i’m curious about the beam of 375$ xp-g2 flashlight
Jerommel Thing is, if I was to buy that, I would have no idea as to what my next step should be…?
Swap the LED on star. 
But i take it you’re not into modding?
For the rest, i don’t know what the LED choice of McGizmo is.
Maybe they use high CRI Cree.
And sorry to derail your topic.
Yes Don does use hi cri, his fav is the 119 of which many still today prefer over the 219. Not sure if the 119 is still available or not, but do know he is fastidious in his choosing of LED and wont just try the latest xpl etc etc . Its not for highest output, 200, maybe 300lm tops(bare in mind its a small ti light), early ones were a little over 100lm…………its about beam perfection for EDC uses. So it wont be for everyone, but for ones who want this, its a very good option for an investment.
Here is a snippet of some thoughts/info back in 2014 if interested
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?378217-Cree-XP-G2-added-to-the-line-2014
Apologies for distractions, hope of some use towards any potential buyer to what goes into these lights.
GLWTS, which imho is a bargain, and clearly a good loss for what your asking before import duty!!!
Seasons greatings :+1:
Jerommel: Not that I’m not into modding, but I just don’t have the knowledge on what/how to do it.
ven: The tint on the XPG2 is rated at 4500k temp, and so is the 119 from what I know, is there that much difference between the two?
Since realising I enjoy neutral tints, I can’t actually stand to use the XM-L2 Haiku, it’s way way too cool white for me. Wish I had realised before I had ordered it.
Not addressed to me, but I can offer my opinions. I haven’t said much about it yet, but following our other conversation about McGizmo’s a couple of weeks ago I ordered one. I went with the 119 for a couple of reasons, namely that I’d never had one before and High CRI is definitely something I care about. So I’ve had a 119 Haiku for about a week now. McGizmo fulfills his orders FAST.
First off I’ll say that the 119 that McGizmo is using literally may be the nicest tinted emitter I’ve ever seen. Not an exaggeration. Its super creamy white, probably about 4800K, supposedly ~94CRI, no off-colors at all, and tons of red. Really, reds pop in this emitter more than anything else I own, and I’ve got lots of 219b and 219c lights. Its the closest thing to sunlight I’ve ever seen. Before I had this emitter I would have said that my SW45 219b triple was about perfect, but really this 119 makes better light.
BUT WAIT, there’s a big catch — this thing is dim. Like, it really feels underpowered in a way that other lights I have don’t. Don’s specs say to expect 172 lumens on high so I wasn’t expecting much to start with, but I’ve got other lower powered lights, like an HDS HCri200, which make plenty of light, but I was really pretty disappointed with the output of this McGizmo. I put it in my blf sphere to check for myself and I got exactly the same number - 172 lumens, so good on McGizmo for that. But it really doesn’t seem like 172 lumens. Maybe its the really dim spill, I don’t know. I got the HIVE driver, so I was able to program it up to 1.2 amps which measures 205 lumens and that helps. Not exactly a barn burner though.
So for comparison I went back to Don’s listings on cpf. His numbers put his XP-G2 at ~50% more efficient, so if my light had an XP-G2 in it, I would expect ~300 lumens. It would be a lot lower CRI though, and you run more risk of Cree’s rainbow. A quick check of djozz’s testing shows that a 219b would probably be capable of similar numbers at 1.2 amps, but it would be a much cleaner tint. A 219c at 1.2 amps should approach 400 lumens of super clean High-CRI light.
So for me, the ideal setup for a Haiku would be a high-cri 219c — super nice light (maybe not quite as nice as the 119, but very nice) and tons of output. But Don doesn’t offer that.
There’s one other consideration though — the 119 only has a 2-pad mounting so you can’t reflow a newer emitter onto the original mcpcb. If I had known that beforehand I probably would not have ordered it. If I had it to go back and do again I’d order the XP-G2, but only so I’d have the right board for reflowing a 219c. Now I’m stuck hunting parts to upgrade my light like I want it, but I’ll get there.
All kinda off topic for this thread though. Good luck with your sale, but it would probably go a lot faster on that other forum.
Djozz has good 119 boards for sale for $2 a piece.
16mm diameter.
emarkd: Thank you very much for that detailed insight. I might try and talk to someone who may be able to offer modding of my XM-L2 to the 219c emitter.
I can mod it. But your reflector is designed for xml2. How about a nice golden xml2 LED?
I can too.
The reflector is a parabola, so how would it be specifically designed for XM-L2?
You could start a topic about it (or in this topic), include some pictures, do it yourself with some advice where needed from BLF members.
I’m curious about what kind of MCPCB the McGizmo uses.
If it’s regular 16 or 20mm it should be an easy swap.
I wish I knew what you were talking about, but not a clue 
This:
is an MCPCB.
A.k.a. ‘star’.
Regular sizes are 16mm and 20mm diameter.
Some brands use custom MCPCBs.
There are also many other sizes on the market.
Either way, it’s where the LEDs are soldered on.
Its neither of those. It measures ~19mm diameter, so not far off a 20, but it has four spots machined into the edge, 90 degrees apart, for mounting. And its mounted firmly. I don’t think its soldered since the pill is made of titanium (I think), but instead I think those 4 machined bits are “pressed” or expanded to hold the mcpcb very firmly. I couldn’t get mine apart without feeling like I was about to destroy it.
But then I was trying to be very careful. I don’t really want to destroy my new expensive light. Someone who’s done it before may know exactly how to get it apart without damage.
I made the decision, instead, to order a replacement can and just build a new light engine from scratch. The “factory” driver cavity is tiny anyway, like ~10mm tiny. That doesn’t exactly make things easy either. So my complete 119 light engine will be kept whole so I can swap it back into the light at any time.
Still for sale by the way, in case anyone thinks I’m not selling it.
Sold. Thank you.
Glad you got it sold, stops me thinking about it! :laughing:
You are in Scotland too, we could have probably done the deal in person haha!
Glad it sold. Note, the light is easily modded. It’s easiest to use the stock board or you will need to file down a 20mm noctigon to fit. Annoying.
It also fits only 14mm drivers. The pill is hollow with a thick rim. The body is not meant to fit 18mm cells. Overall, it’s not a great modding platform. there are some nice aftermarket options out there but everything is costly.
Note that I’ve had several haikus, modded all of them and sold all of them.
Now I have a modded one again and am likely to keep it.
This is kinda the wrong market. Nice light. Performance does not match the price, but it’s a sweet light nonetheless.