XP-L2 V5 Output & Death test by Texas_Ace Over 2200 lumens! Still worked after 15 Amps!

Hhm, waiting for XP-L2 triples for a proper Convoy S2(+) build!! :smiling_imp: …

After trying them as a single in a S2+ I can say that you will have only mere seconds to use such a light. Even a single XP-L2 gets silly hot.

Although I do plan to try a triple in an X6, still won’t have amazing runtime but should at least last a minute or 2.

All of that said, you should be able to crack 4000 lumens in a triple if you tried I figure.

You can run it without overheating until the battery depleted……underwater…. :cowboy_hat_face:

I actually did exactly that with testing the waterproofing on my S2+ EDC with TIR lens. I managed to noticeably raise the temperature of 1 gallon of water while doing it. It also lasted a surprising ~1.5 hours before shutting down (output dropping the whole time naturally).

Try high speed diving in an ice cold lake :laughing:
That should reduce the output drops considerably

The angle-specific tint changes are one of the traits I like least about Cree emitters. It pretty much goes away if you use a frosted lens or similar, but I’d rather not have to do that to get a reasonably consistent color throughout the beam.

Nichia 219 emitters still change tint a little per angle, but not nearly as much. And Cree’s HI emitters are quite a bit better about it too. But with a Cree dome, it’s pretty noticeable.

Broke 2,000 lumens with a XPL2 V6 2B from KD, in a Warsun X60 FET DD: lumens: 2,090 @start, 2,000 @ 30 secs.

Throw was measured at 5m for 66 kcd. Definitely lose some throw with the XPL2's. Previously I had a XML2 T6 4D in this light and got 1,610 lumens @30 secs, and 67 kcd. Tail amps measured with a clamp meter was 7.18A before the mod, and after 8.45A. The old T6's really could crank amps.

I just built an MT-12 with an XP-L2 V3 4000k 80CRI.

While not a nichia quality tint by any means it is FAR improved from the 5000k in an S2+ reflector I was using before.

First off the tint shift around the edge of the beam is completely gone, I think my theory of the deeper reflector fixing that was correct. The hotspot is very nice, good tint and above average CRI.

The spill does taper in tint getting cooler as it goes out. This is only really noticeable on a white wall, outside I didn’t notice it but the sun was already coming up so I will see better tonight.

Still making ~1900 lumens even with the lower bin though which is nice. I have to say, I really like this MT-12 light. The threads need serious work and the shelf should be way thicker but overall it is a nice light and the finished product is very nice. Kinda like what I am guessing the X7 is like, only cheaper and way better looking.

I am really liking these XP-L2’s the more I use them.

I have some more 4000k V3 80CRI XP-L2’s I will be building a triple with but they are a different part number then this one, they are binned differently then the easywhite system. I am curious both how the triple goes and how the tint looks on these other LED’s.

Is an MT-12 UltraFire branded and looks like an F13, this MT-12 here at FT? I assume you mean the Eagle Eye X7, not the TrustFire X7, or definitely not the Olight X7. These model names is get'n very confusing....

The Warsun X60 is basically a C8 deep reflector, SMO. I've found the V6 2B in this light to have 3 clearly different tints: the spill, corona around the hot spot, and the hot spot itself. I think some/many may find it not so pleasing. The V5 4000K XP-L2 in my ThorFire JM07 with OP reflector looks much better.

That's quite good to get 1,900 out of a V3.

Yep, that is the one I got, they had a sale on it for 15% off awhile back so I got 2 of them. Although I really want to get my hands on the F13, it looks like an updated version of the MT-12. It might have fixed the threads (way too small of threads and too many and not even remotely square) and possibly the shelf is thicker.

Yes, the Eagle Eye X7. I thought about getting one but it is just too dang ugly and I had to pass in hopes that someone releases a similar model that looks better. Like that X6/X7 combo render someone made.

Yeah, the tint could be separated into 3 areas like you mentioned although the deeper C8 style reflector could be making it more distinct then it is in this light as the reflector is not all that deep. I plan to build a C8 with a 5000k as well to compare so that will be an interesting datapoint.

Overall the LED is good if you want output IMO but it is not a tint queen by any means. But then I have 2 basic modes, max output or high CRI tint. For the first the XP-L2 is proving to be a good option since it is 3V and easy to use in most lights. For the latter, one word. Nichia.

I just built my other MT-12 with a 219C 4000k 90+ CRI.

So it is 4000k vs 4000k and 80cri vs 90CRI.

The interesting part is how close they are, don’t get me wrong they are still quite different but way closer then I expected them to be.

The hotspot tints are quite close, the 219C is a bit rosier but that could easily just be from the 90CRI. Same for how it looks, about what you would expect for 80 CRI vs 90CRI. The XP-L2 just seems to have a bit less red/more blue overall.

