18650s: 30Q vs a 4.35v?

I have been using some Samsung ICR18650-30B that were laptop pulls and brand new. These cells are 4.35v instead of 4.2v.
I’ve seen many people recommending Samsung INR18650-30Q as the best battery.
Both cells are 3000mAh.

Would there be any noticeable difference between the 2 batteries? Am I better off with a 4.35v or the INR 30Q?

On a side note, why are there “INR18650-30Q” that are 15amp and others say 20amp?

Hard to say if you would actually notice a difference unless you A/B tested them both in the same hosts, side by side.
That said, the 30Q is the superior cell between those two (even with the 30B charged to 4.35v).

As to the 15A vs 20A: Just a guess, but some sellers may be advertising the continuous rating (15A), while others are listing the transient/pulse rating (20A).

Regardless, Samsung only makes one 30Q cell. :beer:

In a direct driven light I think the 30q would see a difference in a light making 2-4 amps probably not so much. As far as the rating Samsung underated its batteries. It says 15 amps so it stays cooler and has more life cycles. It can run at 20 amps continuous without overheating. In the spec sheet it list being able to run at 22 amps but at 70 or 80c you have to let it cool below the max temp then resume use. For regular light use not going to see a difference. When you start pulling 5-10 amps the 30q will definitely shine

I really liked this answer.
Thank you for explaining why some sites say 15A and others say 20A and for making it clear that the move from my old liion chemistry into the new INR chemistry is going to be an overall upgrade.

I bought my INR18650-30Q Battery 15A and LG HG2 1865 battery 20A, and a Samsung INR18650-25R. Last just to play with, says 100A pulse output.
Not trying to advertise, but I bought these batteries from https://liionwholesale.com/. They all says “Genuine & Tested” and they are in the US, which means First Class mail shipping for like $3.
I hope they hold up to those claims.

The main advantage of the high drain batteries is the hold voltage under load. Most laptop pulls max out around 4-6 amps new used cell type etc all go into play I’m just using this next part as a example. Your 4.35 cell running at its max 5 amps may drop down to 3.8 volts under load being pushed to its limit. The 30q or other high drain. May only drop to 4.1-4.0 as 5 amps is 1/4 its max current its a breeze. Throughout the whole discharge curve it will keep higher voltage compared to a lower amp cell. Resulting in more output. Running s cell at its max amp limit produced heat and is hard on the cell. Take a look at some tests from HKJ and you’ll see what I’m talking about voltage dropping under load with different amp currents. He’s tested all those batteries you have

Edit liion is a trusted seller you’ll get real batteries from them. I have the 30q/hg2/25r and they are all great cells. Use them between my lights and my vape device. They can handle some current. My vape unit draws about 10amps on one cell. And the battery doesn’t get to hot just warm with heavy vaping session. In my opinion to me it feels like the 25r hits the hardest on my vape

Mmm, of course getting a clear answer as to “what is the best battery” needs its own analysis.

Months ago I overhauled a friend's netbook battery pack. Originally equipped with ICR18650-22R cells, I used ICR18650-30Bs in their place. The key here is that, charged at 4.2V, the 30Bs may only deliver ≈2.5Ah for such application, but since you're preventing high voltage stress on the cells, cycle life is sure to improve by a good deal, which is of key importance in laptops.

Cheers ^:)