It’s probably just a personality somewhere, see’s something he wouldn’t do that way, changes it, moves it on all smug in his decision and whatdyaknow, doesn’t work. Power play, more or less.
Ok, feeling much more confident now that the grounding of pin #5 is why we cant get the USBASP programmer to flash firmware. I had the pin grounded on one driver - repeatedly tried, but could get it to connect. I was able to cut the trace from pin #5 clean, and now I am able to connect both with the black clip and blue clip.
the MOSI signal used on pin #5 by the programmer is pretty critical. MOSI is output from the USBASP, and MISO (pin #6) is serial input to the USBASP.
Interesting on a 105C, pin #5 is Star 2, so if Star 2 is grounded, same problem I'd think. For Star 3 and 4, they are not used by the USBASP.
This shows where to cut the trace on pin #5. It's tricky, because you still need GND connected to the 4.7k resistor:
Might be hard to see here, but this driver below has the trace cut, but I also cut in between the 7135 GND on the right and the 4.7K, so, had to add a jumper to the 7135 above. I flashed the low byte fuse to 0x75 on this one and all is working properly so far on the bench. Timing of strobes is corrected.
Need to install this in a light and bang on it for a while.
Dunno bout the other problem of getting stuck in a moon mode - hard to relate that issue to this one. It seems like the EEPROM got corrupted, but that doesn't explain it all. Really it should not be run at that high of a speed though - makes the config UI difficult at a minimum.
I'm kind of amazed so many of these lights and drivers have been sold with this flaky fuse setting. The driver with this firmware is a great deal though.
Excellent find Tom! I opened up my clear C8, and even with additional 7135’s stacked I was able to slice that trace to separate pin 5 from ground. Now the timing works fine, changing modes is as it should be. I had already re-flashed the MCU so now all is well. Thanks for finding this, such a simple thing to do to get the firmware fully operational on this light. 
Wait, so just cutting that trace fixes the timing? Or it needs a reflash too? I don’t even have my light yet and may not keep the factory driver anyway, but I’m curious.
Yeah, I was wondering the same thing. I would think cutting the trace just allows you to flash without removing the MCU from the PCB.
You need to cut the trace, then that enables you to flash using the USBASP programmer. The you need to set the low byte fuse to 0x75, and that fixes the timing. Dunno if that's all though - dunno, I did that and installed the driver in a VG-10, but it always seems to have next mode memory. Dunno yet what's goin on with this...
Why does the switch have to be so far deep into the tail cap? I find it more difficult to turn light on and off. It’s almost like you have to use the tip of your thumb,rather than the meaty part.
I wish they would raise the switch. Still lots of room and still be able to tail stand.
I have no problem pressing the button on mine with the meaty part of my thumb. I dont have a depth guage, but it looks like the highest point of the swtich cover sits about a 1/32 of an inch below the rim of the tailcap , at least on mine.
My Clear C8 tail cap is such that I can use the joint of my thumb to activate the switch, no problem using the thumb tip either way.
I just ran through some settings changes and mine works nice and smooth, not fast, not slow, plenty of time to make a selection without being excessive either way. I have last mode memory engaged, works fine, presently using level 2 for the moon mode with 4 more higher levels.
I stacked an extra 6 7135 chips previously, so it’s running very nice now.
I programmed mine once without memory or flashy modes. So far it’s been working great. Basically it’s set and forget. No plans on changing the program.
I will say I like the style of switch boot the astrolux lights use that have a “taller center” section that sticks up a bit compared to the edge of the boot. It seems easier to press in the lights I have it in. Although I like the total size of the convoy boot better (16mm vs 14mm?).
Sorry, I’am a newbie. Can anybody tell me how can I get 15% off for this C8? I click on the link in the first post but cannot see anywhere to pun 15% off code, and who is Simon so I can send him a message?
You need to message Simon on AliExpress and tell him you’re a member here. He will apply the discount to your order.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/330416?spm=2114.10010108.0.0.eHJcnx
Well I thought you are supposed to enter/submit your order, but don't do the last step of paying for it. In the order, add the message to Simon - there should be a place to enter it, and ask for the BLF 15% discount. He then updates the order with the discount, then you pay.
Might take a day or two for him to apply the discount - think you will get an AliExpress notification.
Yes, you’re correct.
As much as I like to support Simon, when he didn’t respond to me after 4 days for the 15% discount, I canceled my order and ended up ordering one from Fasttech for around the same discounted price. I received it in 15 days. Happy to say, it’s the latest version. That being said, I’ve ordered and received several items from Simon with no problems getting the BLF discount. He must have been away?
Mêh… Got an order from Simon stuckin China it seems…
Maybe literally stuck, because it includes 2 magnet rings… 
Quick question… are Convoy C8s from GB (or FT) considered “real” C8s, as in the same innards you’d get directly from Simon? (It’s basically my first store-bought C8 that I’m not going to strip down to pieces and pretty much just reuse as a host.)
I got one from GB, nice NW XP-L HI, nice’n’bright, totally happy about it, well, almost totally. Comes with all the damned blinkies enabled, and it seems the necessary time to get a mode-change to “stick” at first had me worrying that it had next-mode memory. I had to really wait, and still ain’t sure if it needs N sec on-time, or off-time, to get the change to stick. Basically, it doesn’t seem to act the same way pretty much all my other reverse-clickies work. Tap, tap, tap, off, and that last mode sticks. Here, it’s like it almost jumps to the next mode unless I wait loooong enough for the mode I want to stick. Also concerns me that a quick burst of light will also cause a mode-change when I don’t want it.
I know… moan moan moan… but I’m curious if “real” C8s act that way. Just seems… odd.
What color is your driver’s board?
There are some potential issues with the new layout of the new style driver. Tom E has found that pin 5 of the MCU is connected to the ground pin of the 7135 and this is interfering with some timing control. I had re-flashed my MCU with firmware direct from ToyKeeper and while it was somewhat better due to the proper fuses being used in the flash code, it still wasn’t perfect. I then found out about Tom’s findings and opened my Clear C8 back up, sliced (carefully) that trace to eliminate ground to pin 5, and now it works perfectly.
You might want to look at this Y shaped trace coming from pin 5 and address this issue, see what that does for your lights operation.
Edit: For confirmation, this is on the new red board with Bistro Mini (or Biscotti as it’s being called)
Edit II: This information is being looked at by Simon and his people, the holidays are probably going to slow down any response, but corrections, if found necessary, will be made as soon as possible by Convoy.
I think the Clear C8 from GB and BG have the old/traditional Convoy firmware, which isn’t surprising given the overclocking issue with the new firmware.