Brinyte B158 mod thread

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MRsDNF
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I reckon they used these and they are 18mm OD.

https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001999/1250000-copper-17mm-to-17mm...

I could check tomorrow if you like.

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

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kiriba-ru
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Driver size on stock brass pil is 17.9mm.

Meanwhile in Russia: https://twitter.com/CrazyinRussia

Lund1660
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I ordered three extra pills they came with retaining rings. I took a dremal to the wire holes they were a little sharp. Iam waiting for drivers and Led’s from mountain electronics.

luminarium iaculator
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Mike C,

There is no need for retaining ring when it can be easily soldered to pill… Totally unnecessary part.

Well it is necessary in their design… :

Mike C
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Thanks for the info all. My hosts have arrived with DHL, but I won’t be able to pick them up until I’m home again on Friday.

luminarium iaculator wrote:
There is no need for retaining ring when it can be easily soldered to pill… Totally unnecessary part.

I won’t need the ring or need to solder. I just need to change the diameter of my drivers if they are too small. I like to press fit drivers rather than solder, makes replacing them in the future much easier.
luminarium iaculator
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Please report when you’ll have time…

Mike C
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I got my hosts now… I made a dedicated thread instead of posting in this thread: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/48112

Mstevens113
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Subscribed, some interesting ideas forming in my head… Crazy

vidramon
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I see a lot of people use this light with dedomed XP-G2, but does someone try to use this lamp and dedome a original LED ( U4 ) in it ?
If yes how it operate relative to original LED with dome ?

gchart
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I’ve tried it that way, but didn’t leave it. The LED that comes in it (an XM-L2) tightens up and warms up nicely when dedomed. But ultimately, the XP-G2 has a smaller surface area, so it’s beam is even tighter (when also dedomed). I don’t have pictures of the B158 with the dedomed XM-L2, but these pics with a few UF-1504’s (and a B158) side-by-side should provide a nice comparison.

A side note… the original LED comes on an aluminum PCB. If you’re going to drive it harder (say, with a FET driver), you want a copper DTP board. But if you leave the original driver, the aluminum board is fine.

vidramon
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No, I just asking about dedome a led, nothing else I don’t want to experiment for now.
I have HI V3 and U4 version and I like more HI V3 because beam is narrowed and it can reach more distance.

Hmm it is strange, so if I understand well you only dedome a led and do nothing more, and lamp warms up more than before you dedome it ?

Rufusbduck
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Yes, dedoming alters the tint.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Boaz
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vidramon wrote:
No, I just asking about dedome a led, nothing else I don’t want to experiment for now.
I have HI V3 and U4 version and I like more HI V3 because beam is narrowed and it can reach more distance.

Hmm it is strange, so if I understand well you only dedome a led and do nothing more, and lamp warms up more than before you dedome it ?

warm meaning a warmer tint ,,,, not hotter temperature … cool white neutral white warm white

καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

vidramon
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I don’t think so, he never mentioned colour temperature of the led.
As far as I understand lamp is warmer when led is dedomed.

gchart
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Haha… It’s like the others said. Color temperature is affected by dedoming. Doing so has no affect on the actual temperature (heat)

vidramon
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OMG Facepalm
I read some posts where people dedome a led, and I have never read that flashlight was hotter after that so I found it strange when you say that, but obviously I did not understand well.

It is not important to me if colour temperature changes, only thing that I want to know is a beam of the light narrowed and can it gain more throw ?

With U4 when full zoom there is nothing but clear hotspot ( square ), and with HI V3 there is a ring around hotspot ( square ). Is this also a case when you dedome a U4 do you remember ?

vidramon
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FacepalmCrying

luminarium iaculator
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Why are you crying? If you are white wall hunter just buy reflector light and enjoy on a nice wall beam pattern.

Aspheric beam mostly has those ringy imperfections around die. They can be eliminated… If you want pure square beam than use black oven paint or similar and apply lightly and precise.

I even enhance reflection around sqare (flood) in my builds and while it ain’t look nice on a wall I really don’t care for that. I really care how it throws at nigth an if I can get usable flood out of it.

There are even reflector – aspheric flashlight combinations out there with even more ringy beam like this:

vidramon
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This from your picture looks awesome Cool

I cry because that pic is result of ‘‘dedoming’‘ a led, if it can be called dedome, because I screwed up.
Original led was clear and without anything just pure little square, also a fabric V3 HI is clean and pure, and then look at my result Sad

There is visible some marks like + and dot also too many residues from the dome, it look pretty ugly. When I watched on YT about dedoming it was easy and fast, but in my case not at all.

LightRider
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vidramon wrote:
This from your picture looks awesome Cool

I cry because that pic is result of ‘‘dedoming’‘ a led, if it can be called dedome, because I screwed up.
Original led was clear and without anything just pure little square, also a fabric V3 HI is clean and pure, and then look at my result Sad

There is visible some marks like + and dot also too many residues from the dome, it look pretty ugly. When I watched on YT about dedoming it was easy and fast, but in my case not at all.

Those are just common reflections. The dome blocks those reflections. After dodo mint it is normal. Your dedome doesn’t look bad at all shining on the wall.

vidramon
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Does this stock driver in b158 ( nanjg 105C ) work well if I replace HI V3 with XHP35 HI ?

Something like THIS ?

sac02
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XHP-35 are all 12V, so I do not think so without an appropriate boost driver.

There are a few boost drivers but none that I have seen in 17mm size.

Here is a 22mm on KD. Or Google search LD-51 driver.

Also TaskLED has a couple options but they are large and very expensive ($40 USD).

vidramon
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Does any of you try a XHP35 HI in this light ?
I have one body and want to try XHP35 HI in it, but I’m curious does anyone try it yet ?

Mike C
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vidramon wrote:
Does any of you try a XHP35 HI in this light ?
I have one body and want to try XHP35 HI in it, but I’m curious does anyone try it yet ?

Did you read the post just above yours? Finding a suitable driver for a 12V LED in a B158 is apparently not so easy.
vidramon
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Ok, no problem, I just aks if someone managed to find it or to make it and to try it, I want to know how it will work.

Jerommel
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Should have known about this thread before!
On page one there’s the problem of the floating driver board, which in my case caused flickering.

So i did the obvious:

Double (but a little thin) springs upside down.

Looking for:

5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

(I’ll be back around the 28th)

sac02
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I see a copper wire around the neck of the pill – is that a spacer to get the pill closer to the lens (for wider flood I assume)?

How does it affect the tightness/focusing of the spot?

Jerommel
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sac02 wrote:
I see a copper wire around the neck of the pill – is that a spacer to get the pill closer to the lens (for wider flood I assume)?

How does it affect the tightness/focusing of the spot?

Yes, you assumed correctly. Smile
It doesn’t affect the focussing zoomed in, the head stops at the LED shelf of the pill, it moves past the copper ring (1.8mm diameter wire).
Planning on adding a bit more, because i like it when you can zoom out as far as possible and have a wide flood.

Looking for:

5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

(I’ll be back around the 28th)

Jerommel
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Speaking of zoomed in and focussing, i replaced the 1mm thick copper DTP MCPCB with a 1.6 mm thick one (Noctigon) so that it does no longer “over-zoom” but stops at focal distance of the lens.
So in all zoomed out has the lens now 1.8 + 0.6 = 2.4 mm closer to the LED than how i bought it.
(changed the switch too, it’s a reverse clicky now, and recessed the boot a bit so it can tailstand better)

Looking for:

5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

(I’ll be back around the 28th)

zipelgas
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Just wanted to share me slim edition mod. I very happy how it turned out..
b158_slim.jpg

Overkill is just about enough!

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