Interesting results, like I said the best I ever tried was a sliced dome and was simply not impressed. I only tried it in 2 lights though and those I didn’t try that hard.
True, most ppl count it as garbage yet i`ve found its better than most( nearly all) Hi emitters at 2.8 amps in C8, X6 or so look alike lights, 150 lumens less yet it throws better, the tint is good and i have like 60-80 of those luying arround doing nothing ( came from various flashligt used as hosts)
They cant hold high amps though
Surprisingly not really, although the tint was really not part of the test, just noting the tint of the LED for comparison purposes.
I have had real Cree’s with worse tints, I got 23 Skyray kings earlier this year and out of them only 3 had real Crees but tint wise 1 of them was no batter and if anything worse the most of the latticebright. The LB LED’s also varied a lot between lights, some had a fairly reasonable cool tint such as this LED and others had a much worse tint.
I even had one LB with a reasonably neutral tint.
Another thing I noticed is that the tint seems to improve as you drive them harder (well until they start turning blue due to heat anyways).
For the record, I am not defending the Latticebright LED’s, simply testing them and reporting the findings.
I was just referring to the drop off above 4A, that seems low compared to Djozz’ tests. Poor thermal conductivity between the die and heat pad might explain that and not be surprising from a knock off emitter.
Yeah, the thermal resistance in these is most assuredly much higher then real Cree emitters. In fact I would say that is by far the largest difference. If the thermal performance was better I bet it could match the XP-G2 that is should be competing against.
The reflow should be good, same way I do all of mine although anything i possible. If I feel like it I might run this one up till it pops and replace it with another and then test the new one.
Even with the drop off, up until then it has a lower Vf and slightly higher lumen output than the XPG-2, at least when well sinked. The question is whether the higher thermal resistance will nullify that in the less perfect sinking of a host where heat does build more quickly.
I’ve got a couple of cheap “diving” lights that had magnetic switches and Latticebright XML clones. The drivers went out, so I put a regular buck driver into one of them, since the battery tube was 2S and the emitters were wired parallel. Several weeks later, I forgot that I’d taken the buck driver out and replaced it with a blank contact board, because the buck driver was acting weird. I put a couple 18650s in it and turned it on. To my surprise, the LEDs were fine that way. They lit up as normal, not even turning angry blue like the Real Cree’s do when you over power them. I played with it like that for a few minutes with no apparent adverse affects. Has anyone else ever seen a 3V Latticebright XML running on 8.4V and surviving?
Very strange that it survived at 8.4V. I have killed a few even with a single high drain cell actually, although they were in badly heat sinked hosts, still death was only a matter of seconds after turn on.
I think one of the largest issues with the LB LED’s is quality control. The quality varies massively from LED to LED. This can be clearly seen with tint variations it makes sense it would also apply to output as well.
i have some decent lb xm-l knockoffs.
i suspect they can make good stuff but like any other mfr the more expensive bins do not go in cheap lights.
was very surprised to get 3 matching pure white 5000k ish lb in a cheap light.