New VirEnce MCPCB for E17/E21/119/144/233U

A 16mm board, if screw holes are added, must have them countersunk or the scews will mess with many reflectors. =less needed for 20mm

No screw holes for the 16mm only the 20mm has it.
How do you usually secure the 16mm and 20mm boards?

In many flashlights they are just pressed down by the reflector, or adhesive is used under the board, this is especially common for 16mm boards. 20mm boards are sometimes screwed down. The holes in the board may best be somewhat wider than the used screw, to have some wiggle room to center it under the reflector. Thinking of that, it may be a good idea to not make countersink holes.

I thought so too. With countersunk holes, the free play is limited. It’s also easier to isolate the screws from the board (CDTP limitation).
You know what Djozz? “CDTP” is popularized by you! You were the first to use that term, AFAIK :wink:

Screws in general might be a problem. They might create an electrical connection between mpcb and the heatsink.

No if you use high strength plastic screws :wink:

Are they still under development?
When will them be sold?
What is the expected price?

and not if there is a copper trace clear-out of 2mm around the holes so the screw head can not get in contact with the electrical circuitry

- The (three) designs are 90% ready for upload, only holes/slots placement left. I also design another aluminum square DTP 30mm x 25mm linear 3535 single/triple config exclusively for use with LEDIL STRADA and SHELLY

- ASAP in early February. But please, please, don’t take it tightly. I’ve been trying my best to be a faster designer/provider, yet still not fast enough for BLF.

  • Will TRY to bring them here at approximately USD 3 - 4/pcs

C'mon! A fiber washer is all you need for those metal screws.

Cheers ^:)

No, plain washer still expose the screw thread to possibly contact to the MCPCB body
You have to at least use waisted/flanged washer to insulate both the screw head and the thread body, otherwise you’ll screw it. But flanged washer will need bigger holes. Normal clearance fit for M3 x 0,5 is 3,2mm. With flanged washer you have to open up to 3,8-4mm minimum hole diameter.
With plastic screw you can save the precious surface area and simplify installation. Plastic screw comes in wide variety of materials and designs.

Hi Clemence,

Got a link for those hi strength plastic screws?

Thanks

http://www.extreme-bolt.com/applications-high-temperature.html
https://www.plasticnutsandbolts.com/materialsz.html
https://solidspot.com/engineering_plastic_screws.html

PEEK is my preferred material choice

Please review these drafts.

Decided to follow standard “star” shape, though mine is rounded to make centering easier if necessary.
I still haven’t heard about optic holes for the 20mm. Should I just leave it blank? So everyone can just drill themselves?
I prefer to leave it blank, since in this CDTP design, anode/cathode surface area is of high importance.

@Barkuti: Dude, you get those slots. :wink:

Thank you,

  • Clemence

So the +trace is one large pour over the entire surface with just a clearing for the -pad which is a small connection the size of the solder pad going down to the core?

(I’m not familiar with single led optics so I can’t advice on the holes)

That, I can’t tell you yet :wink:

Ever wondering why this budget friendly Sn96,5Ag3,5 with superior thermal conductivity 78 W/M.K is not so popular?
Here’s the answer: http://www.psma.com/ul_files/forums/leadfree/aim_lead_free_guide.pdf
The short answer is it has somewhat troublesome wetting ability. Not a good thing for automated soldering. But for us who really likes to spend hours just to get perfect reflow, this should not be a major problem. The jump from ~50 W/M.K to 78 W/M.K is indeed worth the hassles.

- Clemence

Eye candy

Nice render, time for and avatar picture change?

Ah, Forgot that. Thanks Jos