Please keep me updated about the button.
For the button, what I did was move the rubber boot inside the collar instead of outside, as it came. To me it feels a bit better, works well. I added some Nyogel where the cap makes contact to the brass collar and the end cap assembly. There's still some wobble but I find it acceptable.I fiddled with a couple o-rings in various places, but it took away the button press ability - not a good thing, so I didn't pursue the O-rings any further.
The tint is a bit warmer than Nichia 5000's I have, but wow, it looks so good for a 4000K LED...
Now all I have to do is add the trit that's been wait'n.
Got mine the other day and it is a beautiful piece of craftsmanship. But I can definitely see the PWM. Rey, if you end up producing a revised driver at a faster rate, I will definitely order one.
For what it’s worth, most BLF designs run at about 15 to 20 kHz. The ideal speed is about 20 to 25 kHz, just fast enough to not see and not hear.
The common nanjg driver runs at 4.5 kHz, which many consider too slow because it can be seen and heard.
Rey, this light and its tint/beam and modes are perfect for working on engines, looking for possible leaks, lost bolts, contrast, and such. No shelf queen for mine. Good job and thanks.
Hard for me to tell about CRI, but this is a high CRI light with an AR coated lens. Has anyone seen a problem with this? Thought TK and others say AR coated lens kill CRI.
I'm really impressed with this light, so not a complaint, just wondering what the thoughts are on this - it's come up before with the BLF Q8, and other lights.
Generally it doesn’t.
Ahh, you would be the definite guy to know! Thanks! Was think'n of pm'ing you bout it. All I know is two BLFers that said an AR lens reduces CRI. I think the AR lens requirement was dropped from the BLF Q8 for that reason alone. Maybe it's bad AR treatments, as we see in some low cost AR lens?
I think the tint can be affected with some reflector lens combinations, which would make the beam purplish on the edges of the spill, but from my testing with the same light with and without AR lens, it has no ill effect on the CRI.
Have to agree with this. I’ve had a hard time putting mine down since it arrived. It just feels good in the hand, a really nice size/shape to hold and use. Maybe I just got lucky, but I’ve got no issues with mine. I’m sure the PWM is there but I can’t see it or hear it. And my tailswitch is as good as most other metal switches I’ve used, better than some really. Its just a solid light that I’m not at all worried about harming, cause its very solid. I’m normally a copper sort of guy, but this brass has really grown on me.
The Pineapple does appear to have some sort of hue splitting, in the same manner I normally see on AR-coated lights. Here’s a beam slice which shows the typical blue ring around the outside of its beam:
As for the beam itself, mine seems to be about the same color temperature as my ZL H52Fw (4400K) or L3 L10-219A (4500K), except it’s a little bit green instead of a little bit pink. There is also a ring in the middle of the spill area:
It appears warmer than my Nichia 219B lights at 4750K-5000K, and warmer than my Cree 3D (~4900K) lights, but colder than my BLF A01 at 4000K, and colder than my ZL H51w at 4200K. I haven’t tried removing the lens yet, to see if the beam gets colder with the blue ring mixed back in.
The Rey Pineapple is looking nicer after a bit of wear though. The head is now the same color as the body, and the recessed areas now have a bit more depth. However, the logo is nearly invisible; it could perhaps have been engraved a little deeper. Here are some pictures of it after some attempts to weather and polish it:
Looks awesome TK! I added an ice blue trit in the switch, and changed the tail assembly so the rubber boot is under the sleeve instead of over (switch felt better), otherwise left it stock for now.
Polished mine and I like it much better; orange trit looks good too. Regarding the switch button wobbliness - all credit to gunga for this idea:
just stack approx. 2 layers of thicker self-adhesive material - he suggested glow sticker material which I used -- right on top of the smallest part of the black switch inside the tailswitch. It not only has much less play/wobbliness, but it does actually tailstand a little bit better.
Also wanted to add how much I like this light.
So many positive review for this pineapple, can’t wait to see mine arrived.
The new batch will have 9K Hz.
Fabulous Rey! Is this in reference to the Ti version with the slightly different body style, or the current brass body style version?
Will the driver maybe be available too?
It will be used in both brass and ti.
Got mine today. Awesome light, well centred LED and general level of craftsmanship high. Very happy.
Now looking forward to a Ti version with the Damascus design.
As to the discussion about comparing this with the Astrolux 4xLED: I own both but for different reasons. Astrolux is a nice show-off light with a very useful low-mode in a SHTF situations. I bring it with me when I want to impress friends and lure them into this not-so-budget LED light craze 
The pineapple is a nice EDC light I can leave on the night-stand and pick up when not wanting to thread on one of the cats while stumbling to the loo. But it’s a joy to have due to the thinking that went into the design of this thing, the nice execution and the high CRI LED used.
Thanks Rey, looking forward to your next projects!
Tried to patina, failed.
Borrowed from another member.
I have polished the light and put it in the vinegar with boiled egg last Sunday, after 4 days, nearly nothing happened, expect the SS button turned black.
