Just out this driver in a L6 to drive a XHP35 with a 4s 26350 setup.
But stupid mee forgot that it needed 4 batteries in series. So instead I just put 2 normal 26650 in and pressed te button.
Obviously the led didn’t turn on :person_facepalming: .
After putting the 4 26350 in, it still wouldn’t work. Did I ruined it?
Weird part is that wen I touch (with my finger) the negative of the led it glows very slightly. (wet finger makes it glow a little bit more)
Afaik, everything is wired up good. Had to piggy bag it on an orther driver that acts like a contact board.
Yes,that's internal overtemp.,silicone cubes wont help much if they are loose inside of pill,they should be tightly placed in pill (you should feel pressure when placing driver in pill).
Took some time to pull the driver out and put some more silicon cubes in it so it was sandwiched between them.
And after assembly I pressed the switch and nothing happened… Shorted the reflector.
I pulled the reflector out and it worked, unfortunately the modes are gone. I guess the mcu has died.
It did smell like something has burned but I cant see anything weird.
Probably mosfet died(check resistance between led - wire and ground;if it's not in MOhm range,it's dead),there is a possibility that mcu and rest of driver is still fine.
Is there a procedure to switch this driver to e-switch only?
Because a fraction of second after I connect the battery it lights up the led and I don’t want that!
(I only have one (e) switch, no clicky to disconect the battery)
When I connect the battery MTG2 lights up, I press e-switch it goas to sleep and then works regular U1-> low~~mid~~>high->sleap.
Only problem is that it is turning on when I connect the battery, I was really careful when soldering all the wires, I inspected everithing with multimeter and magnifing googles…
P.S Input is 8.4V (2S) additional 3 components for 2S are added, solder bridge on 2, current is default at 6A (it puls about 4.4A from 2 samsung laptop pulls but will be powered by 3P2S pack)
I did not try to switch UI! UI_1 is just what I want but yes, I should have tested that.
It looks like it is 99% powering ON in low mode after connecting battery.
I also tested NTC sensor and … I am not so sure about that, I selected low mode (because LED was not heat sinked) and than stuck my soldering iron under NTC (close but not touching), most of the times nothing happend, sometimes I got some blinks, twice or three times, but no dimmin off or turning off?
I presume that those tiny things looking like smd capacitors are NTC sensors, right? Before main test I soldered NTC and tested resistence with multimeter, I think it drops when I heat it up and vice versa, so it must be NTC I used 22 AWG wires for e-switch and NTC because I don’t have thinner wire.
Edit (several hrs. later): ok I can confirm now that in all UI-s its the same, conecting the battery will turn the light ON in memorised mode and if I accidentaly touch battery contacts twice while connecting or disconnecting it will change mode as if I use regular clicky switch.
Other than described problem rest seems to work fine although I am not certain about NTC as mentioned above, I might desolder one end of NTC and see what will happen.
P.S one thing in UI3 that seems odd: to increase mode you need to double click, well this double click have to be unusually quite fast, not sure if that is intended or something I caused, somehow!
+Just to check somethin+g, could someone tell me what is the value of the resistor that is located between max current set resistor on the left side and capacitor on the right side, underneath is a “To NTC resistor” hole and down left are unpopulated soldering pads!!! Thanks
No, something is definitely off with NTC!
I tried putting on temperature sensor from notebook battery pack and I get several blinks (~5) when turned ON, I presume drever scenes wrong sensor (input data range) but from NTC I get nothing even with soldering iron underneath!
…
Edit, again…
I was checking resistance of NTC and had crazy idea, since values were from ~160 Kohm(cold) to about 70 Kohms (holding it between my fingers) you could use this instead of current resistor more heat -> more amps
LD-2 is designed to be dual switch driver, so led will be turned on when you connect batteries, because driver reads that event as clicky switch press. In future LD-3 e_switch version I will add e-switch only operation.
If you got some blinks while heating NTC,then protection works, but you need to be in mid or high mode to see current/brightness drop.
Connecting unknown ntc resistor would cause unknown driver behavior,of course.
Thanks led4power, finally dilemma is resolved, great, that’s a normal driver behavior, that means it works my soldering skills are OK but for this size components you have to be like, hand-soldering-master level 10
I kinda interpreted tih that you can use clicky switch, e-switch independently or both of them…
LD-3 for e-switch sounds nice, now those holes can be larger Any chance you could make them big enough for header pins
I had idea of making additional board with pins that would just couple with the driver, it would contain large soldering pads and serve as a stress relief for wires.
One question which NTC thermistor do i need for External temperature monitoring? I lost the one that comes with the driver.
But i am ordering from Mouser soon again. So i could easy add a few to my cart.
more heat -> more amps
