Even just assuming that the 1420lm is with a dedomed S4 XP G2, the 800lm on 1mm area die should still be better than the 1420lm on 2.1mm area of the XP-G2, right?
EDIT- ok so I read djozzâs post wrong, the one that is NOT higher than the XP-G2 is the XP-E2, the black flat IS higher than the XP-G2
When talking about XP-E2: â(edit:I was wrong here, after a suggestion by chouster, a quick calculation learned that an S4 XP-G2 reaches a higher surface brightness when at max)â
When talking about the flat black: â(edit: also higher than a S4 XP-G2)â
So that clears things upâŚ
Now the question is, can I pay someone to reflow a bunch of flat blacks onto copper stars? plz
Yes, it increases just the same. This also the why you only need one precise luminance value and a standard lumens graph like the one from djozz. You can calculate all the the other values.
lumens/mm^2 is generally ok (for de-domed LEDs), but you need to be really precise! Also you canât use this value to actually calculate the throw of light (you can do this with the actual luminance value).
Perfect, thanks.
Unfortunately I donât have an integration sphere to compare the lux between LEDsâŚ
Do you think just running them at 4A and picking the one that shows highest on my luxmeter will work just as well?
Iâm not trying to find out the lumens, or the curves like djozzâs graphs, just the one with highest intensity, since they would all be the exact same led.
You donât need special equipment. A stove top and a pie tin will do. Pre tin the star using a soldering iron and heat in the pie tin until the solder melts and the led settles into place.
Well, I think someone whoâs done if for years will be able to do it better than meâŚ
I donât want some ugly burnt piece of copper, I like how clean the ones I buy are
Yeah I toasted a few but the learning curve is pretty steep and if you practice on the ones you want to replace it doesnât come at any great price. Hint: it doesnât take enough heat to burn the silk mask. Waiting sucks, I have a bunch of LEDs and mcpcbâs and the hardest part is remembering which direction to install them.
@ Enderman & The_Driver: in Germany the flat was tested at 250cd mm^2, but that was including optics. Without it should be even better.
@ Djozz: no worrie, no hurrie mate. Just make sure you get enough of them to satisfy my modding needs
It looks as if this Oslon will be able to take the pencil beam throwers a good bit further the the XP G2âs. :+1:
and without tint shift!! :+1: :+1: :+1:
I wouldnât count on them reaching much higher values. Photographic optics like the one he used in the test have very little transmission losses (should be in the single digit percent range). The problem with his measurement of the LED without optic is that he didnât account for any of the stray light from the LED. It bounces off of the surroundings and also hits the sensor of the light meter which makes the measured value higher than it really is.
Using an optic reduces the amount of stray light and the the much higher measured lux values greatly reduce the effect of any remaining stray light.
I would use 250-255cd/mm^2 as the baseline for any calculations.
Hey, interesting emitter!
Just requested a quote from RS (UK) for 5 pieces of Black Flat v1.2 5500K, but i read Djozz is waiting for v1.3 high CRI?
Either way, subbed to this threadâŚ
Ehm, not sure what you mean, Jerommel. AFAIK the current Black Flat is the latest one, it only comes in one tint and there is not a new version announced.
I am waiting for the high CRI 3rd generation Oslon Square (is out now but no one sells it in small quantities yet), if that is what you refer to?