Klarus XT12GT

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validum
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Got my xt12gt a few days ago and am some what disappointed. I’m seeing pwm on the lower modes as well. Only on high and turbo is there no observable pwm. I have a ec4gt and the hotspot on that is definitely brighter and tighter than the xt12gt. I also have a Thorfire TK4A (neutral white) and visually the ceiling bounce is noticeably brighter on the TK4A. To be fair though the TK4A is brighter than most of my other 1000ish lumen lights. The TK4A is probably doing 1200-1300. I’ve got two Thorfire C8s and the PF04 and I gotta say I’m super impressed with the build quality of the lights. Thorfire lights aren’t feature rich but boy do you have the essentials down.

Any way I digress. I put a 30Q in the xt12gt and that doesn’t seem to make a difference. I also noticed a bit of flickering on turbo after leaving the light on for a few minutes. I think this is the boost driver trying to adjust the current draw as the voltage drops. On the positive side it does hold it’s brightness on turbo pretty well, even 20 minutes in. But I suppose this isn’t too hard since it’s only putting out like 1100-1200 lumens. I’ve love to see someone with a lux meter do an accurate test. After 10 minutes on turbo the light is only slightly warm.

The built in charger stop at 4.20v so that’s good. After this and the reports of the G20 and G30 under performing the stated specs I don’t think I’ll be buying another Klarus light. Multiply their specs buy 70% and that’s more likely the type of light you’ll be getting.

igeigeige
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^thank you very much for your input, very appreciated. Smile

will34
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validum wrote:
…On the positive side it does hold it’s brightness on turbo pretty well, even 20 minutes in. But I suppose this isn’t too hard since it’s only putting out like 1100-1200 lumens. I’ve love to see someone with a lux meter do an accurate test. After 10 minutes on turbo the light is only slightly warm.

That’s weird, in my unit the output starts to drop immediately after turn on and then does a pretty good job at regulating the temperature. If anything the temperature regulation is too severe it never gets noticeably hot. Maybe there is a NTC resistor on the MCPCB and there is someway to isolate just a bit to make it run brighter…

I don’t have a lumens spehere but it measured roughly 50% more in ceiling bounce tests against my other ANSI 1,000 lumens light, including the Utorch UT02 which lots of people reported 1,000lm as well.

Rusty Joe
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Mine is an absolute killer…lightweight, a powerhouse, and beyond-par quality…no PWM on any modes. 1,444 lumens @ the 30-second mark using the stock battery. It didn’t come charged, though. It came fully undercharged Handles heat well and feels great to use and hold. Love it!

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chrisc
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No PWM at all? Wow I know of a number of people who have checked and said there is quite obvious PWM when you view it with a camera. Obviously this isn’t a problem for general use but it certainly was there.

As a note, Klarus told me that Banggood need to sort it out. They said if I told them who was not responding they would take it up with them as a matter of priority. As luck happens I had a response from Banggood this morning asking a few questions so they’re not ignoring me just yet Smile

On bounce tests mine was performing at 235 lux vs 117 of a thorfire C8s (claimed to be around 1000 lumens), the EA41 came in at 109 lux and a TN31 at 136. To me this flashlight put out a shed load of light.

Lexel
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The XT12 GT wont have a NTC on the MCPCB like the XT11GT

if you put a XHP35 HI E4 inside be aware that the markings on the star dont match the LED contacts,
because it is soldered in reverse polarity shame to the guy designing the MCPCB

I didnt find any NTC on the driver so its using the one in the MCU,
this is bad, bacause I would like to mod it to run with a bit hotter body temperature,
like my Nitecore P12 which got very constant 60°C on the head of the light

Lights that have a NTC on the star have a very clean and flat PID, because there is almost no delay in temperature change

igeigeige
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I just received mine from the local post office. overall the (discounted) price for the light is much worth it Big Smile

will34
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Thanks for your input Lexel, I thought that as well, while the regulation maintains the temperature at low levels, the output is all over the place. The ups and downs are too severe and the steps are visually noticeable, unlike the smooth PID of zebralights.

Anyways for the size of this light I’m not disappointed, but still not good enough for my go-to light. The search continues…

I’m interested in the P12 now that you mention it, the turbo mode is a slow drop like the MH20GT or PID style?

chrisc
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It seems like I’m getting a replacement sent to me. I’ve said that if I do not need to send my one back I’ll ship the broken one to Lexel for them to do a tear down on it if they wish.
If not I’ll probably try and do a tear down on it myself and I might end up with 2 working lights – unlikely though.

