UT01 have a private option for choose the power of each mode between 3 options, Turbo continuously, check battery,…. :laughing:
how do you do this?
I have been on holiday travel spending time at various relatives houses the past 1.5 weeks with the UT01 and its been great. I have my modes set up for the two lowest modes and then the two highest modes. Perfect for me… CANDLE > LO > HI > TURBO. So I don’t really have a MED mode. Love the cream white, green-free tint. Of all my NW cree tints this one has the least yellow too… which is good. My cousins friend has a black lab and we went out on a night hike along one of the local creek-side trails, and the UT01 did a great job. I mostly had it on hi and used turbo for short bursts, where it doubled up as a hand warmer too. (win-win !!!)
Travel rig. Solid performer with eneloops too, particularly around the house and I don’t need that much light.
EDC, compact and lightweight with a 14500 cell.
Size comparison with other lights I brought with me, thorfire TG06, 4Sevens Quark AAT.
[quote=kramer5150]
I just got this light today and was searching for the answer also. Seems like the UI is the same as manker t01, I found a review on reddit which had a description of the UI https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/4gve2b/review_manker_quinlan_t01_review_by_evo_spec/
works the same for me, hope this helps.
[quote=redhawk]
Thank you! :+1:
x2 !! thanks. I Really like this lights UI… and the Manker E11 too
IMHO they should delete all those disco modes and isolate the battery status indicator by itself, so its out infront of the program mode. That way you can double tap to check the battery and double back out.
Just got mine in yesterday, great little light at a super price! Thanks for this GB!
Yes yes. +1
Just a quick comment on the UI programming aspect.
To enter programming mode just double tap from either on or off state.
The light will strobe, but just click past all the blinky modes and you will reach what appears to be the low-firefly mode. This is the programming mode however. The light will automatically cycle through:
Firefly - L/M/H (tap the output level you want for firefly)
Low - L/M/H (tap the output level you want for Low)
Med - L/M/H (tap the output level you want for Med)
Hi - L/M/H (tap the output level you want for your Hi)
It will go back to strobe, just double tap to get back out to the normal operating mode.
This works for the Manker E11 as well.
Thanks kramer for the explanation .
I have it in the OP too 
Got mine today. Nice.
Thanks for the review! Just one question. Can you recommend some ~800mAh 2.5-3A 14500 IMR battery that would fit in E11?
Same question, guys which better? https://www.fasttech.com/products/1287511 or https://www.fasttech.com/products/1420/10002173/1804004-trustfire-imr14500-3-7v-700mah-rechargeable-li
I would take the Sanyos 
Thanks for the reply and review!
Sanyos ordered
I got one yesterday and immediately modded it to fit protected button top 14500.
I bought 2 pairs of both 
(from KD, cause they ship free to GR). Didn’t see any noticable performance difference. These 14500 TFs must be good. Time (and use) will show.
What surprized me (as my eyes see it - don’t have any instruments to test/verify it), is that comparing with a couple of 2-3 y.o. (but unused) IKEA green-silver Ni batteries, UT01 provides about the same light with the above two Li batteries. Using the same batteries with a ThorFire TG06 and an Olight S15, there’s noticable light difference (in favour of the Li batteries ofcourse). Can’t explain/understand why I see no obvious light difference when using Li batteries in UT01… :question:
I had the same problem you mention but in the Klarus Mi7. Lithium batteries were no brighter than NIMH or AA primaries. Turned out to be a defective driver. Klarus USA sent me a replacement head…then there was brightness.
Your UT01 may have a defective driver.
Are you sure your turbo mode is in fact THE turbo mode? Out of the box the UT01 / E11 is not set to the brightest turbo setting. On mine I had to program them manually. Even then it won’t be a night and day difference going from ~400 to 775 Lumens. Its a ~logarithmic scale in this output range, doubling lumens does not appear twice as bright.
Also your eyes can play tricks on you as they auto-dilate for different brightness levels. So shining a 775 Lumen floody light around outside may not appear all that different than a 400L because your eyes and brain adjust. If you have a cell phone you can download a Lux-meter app, and perform ceiling bounce measurements in the bathroom. Its not the absolute-absolute of light measurement, but as long as you compare directly A to B, it will help quantify things.
Yes the thorfire TG06 is significantly brighter stepping up to a 14500, same goes for my 4sevens AAt. So not all lights behave the same.
[EDIT]
Here are some crude wall-bounce-bathroom measurements of my UT01 using first a NiMH and then 14500.
And just for kicks and giggles, here is the reading with the bathroom lighting blasting away.
Hi, I got a couple with this issue and would like to know if you ever found a fix for this?
Any suggestion for a switch boot replacement?