What did you mod today?

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emarkd
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Pretty simple one today: My clear-ano Convoy C8 came in a day or two ago. It came with a translucent tailcap. I don’t know why these manufacturers keep tempting me with these tailcaps. They’re basically begging to be illuminated from within. So I did:

WillyD
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I think I finally figured out a way to illuminate the triple optics in my F13. I cut off a small section of one of those RBG strip lights and pulled the components off. I think they are 0505 LEDs…not sure. Tested all the pads to see where all the traces went then soldered on some smaller LEDs. It tested just fine when I connected it to an 18650, so it should work once I hook it all up. I’ll need to run something up from the driver for this, so need to figure that out as well.

MRsDNF
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Looks like an interesting plan Willy Hope it all works out and you post some pics. Beer

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

djozz
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Made myself an extra constant light output light for testing purposes: Supfire A6, AK-47C driver with one chip removed=700mA, XP-L U6 5A 80CRI on a KD-DTP-board, big Omten switch. 20 seconds after switch-on it is constant 240 (djozz-)lumen and stays that within 1% for about 10 minutes (still rock stable after that but just falls outside the 1%).

laythaws
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I modded my short convoy s2+ into a triple xpg2 s3 3d and lighted tailcap.


djozz
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Nice triple!
That is a pile of 5 what? under that triple board? Smile

cmflippen
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Interesting spacer. What’s it made from and how does it handle the heat?

steel_1024
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My first triple S2+ and MTN-17DDm driver

Moonlight mode

From left to right:
1. Nichia 219B 90CRI+ (5000~5700K?)
2. CREE XP-G3 5000K 90CRI
3. CREE XP-G3 4000K 80CRI

Sorry for my poor english.

will34
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Nice pictures! Is that a DQG 26650 tiny IV? That was quick!

I see you’re using a LED ring for illumination Big Smile

laythaws
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djozz wrote:
Nice triple! That is a pile of 5 what? under that triple board? Smile

Thanks. That’s 5 1.2mmx15mmx15mm copper shim soldered together with the pill and triple board.

steel_1024
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will34 wrote:
Nice pictures! Is that a DQG 26650 tiny IV? That was quick!

DQG Tiny 26650 III

Sorry for my poor english.

laythaws
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cmflippen wrote:
Interesting spacer. What’s it made from and how does it handle the heat?

That’s 5 1.2mmx15mmx15mm copper shim soldered together with the pill and triple board. Actually when that picture was taken, the noctigon board wasn’t soldered yet to the copper spacer.
It can handle the heat quite well. I ran it on turbo multiple times and still woking fine Smile

staticx57
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Gluing trits

djburkes
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That’s an awful lot of “glue” Wink all over that table.

staticx57
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There’s really no good way to present UV light is there. Big Smile

laythaws
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Another mod for today Smile

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As poor as the ano was on my SK68 I think it looks much better stripped. It looks pretty clean but it’s easier to see that the knurling is slightly skewed and spirals around the tube. I think it will look better once polished but it would still be nicer if there were a halfway decent host to start with.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

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Upgraded with an xp-g3 1a, awesome keychain light.

₪₪₪₪ ΟΥΔΕΝ ΚΡΥΠΤΟΝ ΥΠΟ ΤΟΝ ΗΛΙΟ ₪₪₪₪

My YouTube channel

Flashlights & edc gear

K40M F16

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Darn CRX!! that looks sweet.

My “Mod” today is an under cabinet light for Mom. 12V DC 5630 SMD double thin (5mm wide) strips of WW, Dimmable.

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Lumintop Prince SS triple Nichia 219C 4000K (from KD)
High CRI, narrow Carclo 10507, Convoy driver (new firmware) with 5 modes and memory.
I love it now Big Smile

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djozz
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Today I fixed a BLF-X5/X6 driver from dropping out of turbo.

 

In another thread I asked how to fix the BLF-X5/X6 driver from dropping out of turbo in a hight drain triple and I was lucky to get an answer from DEL Smile , it may have been mentioned elswhere on BLF but I had not read it before :

djozz wrote:
DEL wrote:
The inductance of the wiring/conductors to the LEDs also makes a difference. Higher amps and higher inductance both makes the FET switching 'spikes' worse. Probably why it is more obvious on a triple where we have both high amps and more convoluted emitter conductors.

