When you’re trying to program it the blinks are almost too fast to deal with. It’s doable, but tricky. When properly done there should be plenty of time to respond in the configuration mode.
Yeah, you have to be really quick to program it since the flashes are running double-time. It may take a couple tries because of that but as long as you aren’t looking for a mode with blinkies there isn’t much downside really. It’s just that because of what TK surmised and Tom confirmed is an incorrect fuse setting the clock speed is doubled. You won’t notice anything out of the ordinary until you try to use a blinky mode or config mode. It’s still a very nice driver even now if you don’t want disco modes.
So, what is the verdict? I’d like to buy one of these new clear anodized lights, but I don’t want to be disappointed and I don’t want to have to repair it. Are they all bad, or just a few? Should I wait weeks or months and probably lose interest? Are all of the lights with faulty drivers still sitting on the store shelves? Are they being recalled/repaired? If they are being sold with faulty drivers, why are they still asking full price?
Any advice?
If you dont want to reprogramm the driver it works fine.
Aside from everything working faster, and low modes being a bit brighter than expected, I have no issues with the new firmware on my C8 and three S2. The new firmware is a huge improvement over the previous C8/S2 user interface.
Read the thread from the beginning then decide for yourself.
I did read the topic as it went along, but i’m still wondering what to do too…
I think i’ll wait for the problems to be solved, but that would mean the old stock has to be sold first…
I just received my clear C8 last Friday and it has the problem driver. It took 5 or 6 attempts to get to the configuration mode but from there, mode selection was straightforward and now it’s setup as I like it and works perfectly. I doubt I’ll change between modes often so I’m happy with it.
Just for clarification, is this a firmware issue or hardware issue or both?
From the research I did on 5 sample drivers, it's the programming of the fuses that was done incorrectly. So the main problem is not hardware or firmware, but how manufacturing programmed the fuses, which in turn effects the firmware.
They used these values: http://www.engbedded.com ATtiny13A LOW = 0x7A HIGH = 0xFF
But they should have used: http://www.engbedded.com ATtiny13A LOW = 0x75 HIGH = 0xFF
If you can follow those linked pages, the difference is doubling of the clock rate of the ATtiny13A for what they used at 9.6 Mhz, while the rate should be 4.8 Mhz.
Going back through this thread, many find the current double speed version still very functional, useful, and better than others out there. Sure, would be nice if they were programmed at the correct speed, then the configuration will be easier, strobes and blinks operate as intended, etc., but it's still a pretty powerful, nice UI as-is.
I read the entire thread before I posted anything. I think it’s pretty sad that they are still asking full price for all those lights on the shelves with defective hardware. No warning, no disclaimer, nothing.
I think I’ll look at Convoy a little different from now on.
People keep saying they are defective yet I have only seen reports of what, 4 maybe 5 people with a truly defective driver that didn’t work?
The rest are running faster then planned but otherwise work fine. The only issue that most would notice if it was not pointed out to them is that programming requires much more precise timing then it should.
If not programming the driver though then you will not notice any issues for the most part.
If you happen to get a truly defective driver Simon has sent out free replacements to all the ones that have reported such as issue that I know of.
I honestly don’t know why people even worry about this unless they plan to reprogram it on a regular basis? I personally set it and forget it on my lights.
Yeah its not working as it was designed, but it does still work. The world is full of products that don’t quite meet the specs as designed, but are still a good product. And yes, I’ve got one of the lights. I’m really not sure I would’ve even known there was an issue if this thread hadn’t been here. Its a good light, as-is.
emakd - that is true, and it’s also what makes this website great. With all the cheap Chinese junk that is being produced and sold, it’s great that there is a forum like this one to help sort out the true bargains from the garbage.
It’s also great that there are some manufacturers that have risen to the top of the budget flashlight world that can be trusted based on reputation alone.
Maybe I am judging Convoy a little too harshly about this small matter, or maybe I expect excellence too often. Either way, I’m only one person and I’ll surely get over it. Lots of choices out there.
Well, one solution is to swap your driver. MTN offers a few with different UI like Bistro and Guppydrv. It would only cost $5 or so.
Or for $5 get yourself a USB flashing kit and reflash the driver with the correct fuses and enjoy it and any other lights you may want later.
That’s all it costs? Tell me more.
Yeah, depends on where you shop but right around $5 is what I paid.
This thread outlines the process and items you need.
I got the USBASP off ebay for $2.xx, the soic8 clip for another 2.xx off ebay. Then the ribbon cable I won for like $.50 cents at auction on ebay.
Then all you need in a computer with a USB port (heck might even be able to do it on an andorid phone now days, although I have no idea if that is actually possible).
To flash a pre-built hex file such as the bistro files for the Texas Avengers drivers or TK’s biscoti hex you simply run AVRdude and don’t even have to install anything.
Now if you want to edit the firmware that gets a bit more complex but still not super hard. Although it will take more then novice level computer skills.
Naw, I paid a bit more for mine (socket and the usb part), but that was supposed to be for DIYing. Like I said, and people’ll probably think I’m just bitching over nothing, but I just wanted one off-the-rack light to work the way I want, without having to strip down and rebuild.
I got a bunch of 105Ds (with the annoying blink-on-low to switch 3/5 mode-groups) that I was going to reflash to 100% only, but with LVP and maybe stepdown. I don’t intend to ever let the battery get that low, but then again, just yesterday my S2+ did just that, and I don’t recall using it all that much, let alone on high.
But then I’m back to DIYing…
I really want a clear C8… but I want one that operates as designed. I know I can replace the driver, but when will I be able to purchase a properly working clear C8?