Tried it several times , but i will keep trying .
thanks TA
Make sure there are no shorts/bridges on any of the pins as well (or anywhere else for that matter). If there are any issues with the circuit then it can cause issues. Worst case I will remove the MCU and flash it that way, if there are issues in how things work then it is generally a sign of a bridge somewhere. Check under the 7135,s something if too much solder paste is used it will bridge pins to ground or even to nearby vias.
Ok thanks , i will check and report back .
Edit : Changed MCU and managed to flash the firmware without issues , now i will test the driver if it’s working OK .
Thanks again for your help !
TA, when using the triple channel driver as a single side fet+1 how do you handle the pin assignments for the fet? Most fet+1 firmware assign the fet to pin 6 but the triple channel driver has the fet on pi 3.
Do you modify the fet+1 firmware to output the fet to pin 3?
Or do you modify the tripledown firmwares to only output two channels?
Or do you physically modify the driver?
I ran into this this week and found some road blocks each path I chose. Issues with ramping, PWM, hardwiring the outputs. I ended up using a triple stack driver and modified the outputs. Since it is a double board there are traces already connected to solder points. It was a mess but I finally got it working. It didn’t help that it was my first go at an eswitch running narsil.
My version of bistro includes mode groups that only use the FET+1 setup and ignore the backside 7135’s. You simply have to select the correct mode group, IIRC they are like 20-23 although check in the OP.
It basically just sets the mode spacing so that without the bank of 7135’s installed it should give a good mode spacing. It still energizes the bank of 7135’s but this will not hurt anything unless you shorted out the signal pin on the back side. Which should not happen even with larger retaining rings.
I generally find that the simplest option is the best option.
Ok that’s great! I’ll be going that way next time.
True, and speaking of this, do you plan a simplified version of that driver? Single sided, with a modified bistro, lets say memory mode/groups choice and temp protectiononly…cause currently i dont think that anybody here uses more than 2-3-4 modes,personaly i use 3 usualy, sometimes 4 on all my flashlights
Believe or not i have met only 1 policeman that used strobe once in 10 years, the rest just dont use it, most of them even hate it 
Everything you suggested is already possible with these drivers as they are. I designed them with this in mind. I wanted one driver that could do it all.
There are not that many modes currently without the bank of 7135’s but it would be simple to add more. There is no need to change the driver itself to make it single sided, you simply do not install the bottom side 7135’s.
I am also not a fan of strobe modes, which is why they are only included in a few mode sets.
We have another driver in the works that will offer even more options and versatility if I can get the firmware worked out now that TK is MIA.
TA:
I’ve got a couple of basic questions. I’m still learning, so please be as detailed as you would like.
1. If building a S2+ triple, do 7135s fit on the back side of the TA driver? And what advantages would this have over MTN 17DDm?
2. Which size and setup do you recommend for modding a L6 for max lumens and versatility?
1: With a normal 1.6mm thick PCB the backside 7135’s will not fit with the retaining ring but you can solder it in place. I have gone to the thin .8mm PCB’s for 17mm drivers exclusively myself and these are thin enough to allow the retaining ring to be used even with the backside 7135’s.
As far as advantages over the MTN, well the 3rd channel is a big advantage, It is my most used mode personally. It also has the latest component setup that actually eliminates the voltage spiking instead of treating the problem with a zener. Both ways work, I just prefer to stop the issue before it starts. The firmware for this driver has a lot more mode groups as standard.
Overall though both will work equally well in the real world, they are basically the same when it comes to real world use for 95% of people. This driver is just a bit more efficient and has more features that most people will never use.
2: The TA30 LDO is the driver that was made for the L6. I have several PCB’s here that I can sell since they are pricey from oshpark. The issue with them at this point is that Narsil triple is not finished and Tom has not had time to work on it further. It lacks LVP and the ramp is not as smooth as it could be. Also the tailswitch resets the driver instead of simply turning the light off. So you are basically converting it to a e-switch only light until that is taken care of.
Although if you watch your cells closely the driver works great and narsil is lots of fun. The ramping is way nicer then I first thought it would be and with this driver in place my L6 is now making ~6000 lumens with just the driver swap.
So… with these newer low vf leds, are these fets too much for single cell lights? Speaking of nichia 219c cri, xpg3, XPL2? Any thoughts?
The XP-G3 and XP-L2 both work ok with the FET @ 100%. The XP-G3 is a bit overdriven but that is only with a full cell, after a few mins the voltage drops and things are good. The XP-L2 is fine at full power and actually not even making max lumens.
The 219C 90+ CRI on ther other hand will pull over 10A with a high drain cell and 100% duty.
You have a choice, either use low drain cells or knock the duty cycle down to ~80% or so. I knock the duty down and it works fine.
Ok. Thanks. Was wondering this for a while but now I have some 219c cri to try;)
In case anyone is on the fence or about to order some parts, I hear that there is a discount code for Arrow for a short time: ROOSTER17 I have not tried this, but it comes my way via another list that I follow and trust.
Yes, they advertise this on the site as well, I just saw it a little bit ago. I think I might grab a few more XP-L2 80cri 4000K LED’s, I put one in an M1 and REALLY like it. I am curious what it would look like sliced.
I get a no memory reset time of around 7-8 seconds. Can this be shortened?
you mean what to do in firmware or are you asking for a hexfile?
Btw, I’m using the compact 15mm version, filed down to 14mm. In a McGizmo haiku pill. Pretty Darn good so far.
Is it a software or hardware thing?
Is it a software or hardware thing?