The corona on both has a different tint then the hot spot. It is quite close to each other in size and shape of this corona. The nichia doesn’t shift the tint as much as the XP-L2 and remains more even overall. The XP-L2 seems to actually get warmer in the corona with a bit of yellow.

The real noticeable difference starts at the spill.

The nichia gets cooler as it moves into the spill but it is much more mild then the XP-L2 and it simply changes color temperature, not the tint.

The Cree on the other hand gets significantly cooler in the spill. The offset from the spill to the hotspot is what causes the beam to not look good on a whitewall.

I have not tried the nichia outside yet but I tried the XP-L2 last night and outside it looked good, you don’t notice the tint shift much outside. I look forward to the 219C. I really like these hosts.

Oh and some quick data on the 219C as a comparison. It is making about 850lumens @ 3A vs 1250 for the XP-L2 and in “turbo” (have to limit the duty to about 75% to keep it from overloading the 219C) it makes around 1100.

The hotspot is about 65-75% of the XP-L2 size.

Some quick throw measurements.

219C Turbo - ~1100 lumens - 27Kcd - 330m
219C @ 3.15A - ~850 lumens - 22Kcd - 300m

XP-L2 Turbo - ~1900 lumens - 30Kcd - 350m
XP-L2 @ 3.15A - ~1250 lumens - 18Kcd - 270m

Seems like the 319A Ra8000 will probably hit in the middle between 219C and XPL2, closer to XPL2 I guess.

I kind of doubt that the 319A will reach XP-L2 levels but it should improve on the 219C.

The weak link in the nichia setup seems to be the thermal pad setup, it is much smaller then the Cree version and as such it seems to top out at around ~20W vs the 40W that Cree seems to reach before reaching max lumens.

I just compared the two MT-12’s outside.

Like I figured in the real world and not on a whitewall the tint shift pretty much falls away to almost unnoticeable.

The XP-L2 is basically larger then the 219C, larger hotspot, larger spill and large output in turbo.

In the 3.15A mode they are a lot closer since the 219C has a more intense hot spot it plays tricks with your eyes making it seem brighter in some ways while dimmer in others (in reality the spill is a fair amount dimmer and less of it).

The hotspot itself is very good on both, about what you would expect from a 80CRI to a 90CRI.

For raw output the XP-L2 is very nice in a larger reflector.

I also got my hands on a few different models of the XP-L2. There are 4 versions floating around that we would be interested in that I have seen.

They have 2 different 5000k and 2 different 4000k model numbers. One of each is standard easywhite bin and the other is some kind of more specific bin.

I put one of the more specifc bin 5000k emitters in a hugby XP-1 and it actually has a reasonable tint compared to the other 5000k I used. No tint shift around the edge of the beam and the beam itself is much whiter as well. Now it is a much smaller reflector thent he S2 but still, it appears that the non-easywhite models are the one to get.

I have some 4000k that I will be putting in some lights tomorrow, just not sure which ones.

Finally getting a bit of time to finish building the lights I have collected over the last year.

Oh, that XP-1 is making ~650 lumens with the stock driver, mcpcb and hair thin wires. Quite a pocket rocket. I could get a lot more out of it but I don’t think the tailcap could handle it and I would need a DTP mcpcb. As it is I have $7 invested in this.

I tested an XP-L V5 as a comparison and the results were interesting. Keep in mind the lower Vf of the XP-L2. When compared by wattage the XP-L2 is slightly ahead of the XP-L the entire time. AKA, the XP-L2 is more efficient overall.

Also in the real world the lower Vf means we get much better numbers from the XP-L2 then the XP-L since we can pull much higher currents.

Hey TA, did you get a chance to test out those specific-bin 4000K ones? Guessing you got these 80 CRI, V3 E5 bin ones (XPLBWT-00-0000-000HV30E5). Whatcha think?

Wow 10A and still going up! Creezy!!
You really need to start looking for higher DC power supply to feed your DPS5015 (is it?)Tex! :slight_smile:
These new LED limits are going higher and higher each year

I have used a few of these now and found that I really like the 4000k 80CRI V3. It is a little different model then the one you posted and I could not figure out the exact difference between then when searching other then they are binned differently but both are rate at 4000k and 80CRI.

In these cases I find I generally have better luck with the oddball codes vs the easy-white codes. I think these are 3 step vs 5 step but not sure. I even called Cree and they could not tell me what the difference was.

I have one of these in a convoy M1 making 1900 lumens and a really nice tint. Tint shift is not much worse then last gen XP-L, CRI is good and lumens are great. I have been considering trying one out in my EDC but just have not ordered one.

XPLBWT-00-0000-000HV340G

Now I’m cornfused. According to the XP-L2 datasheet (on page 4), XPLBWT-00-0000-000HV340G is the code for the Easy-White (3-step) version. :weary:

Edit: according to Cree’s FAQs, the intent behind EasyWhite is to reduce LED-to-LED color variability. Sounds like tighter tolerances, not necessarily anything different about the emitter itself.