Just made KD order the other day and missed that. Too much already in the cart and I dumped some 4500K XP-L HI out to get it to a reasonable price. Definitely would have adjusted “other” items to get some of the triple nichias for that price. Hope they last long enough to get some for the next order.
Thanks antiparanoico, I'll wait for him to tell me something tomorrow, I have shown him both a 20mm star and a 16mm round MCPCB in order for him to know what to look for under the reflector.
Just don't wanna pull the trigger too soon (LoL).
Cheers ^:)
I use a headlamp very often, when i hobby on lights for example.
It and my reading glasses make an awesome support team.
But i recently put a Nichia 219C 4000K in it and i’m really happy with it.
it’s driven by an nanjg AK47 in 3 modes 1050mA, which is more than enough, i use it mainly in medium mode.
I gave it flood optics too.
I wouldn’t want it to be a warmer tint.
This springtime daylight tint is nice and ‘awake’.
…and i’m waiting for KD to reply, my order still doesn’t show up so i sent a message with details…
What's the PWM frequency on AK-47s? 4.5KHz?
I've recently had some discussion with regards to battery life and light output efficiency for Nanjg 105c drivers, and now I see them with completely different eyes. I mean, what's the typical PWM frequency for these drivers? Because AMC7135 regulators do need some time to turn on/off, and this actually makes a hell of a difference in energetic efficiency at “high” (6+KHz) PWM frequencies. Source: AMC7135 PWM LED control – works? @ Pratik Panda
Dropping out of regulation at up to 3.9-4V for PWM modes (Qlite version)? What the @#$%!
Sooo, those 4.5KHz of its sibling AK-47 seem better with this respect.
Cheers ^:)
I’m not sure, but it sounds like around 4kHz.
(ever noticed it’s mainly the switch that sings along with the PWM frequency?)
It’s high enough to be invisible. (at least to my eyes)
Mmm, just read some documentation about this. There's some sort of switching transistor inside those AMC7135's, that is the switch you mean, I guess.
“… high enough” for you, of course. Everyone's sensitivity is/may be different. However, “PWM” here means that, in essence, light output isn't “continuous”, but a sequence of PWM wave periods.
Honestly, PWM is suited for strobe and SOS, which are periodic signals. However, “emulating” a continuous “stream” of light through a periodic PWM on/off wave is, or can be, extraordinarily gross. The lower the PWM frequency (flicker) and magnitude (efficiency), the grosser. 1% PWM moonlight mode? :facepalm: LoL! The amount of drawbacks I can see on this now, in practice (efficiency, flicker, etc), is quite substantial.
I'll be back.
Cheers ^:)
There's variations with the 7135's but we typically program them at over 8 kHz. Actually with 13A's, we use 9.4 kHz phase-correct PWM or 18.75 kHz fast-PWM.
Biscotti, STAR firmware, etc., pretty much all use these PWM settings.
You mean 9.375KHz phase-correct/18.75KHz fast PWM, Tom E?
AMC7135 PWM LED control – works? @ Pratik Panda
The aforementioned above link has errors on the period scale. Actual turn-on/turn-off times: 80μs/40μs.
Of course, 9.375/18.75KHz PWM frequency is outrageously fast (and wrong!) to drive AMC7135s. However, if you are to question my reasoning, have another cup of evidence:
HKJ's Test/Review of Qlite Rev.A 7135*8 Multiple Modes Circuit Board 3.04A
A little briefing of HKJ's quotes:
“The driver does not disable pwm at high.”
“Due to the fast pwm, the driver does not turn fully on. This makes the driver drop out of regulation at a fairly high voltage.”
“Due to the high pwm frequency, the curve it not square, but rounded.”
“In low mode the light is never in regulation.”
Fellows, the irregular shape and level of the regulator's output during the turn-on phase tells me its efficiency barely reaches 40% for that 8μs (turn-on) period.
With all of this in mind, it is clear to me that:
AMC7135's switching frequency is slow, so if PWMing them this has to be taken into account: slower PWM frequency (much slower!). I wouldn't go above 2-3KHz to minimize the impact on energetic efficiency.
0K. Time for a brief retreat. 
Cheers ^:)
Originally posted on Thu, 12/08/2016 - 05:35; edited for fixups.
Isn't that what I said?? Don't tell me you are also anal bout capitalization, spaces... 
That's a QLite with the 380 mA 7135's HKJ reviewed - those are the bad ones, stay away from them. I've been using 350's from FastTech now for a long time - much better.
The guy in the link you gave is referring to 350's, not 380's, and says 6 kHz is ideal.
If the driver uses 8 7135, why is it not possible to use for high mode 5, for medium 2
Finally for tuning the mode spacing and low and moonlight the last with pwm?
No, i mean the tail switch, the ‘clicky’.
Especially when you push it a little.
Problem solved, thanks KD.
(and sorry about the off topic)
Tom E, my previous post wasn't explicitly directed towards you.
You said “9.4 kHz phase-correct PWM or 18.75 kHz fast-PWM”, while my question was “You mean 9.375KHz phase-correct/18.75KHz fast PWM, Tom E?”. It was aimed to explicitly comfirm the lower frequency was exactly half of the first one (and their interrelation, as I didn't knew yet what the difference between both signals was about).
I know nothing with regards to “bad” 380mA 7135s.
If binning is all the difference between 380s and 350s, then their switching behaviour and timing is likely to be exactly the same.
The guy at Pratik Panda can opine whatever he wishes, me too.
I can be anal about anything, if I wish to be so.
I've provided plenty of evidence to demonstrate how wrong is to apply such fast PWM frequencies to a device which needs a whopping 8μs just to turn-on properly. HKJ pointed this out back then, yet no one seemed to care.
Jerommel, aaaah! Interesting for you to say that. Such a behaviour indeed has to do with the fact that the frequencies at which those AMC7135s are switched lay on the audible range. Some sort of reverberation is likely to happen somewhere inside those tail clickies. 
Cheers ^:)
Originally posted on Thu, 12/08/2016 - 13:03; edited for fixups.
The DTP triple parallel board is available now:
2 for 2.98 $US
The short answer is because there are no PCB’s for it.
Silly isn’t it?
The TripleDown and TexasAvenger use a FET for Turbo and 1-6 7135’s for high mode, then PWM’d for lower modes. It is a bit of a compromise mainly limited by space on the board and the amount of pins (8) your common Attiny has to offer. Of those 8, normally one is used for power, one for ground, one for mode switching, one for programming via clip, one for voltage detection, and the other 1-3 for controlling the output regulators.
I think MikeC has done essentially what you are thinking of Lexel, but it didn’t make much buzz because it is a little complicated.
See here:
I may have misunderstood this, but i thought FET drivers are not constant current or current limited?
It just PWMs full blast, doesn’t it?
And aren’t there FETs in a 7135?
My question is actually: what’s the voltage drop over a FET and over a 7135?
if it’s almost the same i would prefer 7135s.
Switched on in banks of 1, 2, 4 and 8 for total of 15 x 7135 or 1, 3 and 9 for total 12 x 7135 or 1, 2 and 4 for 7x…etcetera…
Check the link
Thanks ! 