This looks like a very good option. I have just now started to reflow leds (melted the dome of one in the process) and was using the tip of the (obviously too hot) soldering iron under the MCPCB to heat it up. As this is far from perfect I am looking for another solution.
I’ve always used my heat gun, it works great. I do a tail-stand with it. Then I hold the PCB with a pair of needle-nose pliers over it at about a 2.5” distance. It works fast too.
A huge advantage of alumimium is that solder does not stick to it, and so the surface stays flat and clean much longer.
i use Alumium block and Heating Element from 3d printer, cost only 3-4$, 12V, 30W, work very well
This is what I use, less than 1 minute and it is done. I also use it to warm bullet moulds and melt pewter when I do not fire up the 100 pound lead pot.
I just Googled that, I like it. Basically the same as the soldering iron in the Al block, but without the handle and such - looks like the most compact option for the workbench/toolbox so far.
I’m glad I asked this question, lots of good options I had not considered!
Those ones from Banggood look pretty cool. Do they work well? I just use a soldering iron but wouldn’t mind a more controlled device. Especially for triples and some other more difficult tasks.
how hot do these 3D-printer hotplates get?
Since we are all brainstorming here I just wanted to highlight another option, albeit not a very compact one:
I understand that this not the hot plate/skillet option, but with a reflow oven you woud have good control over the temperate profile, can reflow multiple boards/pcbs at once and even larger projects, and the costs would be reasonable if you have an older oven somewhere. Also, this can be a fun build project. IMO, this should also be a better reflow option for boards with both sides populated.
Oh, drat. The $60+ Gopher power supply promotion deal ends before they expect to restock.
I reflowed several tripple xp-g boards in the past days and solder pot is a very good option. Once you find good temperature setting reflowing is a breeze. I’m not going back to solder iron or heat gun.
I have been using cheap hot air reflow gun for reflowing LED and changing MCU on a driver board with success, never tried a large board but a small board is easy. Set to 250c, proper airflow and the solder flows nicely.
i have that on my 3d printer, without insulation it could reach 80c with insulation 100c. never tried higher than that as there is no need to go that high on 3d printer. in standar config it runs on 12v but can be modified to run 24v for lower amps. I dont think this would be enough to melt solder as the total power is only 144watts. There are other Heatbeds that run on main voltage which can go as high as 700watts i have no experience with that though but then again it is not design for high temperature operation where the solder will melt so probably not worth it.
Resurrecting old post because I found this:
http://www.aoyue.eu/aoyue-soldering-hotair-rework-desoldering-station-preheater-repairing/aoyue-preheater-solder-bath-lead-reflow-oven/aoyue-int853-preheater-smd-rework-circuits-pcb.html
Not too expensive, only ~$150 which is cheaper than all the other models but still goes up to 300C which is more than enough for the 220C that low temp solder melts at.
Also has a cooling function which is useful when holding the LED in position waiting for solder to cool down.
Yes
Capton tape heaters
Stumbled across these when I was looking for a way to build a heated bed for my 3D printer (it has a small bed of 125x125 TronXY X1)
However I don’t think they can heat to 300+°C for soldering
You could order an aluminum extruder nozzle and heater, place heater and it can heat enough to melt solder
Output Nozzle Hot End DIY Kit Replacement
If you remove the nozzle there is a hole for thread to screw in a long screw to mount it on a bent bolt, the 40w heater element with 12vdc can get REAALY hot really fast and should be able to reach 300+°C
(got this idea from people building their own filament extrusion machines
You can get a hunk of aluminum, drill a hole for one of these
10mm x 50mm 110V 200W Watt Power Cartridge Heater Heating Element
This to control the heat so it doesn’t just burn itself up (has sensor to set temp, and a solid state relay to control the heat)
2V 24v Dual Digital PID Temperature Controller 25 A solid SSR alarm fan sensor
Search Ebay/Amazon for cheapest ones…there are tons of places that sell em
You could get one of those PID modules…attach the heat sensor on the back of the plate…set temp…and have the relay turn off/on the heat plate for more precise heating
Anyone try one of these types of things?
OMG I laughed!
I have such a 15x15cm plate
Added 250W of heat elements
In this video he makes the mistake taking a cold star on the hot plate, heat up should be slow