
-X3-
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Flashy Mike wrote:
X3 wrote:
Now that’s dedication !
I haven’t even try to solder any SMD component… I can’t imagine how much of a hassle it would be to solder a dozen side by side
Wasn’t too difficult. I used double sided adhesive tape on a flat surface to fix 5 caps side by side. Soldered them together and built the next group of 5. Fixed this two groups again to the tape, soldered them and connected the wires. Maybe 15 minutes of work. Most of this time used to locate caps which fell down to the floor.

Clever.
Small parts falling on the floor (in the carpet, so much better) is something I can rely on^^

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

Enderman
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X3 wrote:
Flashy Mike wrote:
X3 wrote:
Now that’s dedication !
I haven’t even try to solder any SMD component… I can’t imagine how much of a hassle it would be to solder a dozen side by side
Wasn’t too difficult. I used double sided adhesive tape on a flat surface to fix 5 caps side by side. Soldered them together and built the next group of 5. Fixed this two groups again to the tape, soldered them and connected the wires. Maybe 15 minutes of work. Most of this time used to locate caps which fell down to the floor.

Clever.
Small parts falling on the floor (in the carpet, so much better) is something I can rely on^^

“relate” ?
-X3-
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Enderman wrote:
X3 wrote:
Flashy Mike wrote:
X3 wrote:
Now that’s dedication !
I haven’t even try to solder any SMD component… I can’t imagine how much of a hassle it would be to solder a dozen side by side
Wasn’t too difficult. I used double sided adhesive tape on a flat surface to fix 5 caps side by side. Soldered them together and built the next group of 5. Fixed this two groups again to the tape, soldered them and connected the wires. Maybe 15 minutes of work. Most of this time used to locate caps which fell down to the floor.

Clever.
Small parts falling on the floor (in the carpet, so much better) is something I can rely on^^

“relate” ?

Yeah… you can’t rely on my English skills Facepalm

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

Flintrock
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I liked the first version better.  I can rely on small parts falling to the floor as much as I can rely on the sun coming up. 

Enderman
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X3 wrote:

Yeah… you can’t rely on my English skills Facepalm

Haha it’s ok Smile now you know
CRX
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Thrunite T20T titanium

MTN 17mm FET+1 driver
XP-L HI on Sinkpad
15mm x 7mm round aluminium heatsink in head
Potted driver
6mm x 1.5mm green tritium vial in lanyard hole
Fixed squishy loose switch cover
Black aesthetics
Brushed finish for improved grip

djburkes
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CRX wrote:
Thrunite T20T titanium

MTN 17mm FET+1 driver
XP-L HI on Sinkpad
15mm x 7mm round aluminium heatsink in head
Potted driver
6mm x 1.5mm green tritium vial in lanyard hole
Fixed squishy loose switch cover
Black aesthetics
Brushed finish for improved grip

!{width:80%}[img]http://i.imgur.com/noHRJFW.jpg[/img]!

That looks sweet, was just looking at buying one of those from illumn.

CRX
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That’s where i bought mine, not many left on the market.

djburkes
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CRX wrote:
That’s where i bought mine, not many left on the market.

I’m getting to where I like the smaller lights, I’ve got a T10 and a T10T that I really like.

CRX
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Yeah i bought the T10T a couple of years ago and thought i’d get the 16340 version while i still could.
Happy with it now after the tweaks or should i say total rebuild.

will34
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I received this “Solder bridge” style S2+ copper pill from Hoop long time ago but just used them today.

IMO this is the best driver retention system, it secures the driver very firmly and the ground has a true direct path to the pill. The solderable part is very cleverly designed like a bridge (hence the name) so the heat doesn’t immediately dissipate when applying the iron. Black S2+, NUV FET+1, XP-L HI and smooth reflector waiting to be used with pflexpro’s MT glass.

vwpieces
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Built one of my Titanium triples from Rey. XP-L HI 3A, Mth Fet+1 Bistro.



djburkes
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vwpieces wrote:
Built one of my Titanium triples from Rey. XP-L HI 3A, Mth Fet+1 Bistro.

Very nice!!

DB Custom
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Funny VW, I just got done with my own Rey Ti tube light triple! lol

I dug out an old driver with the big Vishay 07N02 MOSFET on it, replaced a couple of components to ensure it worked properly, now I have 7 modes to 3 XP-L emitters (dome on) under the Carclo 10507. With an 18350 (how I’ll use it) it’s making

31.57 lumens
82.11
356.73
665.51
1003.95
1411.05
1918.20

This is on an older light purple Efest 18350.

The board is one of the very old original designs when we first quit using Qlite’s stripped down, it’s got components on both sides so I soldered the ground ring into the threads instead of using a retaining ring. There are positive via’s out close to the edge for the positive lead to the emitter, the ground ring would overlap these. They literally left a gap in the ground ring for these 2 side-by-side vias, it’s crazy! This is BLF 17dd Ver 3.0, if you want to look it up. Wink The LVP resistors and Offtime cap are on the battery side of the board, along with zener pads and the reverse polarity diode. THAT’s how big the 07N02 FET is!

I literally found a copper pill with a Noctigon triple already mounted, with 3 XP-L emitters on it, in my kit. (They show up orangy under a UV so they’re in the 2B-3D range) It fit right into this Ti tube light so I went ahead and used it. Was a bit dumbfounded to find it, as I know this is a limited run light, where that copper pill came from is beyond me. It had a copper retaining ring in it as well, the new one had a brass retaining ring. Beats me! But it fit, so it’s in the light and working! lol

vwpieces
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Kinda working on a couple at the same time today. Got a bunch of switches bypassed including this lighted one in the SS. Did a few things while the hot plate was on too. Got another SS while the price was right and finished it up today. My second SS triple and did this one with the elliptical optic. Same emitters as the other with polishe optic, XP-L HI 3A. Kept the X6 driver and the lighted tail on this one. Typical hot issues with the reversing brightness but it stays on pretty long on high before it kicks down or the UI issues start. Copper body was stripped of coating, copper spacer soldered into it and the XP32 MCPCB soldered on top.



kiriba-ru
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Cute-3 elliptical? Are you sure?

giorgoskok
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I’ve got a question…
What wires should i use from driver to leds on a triple xhp70 light , with fet driver ?

vwpieces
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kiriba-ru wrote:
Cute-3 elliptical? Are you sure?

Sorry for not using the correct terms, it is 3:30 AM here.

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That soldering on the bridge looks real sweet will. Thumbs Up

 

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I did bypass on both springs on the s41s with 22awg wire and changed the stock thermal paste with Arctic MX-4. DMM readout at the tail shows 12.1A with VTC6 @ 4.2v. If i remember correctly in stock form it was about 10A so 2A gain is not bad, it gets hot even faster tho, after 45sec turbo run you cant even touch the copper, it will burn your hand, not very usable.

 Olight i3s, Olight S1, Olight S Mini, JetBeam Jet-1, BLF 348, Astrolux S41S, UF SK-98, Convoy S2+ 3*XP-G2, Convoy S2+ 3*XPL, Convoy S2+ 219CT, Convoy M1, Convoy C8, Brinyte B158, Courui D01, Convoy L6, Noctigon M43

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