I’d be interested in a yellow or a yellow/GITD S2+.
You can add me to the list :disguised_face:
I think a GITD, flourescent, reflective light might be a bit much :cowboy_hat_face:
Oh, with the SS metal button if that matters at this point.
Fluorescent, GITD, reflective please, and at that point it doesn’t matter anymore if it produces light at all 
Do I even want to know how/why this thread got started?
As long as we’re wishlisting, I’d totally buy this if it existed:
Really though, it’s the blue/purple/red parts I like the most, not the orange/yellow/green bits.
However, by itself, a bright neon traffic-safety yellow reflective glow-in-the-dark coating could be fun. Maybe give it an amber LED or a 2200K ultra-warm to emulate sunlight at sunrise/sunset. Add a pocket chain and wear it with a yellow zoot suit.
Fluorescent finish = interesting
Fluorescent + GITD = interested
Fluorescent + GITD + reflective = I’m in! 
edit:
@TK, that rainbow finish is totally sick. Really like the combo
For GITD it would be best to have a white coating first for best results I guess. Safety yellow in combination with GITD (maybe even the blue stuff) should look interesting.
GITD stuff (a powder) has to be suspended in a clear coating.
What’s the point of fluorescent if you need another light to light it up.
A full-body GITD would be awesome.
I am interested depending on price and shipping charges
Doing some quick research it seems that GITD may not be up to standard, it’s perfectly possible, but reading up about people using it, it seems like it shows up with an uneven blotchy finish, not a nice uniform glow (it can also only be used with light colours for any chance of seeing the glow)
GITD might be worth a miss
how about a GITD-coated segment? Head, tail, part of the body?
This.
Possible, but it’s not the powder itsself that glows, it’s a pigment you add to clear/white coat.
So you would get a speckle effect. Obviously the more powder you use the less noticeable it is. But if I use too much the original powder won’t cure (the glow powder doesn’t ‘melt’ but bonds and glues with the melted powder coat, then cures)
Basically it won’t be a solid block of GITD light, but it can be done if anyone wants to order that option!
Just FYI: Powder coating is an effective thermal insulator when applied to metal (even at the typical 60-80 micron thickness). So not a desirable material to be used to coat an aluminum LED flashlight… which generates heat and requires a thermal path to the ambient air to cool the emitter. Even worse is the possibility of overheating the battery due to the trapped thermal load.
IMO - although the colors can be vivid and pleasing, Id avoid this one.
Sorry, 3Tronics.
That’s your personal opinion
As I have said a few times, powder coating is not for high powered (Hot) lights mainly because I haven’t tested them yet.
For single emitter lights running 2-3A there is no problem (Most EDC lights)
I have been making / using powder coated lights for about a year with no problems at all with thermal/overheating problems
There is definitely pros and cons as with anything or any light.
Pros are mainly durability and vivid flourescent/candy colours that you can’t get with anodising
Cons is diffusion path reduction
There is fully plastic lights after all…. which fully insulate the battery/led
And it can’t be all bad if car makers use it on high performance brake callipers
If you want a flourescent yellow light, you can’t run an XHP50 in it. That’s personal choice. You have to use a lower power led.
To put your mind at rest I’ll make one with an XML2/XPL HI running at 6A until the battery dies, to test it.
A cigar shaped light like an S2+ will get very hot with 3 Amperes too.
For ‘normal people’ (lol) i would recommend not using more than 5x 7135 (1.75 Amperes) in a S2+ (or equivalent).
Even with 3x 7135 (1.05 Amperes) it will get hotter than you would want when it’s in high mode for 15 minutes.
This all depends of course on the surrounding environment too (wind and temperature).
Sure, powder coating will make things a little worse.
The heat will probably spread further towards the tail.
Yes that’s for ‘us’ if I make a light for a ‘normal person’ I don’t usually go above 2A.
The powder coat still does have thermal properties, just not as good as aluminium. It’s not a complete insulator
If i make a powder coated light for someone I don’t go above 3A (less with resistances) or 2A for ‘normal people’ (less with resistances)
I will probably offer the flourescent ones as hosts to BLF, to save cost. Although I can make full lights if needed. I would just advise not to go above 2-3A. And use single die emitters only. i.e. No XHP50 or triples (unless the triples are lower powered)
I’m assuming some people will run them higher but that’s there choice, just like we take leds that are rated for 3A and run them at 6A