I was reading how there seems to be trouble with these staying on high with the FET. I purchased two of these and they both have the exact same problem symptoms. One is connected to a triple 219B and the other is connected to a quad XPG2.
In normal mode I will cycle through the modes and when it gets to the high mode it flickers then drops to moon. If I put it on muggle mode which is reduced output it works fine.
What’s the deal here? Not a clue on how to fix these or just pony up the dough for the quality Mountain Electronics FET+1 drivers.
It is fully charged HE4 in the nichia triple. I don’t have the quad on me but I would guess I wouldn’t run anything less than 30Q depending on what I had laying around when I pulled one from my collection
Just got an S41S in today, X6 driver…
swapped another 18650 tube and a 30Q into it to test it. New X6 are different. It does go to high mode and as it gets hot, they now kick all the way down to moon. I tried to get it back up to high but it does 2 quick flashes and back to moon. Never did let it get cooled down to see if it will go back to turbo… but now I am wondering if it is still doing that, even cooled off.
My bad, first test was with a tube and lighted tailcap, making it act stupid.
Just ran the new S41S head on another S41 with no lights in the tail and it’s fine. Does kick back to moon but I am still able to get it back to turbo. But then I can’t touch it
But all that makes me think… Did you bypass the springs in the drivers and switches? Not the battery but non-bypassed springs will limit the current same as a weaker battery.
At least with the 219B it is in a reylight TI I host with a kaidomain copper DTP board. Didn’t touch the driver as it came out of the package. Threaded the leads through the two holes in the pill and soldered them to the board with thermal paste too and screwed in the retaining ring. Then screwed the setup into the host. Turning on the light and scrolling through the modes the 100% FET mode 7 skips. Didn’t touch the driver at all.
I see you have the more premium version where the knurling matches. Excellent looking build
I have a triple 5700k 219b with the X6 from BG. Honestly not sure what there is to mess up for a beginner such as myself. My thought is either I’m missing something which is likely or BG started using crap components. From now on I’ll go MTNe but the price is hard to ignore. The fact that 2/2 had the same issue means either I messed something up or there is something wrong with QC. Trying to figure out which.
Premium version… LOL. It took some work to get the blocks lined up. It is very slightly off again. Had it perfect but after 3+ tightenings it went too far again.
BG has always used low end components on the drivers. The Caps are notorious to get wacky after getting warm, causing the mode changes to be inconsistent. I got a pile of the A6 drivers for $3.63ea but only use them for single emitter builds. The later version X6 actually does have better copper traces but they changed the FW.
Do get the MtnE Fets and Bistro is programmable for thermal, not timed.
definitely bypass the driver springs. I just strip a wire and stuff it under the spring where the winding ends. Some Flux and hit it w/ solder. Compress a slight bit intot he spring and stripp the top end. Fray the wires out and flux, solder to top of spring. Once you get a MtnE driver you will learn a new trick after looking closely. The Neg wire he does bridges over to the back of the plate on the Fet. His new Fets have the center hole to get Pos direct to spring. Makes nice compressed clearance if needed, especially in the Rey Ti1. That one is tight on Cell length and I made it less using a glass lens on top of optic. Oh and an o-ring too.
I am not entirely sure I got the switch assembly correct. Retaining ring>PCB with switch>metal washer>rubber boot>Ti button>Retaining ring. This feels odd and not great but I have gotten used to it. Was a bit of a puzzle when I first received my host.
Re: MTN I also bought a TI II host that I put a XPL HI 3000k 80CRI triple in, that has a MTN-17DDm (accidently ordered with BLF A6 :cry: ) and that works flawlessly.
I bought these hosts in the great prototype sell off Rey had so I was expecting the knurling to not line up and it does not line up by a lot haha.
Banggoods Blf X6 driver has well known problems with high currents. Spikes from the FET reset the mcu, and instead going to highest level it starts at lowest level again. Mtn FET+1 drivers are said to be better but you can also modify Banggood drivers for better experience. Usually an additional 10uF capacitor above the existing cap (where the red cable connects, next to the diode) is sufficient.
Ti1 switch order sounds right. Mine is hard to press but it works. Took a few tries to get it to even click, adjusting retaining ring pressure and cutting a little slice off the rubber boot nipple.
Getting the blocks to align is not at all hard. I used 400 grit paper on a hard flat surface. Sand the tail (switch section) to shorten and frequently try to see how far you are getting. Stop about 5 degrees from full alignment. A couple more tightenings over time will seat it perfectly.
Got the Ti2 X6 also. Battery tube seems to have been Knurled and ground off. Mine now looks premium version as I spent some time making the tube nice and smooth again. Also matched the brushed look of the finish on all parts. Still havent completed that light yet, though. Will be XP-L HI but want to try another tint. How do you like the XPL-HI-U3-3K? Outa stock atm. Curious about the coloring on the outer ring through the optic.
I have built X6 in V2 5A2 (too Orange) and 3B. Now looks like Richard has the 3C. First was 3A and sold out, 3B and now 3C. Built an S2+ in 3A and like it. Also good on the 3B in the X6 and SS. Keeping the grid on optic and one with grid sanded off and polished smooth. Like the look of the polished optic but it throws a funny pattern (artifacts) on the outside of the spot.