Even in an 'average' setup the MCU is getting some ugly stuff on its supply pins with these drivers. I am surprised it works as well as it do (or even at all!) and that there are not more damaged MCUs.

I had problems with the BLF-X6 driver in triples, but all BLF-A6 drivers thusfar worked fine.

Is there a way to 'fix' existing BLF-X6 drivers from Banggood by adding or swapping components? (I can not flash software). Because I do like the UI very much.

 

DEL wrote:
djozz,

Inserting a 2.2 ohm - 10 ohm resistor in between cell+ and the C1/D1 junction will fix the problem. (Stacking C1 is a brute-force method that fixes the symptom, rather than the problem. Tantalum is not great for this, too high ESR.)

You still want to feed the emitter directly from the cell+. IIRC the layout of the X6 driver makes this tricky, but I am sure you will find a way  Smile .

(On some drivers TomE's 'tombstone' technique works well. Basically you build a little pyramid with Rnew+D1+C1 placed vertically, their junction up in the air.)

 

I have a red S2+ shorty that I converted to 18500 cells and has a lighted tailcap (mod here), it worked fine on an Efest purple high drain 18500 IMR cell, but it had the turbo-drop-to-moon problem on the Sanyo UR18500F and NCR18500A cells that are not so high drain.

 

So today I tried the adding of a resistor between C1/D1 and led+, 'tomb stone style' . The pyramid had to be really shallow because the pill cavity was minimal due to the 18500 conversion, so the solder blob on top was filed down to a minimum. Also, to prevent the touching of the pyramid to the shelf under the ledboard I sticked a disc of Kapton tape inside the pill.

 

 

First I soldered C1 vertical on its ground pad, then I unsoldered D1 from its led+ pad and soldered it leaning against C1. Then the 10 Ohm resistor was soldered between led+ (the old and now vacant D1 pad) and the top of the pyramid. The top was then filed as low as possible without damaging the components.

 

And it worked alright Party , the drop to moon problem is gone now. When entering turbo, the subtle ramping-up that precedes every mode change in Bistro is not as smooth as on the lower levels, but it stays in turbo alright on all cells now.

 

Thanks DEL, I can solder alright, but electronics mostly is magic to me.

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Very welcome djozz!

Good rework there…and nice photo for others to reference Smile Beer

Sirius9
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I am so glad you posted this djozz, I have those drivers that work fine with high current unprotected cells but drop from max when I use protected ncrb cell.

 

emarkd
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I’ve not had this problem with this driver, but most of my experience is with the mtnelec version of this driver. Is it only present on the “chinese” driver that comes in the X5/X6 lights? Or is mtnelec’s version also susceptible and I’m just lucky so far?

staticx57
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Awesome work djozz.

There must be some different versions of these drivers. My C1 is on the opposite side of the board as yours.

Mike C
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Really cool solder work there djozz… that stuff is magic to me Smile

djozz
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Mike C wrote:
Really cool solder work there djozz… that stuff is magic to me Smile

no magic:
1) fine tip 25W solder iron
2) quality pointed tip bended tweezers
3) comfortable stereo microscope (old Olympus Zoom), seeing what you’re doing is everything.
Mike C
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djozz wrote:

no magic:
1) fine tip 25W solder iron
2) quality pointed tip bended tweezers
3) comfortable stereo microscope (old Olympus Zoom), seeing what you’re doing is everything.

Yeah… but you know, all my knowledge of drivers and electronics can be traced back to me absolutely hating having to stack chips Big Smile
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Starting to spec out a few components for a light, a lantern-style light.

I want a dimmer capable light, with 360 degrees output. Right now I am thinking about using some of the little domed LED (something like these) and drive them all off of a single QLITE REV.A. (I really want them to work with moonlight mode, hence the driver).

probably will try to mount the little LED’s on a suitable sized copper pipe…. I know round/flat not great for heat dissipation, but will have to work on that, maybe flat spot the pipe. This would work as I will be working it into a lantern style light.

Power it off of a 18650, possible a few in parallel (I know that’s not great, balance issues)
Not sure how many LED’s, probably at least 4, TBD based on light output, I know the board is limited to about 3amps, and the LEDs are about 450ma each… so call it a max of 6 LED.

Thoughts on this setup? I definitely want a nice warm LED, and since I want 360 degree output, I am looking at multiple emitters.

Interested in any opinions.

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