Noob's First Build - Review Request

I have become enamored with the Convoy S2+, and I own 3 or 4. I just lost my favorite one this week, and I think I want to do my first build to replace it. Here's my wish list on mtnelectronics.com:

Convoy S2+ Flashlight Host $12.25
Convoy S2+ 18350 Flashlight Tube $3.85
QLITE REV.A 7135*8 3.04A LED DRIVER $4.20
22 AWG Premium Silicone Wire $1.00
Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive $6.40
Nichia NVSL219BT-V1 4000K 90 CRI LED on 16mm Noctigon $4.99
Hard Diffuser for Convoy S2 S2+ S3 S4 S5 S6 S7 S8 $1.45
Deep Carry Flashlight Pocket Clip $1.05


I'm replacing an EDC light that was pretty much permanently in short-tube mode with a 16340. I want to try a Nichia LED because I like the warmer tint XM-L2 a LOT, and I want to see high CRI just for fun. I'm not concerned with lots of lumens. The S2+ stock builds I own with XM-L2 (U2 1A and T6 3B) and 7135*6 are way brighter than I need. I want to play around with long battery life, so I'm thinking a 7135*4 qlite. And guppydrv just because I'm curious.

As I said, this is my first build. So I would REALLY like to know if there are any serious flaws with my chosen components, or if they won't work together. Also, I'm open to suggestions for improvements.

Plus, I'm pretty sure all I need to do is a little soldering, centering/gluing the MCPCB, and the rest will just screw together. I'm comfortable with that, but if I'm missing any major steps, please enlighten me.

Thanks in advance!

ETA: First Post Flub! Heh. "Save" on this board is post, not like "save draft" that I'm accustomed to. The first 20+ people who saw this got a really unfinished version. My bad.

Get the single sided 4x 7135, no clearance issues on the spring side.

Welcome to BLF,

Guppy is neat, but I can never remember the mode list.

The 7135*4 will not have the chips on the spring side and you can use the threaded retaining ring. *6 or *8 will need to be soldered to the brass pill as the retaining ring will not fit around the chips.

If you have ever done computer work you can use the artic silver type paste. Just mentioning it in case you may already have some and save a few bucks.

Looks like the Nichia and pocket clip are out of stock from MtnE. Richard is awesome and does excellent work.

You know, you can order direct from Simon of Convoy too. Convoy has a new driver available and I am sure you can request to have one installed in a S2+ you would like. Short tubes and clips are on there too. However you will be ordering from China and the shipping will be a few weeks. You could always swap the emitter later.
Make the order and check out, but do not pay for it. An order number will be made. Message Simon what you need done, and you can also request the BLF discount. He can send you a PayPal invoice with total. However he does not stock Nichia emitters.
Convoy Store

Thanks!

Good point. I like the stock S2+ driver better than BLF A6 driver, generally. As long as there’s a moonlight/firefly, simpler is probably my preference.

I probably have some around, but all the pictures of the 16 mm MCPCBs only have 2 holes, so I wondered if that meant I would need to use an adhesive, since there are no screw holes.

I’m not in a hurry. I’m on the notify list for the Nichia from MtnE, but any 90+ CRI will make me happy. I just have a hard time figuring out which other emitters fit that criterion. I would be perfectly happy with an XP-G3. If I decide to buy instead of build, I’ll probably order from Simon (or one of these).

Gotta totally agree with the 4*7135's. I ordered same type board for a sk68 I have modded over and over. I made the mistake of having 7*7135's added. I slaughtered about half of them trying to just get it seated.

Maybe try the Eagle Eye X2R
It uses a CC driver 3 modes 1.6A

Add a AR coated lens to the list

And if you’re not terribly interested in modes at all, you can get a 1-fer.

https://www.fasttech.com/p/1127404 (17mm)

You can fit it with a spring, pillar, or nothing at all (for button-tops, absolutely direct contact with the cell).

Definitely hold out for a high CRI Nichia over the Cree XP-G3

Good to know. I’m not extremely mechanically inclined. I chose the 4*7135 for battery life and less heat. But if it’s also easier to build, then I’m definitely down with that, especially for my first try.

Thanks.

It’s not as high of a CRI, but you could try the 219C with 80+ CRI.

One thing I’m not sure about… the included centering ring / insulator is meant for XM LEDs. I’d recommend one for XP-sized LEDs, but then it wouldn’t mate to the larger hole in the S2+’s reflector :question:

That’s totally in line with my tastes, I’ll definitely do that. Thanks!

I’m too biased against micro-usb ports. Ok, I hate them. If it was type-c, I might be interested. Smartphones and tablets don’t last forever, but I’ve had too many micro-usb ports barely make it 3 years. I hope a quality flashlight would last a lot longer than that, so it doesn’t match in my brain. Even though a light wouldn’t need to be charged anywhere near as often as a phone.

Now if lots of people chimed in that their micro-usb-charge lights lasted for many years, or maybe it is an extremely easy/cheap part to replace, I could be convinced. But emotional prejudices are hard to overcome.

Thanks for your suggestions.

Hmm. Tempting. But I just got my first light with a really low mode (BLF A6), and I’m really digging that. But maybe this one doesn’t need it. Decisions, decisions.

Thanks.

Ok. I’m mostly doing this for fun, learning, and experimentation, so if the Nichia is prettier, I probably will just wait for MtnE, or try to find that elsewhere.

Thanks again.

In my EE X2R I just pull the battery as all other lights, charge it in my separate charger. I consider the Micro USB charge port to be secondary option. Great to have the option out on the road or elsewhere. But I am still a micro USB phone user. Honestly I have not had one fail on me. Usually lint gets on the inside not allowing the plug to seat fully.

“a 1-fer.” I love it!!!
Great terminology……… :+1:
I am always saying “2-fer”, I’ll have to add this one to my vocabulary repertoire. :wink:

I keep a can of air around for the charging ports. It’s my kids’ tablets and phones where the plugs have gone bad, actually, not mine. So I admit my bias isn’t entirely rational. But it’s still a good point that it’s optional, I don’t have to use it.

But, the more I think about it, the more I think I want to build, just for fun. If I fail miserably, then I’ll buy one of the previously suggested lights, or an Astrolux with a nichia or 3.

Lot’s of great suggestions. Thanks!

Naw, microUSB is an abomination unto the LORD.

I’ve had tablets and phones go useless because they won’t charge anymore. Contacts get worn down, the whole jack lifts up off the board (often taking PC board traces with it), so they either slowly degrade and need wiggling to work, or need to be pushed up/down/in to make contact, or just up and die all at once.

Even my trusty’n’crusty Nokia has issues with its separate(!) charging jack (pin-type barrel plug) and intermittent contacting, but at least I’ve had it enough years that I know it’d’ve been long-dead if I had to charge it via usb (which I use only for data in/out).

I have this tendency to consider anything that charges via usb to be (necessarily) disposable, as usually it’s not worth the effort to replace the jack (and I bought and still have almost a dozen of said jacks).

Basically, if it doesn’t use a standard barrel plug (eg, 5.5mm/2.1mm) for charging, it’s gonna die.

Just my 2¢…

Lol. Amen!

I switched to the Moonlight Special instead of the QLITE, but I finally got all the parts and put it together.

I LOVE it. It was fun, the color is very nice, and it doesn’t heat up much at all, even in high mode. I expect I’ll get pretty good battery life, but I don’t have a good way to test that.

Thanks for all the suggestions and encouragement.

And, pictures, or it didn’t happen right?

Very cool. and good job.
So when is your next?

threw your Pic here for looksies. Was Huge in the link.