What did you mod today?

As poor as the ano was on my SK68 I think it looks much better stripped. It looks pretty clean but it’s easier to see that the knurling is slightly skewed and spirals around the tube. I think it will look better once polished but it would still be nicer if there were a halfway decent host to start with.

Upgraded with an xp-g3 1a, awesome keychain light.

FourSevens PK Paladin

Darn CRX!! that looks sweet.

My “Mod” today is an under cabinet light for Mom. 12V DC 5630 SMD double thin (5mm wide) strips of WW, Dimmable.

Lumintop Prince SS triple Nichia 219C 4000K (from KD)
High CRI, narrow Carclo 10507, Convoy driver (new firmware) with 5 modes and memory.
I love it now :smiley:

Today I fixed a BLF-X5/X6 driver from dropping out of turbo.

In another thread I asked how to fix the BLF-X5/X6 driver from dropping out of turbo in a hight drain triple and I was lucky to get an answer from DEL :-) , it may have been mentioned elswhere on BLF but I had not read it before :

I have a red S2+ shorty that I converted to 18500 cells and has a lighted tailcap (mod here), it worked fine on an Efest purple high drain 18500 IMR cell, but it had the turbo-drop-to-moon problem on the Sanyo UR18500F and NCR18500A cells that are not so high drain.

So today I tried the adding of a resistor between C1/D1 and led+, 'tomb stone style' . The pyramid had to be really shallow because the pill cavity was minimal due to the 18500 conversion, so the solder blob on top was filed down to a minimum. Also, to prevent the touching of the pyramid to the shelf under the ledboard I sticked a disc of Kapton tape inside the pill.

First I soldered C1 vertical on its ground pad, then I unsoldered D1 from its led+ pad and soldered it leaning against C1. Then the 10 Ohm resistor was soldered between led+ (the old and now vacant D1 pad) and the top of the pyramid. The top was then filed as low as possible without damaging the components.

And it worked alright :party: , the drop to moon problem is gone now. When entering turbo, the subtle ramping-up that precedes every mode change in Bistro is not as smooth as on the lower levels, but it stays in turbo alright on all cells now.

Thanks DEL, I can solder alright, but electronics mostly is magic to me.

Very welcome djozz!

Good rework there…and nice photo for others to reference :slight_smile: :beer:

I am so glad you posted this djozz, I have those drivers that work fine with high current unprotected cells but drop from max when I use protected ncrb cell.

I’ve not had this problem with this driver, but most of my experience is with the mtnelec version of this driver. Is it only present on the “chinese” driver that comes in the X5/X6 lights? Or is mtnelec’s version also susceptible and I’m just lucky so far?

Awesome work djozz.

There must be some different versions of these drivers. My C1 is on the opposite side of the board as yours.

Really cool solder work there djozz… that stuff is magic to me :slight_smile:

no magic:

  1. fine tip 25W solder iron
  2. quality pointed tip bended tweezers
  3. comfortable stereo microscope (old Olympus Zoom), seeing what you’re doing is everything.

Yeah… but you know, all my knowledge of drivers and electronics can be traced back to me absolutely hating having to stack chips :smiley:

Starting to spec out a few components for a light, a lantern-style light.

I want a dimmer capable light, with 360 degrees output. Right now I am thinking about using some of the little domed LED (something like these) and drive them all off of a single QLITE REV.A. (I really want them to work with moonlight mode, hence the driver).

probably will try to mount the little LED’s on a suitable sized copper pipe…. I know round/flat not great for heat dissipation, but will have to work on that, maybe flat spot the pipe. This would work as I will be working it into a lantern style light.

Power it off of a 18650, possible a few in parallel (I know that’s not great, balance issues)
Not sure how many LED’s, probably at least 4, TBD based on light output, I know the board is limited to about 3amps, and the LEDs are about 450ma each… so call it a max of 6 LED.

Thoughts on this setup? I definitely want a nice warm LED, and since I want 360 degree output, I am looking at multiple emitters.

Interested in any opinions.

Copper P60 Quad

ReyLight Ti

H17F

219C 4000K CRI90+

Fixing my friend’s C8 and the LED was peeled off. Need a quick setup to reflow new LED into base plate and here is my setup

I forgot taking picture during the process so I took this pic after everything was done.

Took a minute or so before the tin is melted.

Wow steel_1024 those are some sweet pics and a mod of good taste !

I love the Mc Giverism that you did lumenzilla !

Steel_1024 those pictures are so sharp! The driver looks almost unreal, CGI-like. That optic is about the clearest and cleanest I have seen, even with my own eyes.

Lumenzilla now that’s something new, reflow by flame :smiley:

Hello mate's!

A few week's ago I has finished my first modification.

It's Sipik SK68 clone, that I change:

  • LED: XM-L2 2800K
  • DRIVER: NanJG 105D
  • SOFTWARE: My own with big help from DEL (member of this forum)
  • CONTROL: Microswitch

Features:

  • Soft transitions between modes
  • Soft start and soft off
  • Battery inductor
  • Turbo mode
  • Beacon mode

Here is a video:

- YouTube

I planning to create an article in this forum about this modification,

so more details very soon.

Best regards from Poland!