Lets Talk Tints

Thank you for kind words………I enjoy my convoy lights too, in fact one of my longest used is the m2 in a 4c tint(my 1st warmer tint) which is my glove box light.

Not too long back(maybe 3+ yrs) most if not all my lights in use where cool or angry blue cool(knew no different). These days 5000k i find a nice balance, EDC uses maybe 4000-5000k. I still dont mind cools, as long as not too cool. Throwers i am fine with ~6000k but night time/tired eyes i like it a little warmer as it makes my eyes strain less.

I enjoy the 4500k of the nichia 219B around (in/out) the house, which is with me as i type.

“Angry blue cool” hahahahah. The gateway for every flashaholic. Again with more pics of the beautiful lights. Always appreciated.

Thank you, here are some of my work lights(yes i am crazy and have about 10 in my tool box). 3 triples all in solarforce hosts(L2T stainless/L2T/P1D), nichia 219C on the left, nichia 219B in the middle and the xp-g2 triple far right. The latter hardly gets used, its cool and ok, just not as nice to the eye as the others. More beat up as it had the nichia in before.

Just like to have options, break it up a little…………even more so if a mundane job!

as an fyi

one of the reasons CRI (R1-R8) is not the final measurment is because the test omits the range R9-R14. R9 is red and R13 is “flesh tone” did you know that R1-R8 are pastels?

When we speak about good thrower flashlight we must consider energy of foton and frequency of light.
In this case warm light has advantage when we have moisture, dust, smoke etc. in air.

I dont like angry blue

around 5K looks a lot better

but still between 1A tints from Cree there are differences

even if the light looks very nice there is always a bad tint around the hotspot on domed LEDs

The pictures show perfectly what the deal is with low CRI light versus higher CRI light.
Maybe for colour blind people there is nothing to compare.

Hmmm…
Our perception is relative for sure, but our reality is consistent and common. :wink:

Unless photo was color calibrated, the colors seen in the picture are not the same colors seen by human eyes when the picture was taken. But people who can’t wrap their mind around this simple fact are welcome to go ahead and compare them anyway.

Actually, even color-calibration won’t capture the full color space that the human eye sees. For example, RGB monitors (or images) can never show a true yellow color, such as a dandelion flower. Yellow on a monitor will always appear somewhat greenish.

I also find that images tend to exaggerate the tint imperfections more than what my eyes see. Cree LED tints will look greener than they really are, for example.

That said, it’s still quite useful to see images of tints, side-by-side, for comparison. If gives us an idea what the color will look like in person, and if nothing else it gives us a worst-case.

It’s not a matter of getting your head wrapped around your opinion.

I think we, the customers should stop buying cool white lights.
We must teach companies what to put inside.
Unfortunately 90% from people are not familiar with this.

Yeah, but for some reason, newbies tend to actually prefer cool white. And non-flashaholics make up the vast majority of the market.

The best we can hope for is that good companies will produce some neutral tints (or warm), along with their standard cool white. Which is what we’re getting, for the most part. It’s certainly better than a few years ago.

Fo’ shizzle, my nizzle.

The human aye does have the ability to “adapt” to changing light conditions. Classic example being horribly blue snow. Snap a pic of a snowscape which looks like perfectly white snow to you when taking the shot, and yet the pic will pretty much show mounds of blueberry Sno-Cones.

Or anything in white (eg, a house) that’s in shade, when warm sunrise/sunset light makes everything look orange. Fascinating pic where directly-lit things are orangey, yet the white house in shade looks blue!

What I’ve personally experienced, though, is looking at woodgrain furniture and whatnot, under CW light, and to me it looks dull bluish-gray, but after switching to a 4300K light (non-high-CRI), those reds and browns just “pop”.

2000K (candlelight) makes for great mood-lighting. Yeah, everything looks orange, but at the end of the day, in the dark except for a 2000K emitter (or coupla candles), it just feels good.

Horrible color-rendition, yeah, but it feels good.

If you take a nice 50W halogen light, and put a light green filter on it (say 10%), when you walk into the room everything will look greenish, of course. But after being there a while (and adapting), you’ll see colors more or less normally, and will be able to discern blue from red from yellow just fine.

With a heavily saturated green filter, you might as well be lighting the place with a green LED, and everything will look green regardless.

That’s why in the previous example I gave, snow (in shade or even at night) will look just plain white, while pix of said show will show them to be horribly blue.

Because the damnfools want “LED” light, and to not look like Yet Another Incandescent.

Same principle applies to those blue headlights…

Truth.
And the reason is because our eyes prefer worm tint when lux (lumens) are at low levels.

A friend sent me what might become the ultimate tint snob's argument

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/labs/articles/27751961