Mitko
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I also got mine yesterday…at start its about 1450 lumens and 85k candelas, all 3 of them shows nearly same result with their default batteries, or Samsung 30q ot 25r or VTC5/6
The preformance with Sanyo GA is pathetic, 56k and under 1k lumens, i dont have a clue why is that, maybe a driver issue

Yet, those 85k dropped dramaticly in just 30 seconds to 60k and the body wasnt even hot/ that drop resets when off but still the intensity drops quite fast
The little USB lamp is fantastic!
The PWM on lower levels is terrible
Overal feeling is good but not great, for the money i paid i am kinda pleaced
The interface is good too yet it could be inprooved, you either have a strobe or a low mode in an instant but never both at the same time
The charging feature is greats and its maybe the best thing in that torch + plus the lovely USB charger 3000k light

A good modded C8 destroys it with either price, throw, lumen output, and ease of repair…for nearly the same money you can get M2X

igeigeige
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does everyone here have same experiene with my xt12gt, when running on turbo for quite some time (+/-60 seconds) the light shuts off for a second, then will turn on again at turbo. No whistle for my xt12gt running on turbo though.

chrisc
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No, mine would sit at turbo for a long time without shutting down.

I have just heard that I will be re-sent a new product so that is GOOD. It is on its way so it isn’t as if this fault on mine was to be expected, they’ve certainly made good on their problem.

I’ll post my faulty light to Lexel for a tear down to see what is wrong.

Hopefully in a week or so I’ll have my replacement and Lexel will have to faulty one to tear down.

will34
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igeigeige wrote:
does everyone here have same experiene with my xt12gt, when running on turbo for quite some time (+/-60 seconds) the light shuts off for a second, then will turn on again at turbo. No whistle for my xt12gt running on turbo though.

Not in my unit, but the steps are very noticeable, including changes in PWM. Little noise in mine but I got used to noisy 7135 drivers so it’s fine.

igeigeige
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Hmm.. Seems i have a faulty light here. Might ask swi regarding my concern

chrisc
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I got my replacement today. Just doing a capacity test on the cell now.

Noticed that the internal charger cuts off at 4.25v exactly. Done it with a few cells.

Did a couple of ceiling bounce tests and this is ever so slightly brighter than the last one. Possibly down to the batteries being 4.25v rather than 4.20v but there was a 3-4% higher bounce readings to the old one. I checked two other lights and they were reading 1-2 lux different from when I made the readings last time.

Currently charging from a battery pack via usb – 5.12v @ 0.94A charge rate. I usually use the opus charger but I want to see how this goes over night. 26mins in, dropped down to 0.92a and it’s showing 0.401a charged or a smidge over 2Wh

It also doesn’t light up with a cell at 3.0v Smile

Speed4goal
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I’m sure lexel can rebuild your one that burned up. Host don’t go bad to often. Just switches, springs, drivers, LEDs/optics. Flashlights remind me of cars. Engine/trans/rear/suspension goes out and needs replacing. But the body and frame if even given no maintence will last decades just like a flashlight. (Didn’t say will look the best) Keep the threads lubed up and will last forever like a oiled gun will

I’d say your lucky two free lights a free replacement for a free light and two brand new 3600mah cells. One as a host for whatever led/driver you wish and the other as the light was built. I have no doubts lexel can rebuild it for whatever led/driver combo you wish

As far as the internal charging I usually only use it as back up or used it awhile at work and get some juice back in it quickly. But normally have a liitokala -100 in the truck as back up as well. They all vary a little like your other one did 4.20 this one 4.25 some people think that’s high but that’s within cell manufacturer specs. And honestly I’ve had chargers charge there and below and it’s hard to run a cell down to nothing. They don’t wear out very easily. Even when abused you’ll still get a couple hundred good cycles even beating them up high charge and discharge. I have one 2600 protected cell I’ve put through the ringer. Can’t tell you how many times was ran until protection tripped. The nitenumen ne01 has no cutoff. Has warnings but no cutoff. All my other lights are modded so I give it to my wife. She uses it as a lamp type deal. Since she breastfeeds easier then going across the room. And I’ve showed her to only grab these few cells. If it doesn’t have a button and gold strip down the side don’t use it And she charges it in the light mostly unless its dead and she needs it. But even after a few hundred cycles being run down hard still has around 2300mah at 1 amp. So I don’t worry about charge voltage anymore if its within specs. The cell resting voltage will drop some anyway hours later.

The only issue I’ve had was a couple days ago my vc2 tried to pit nearly 4000 mah into a protected NCR b two of them and never happened before. I caught it at 3800/3700 they are protected and its never had a problem charging in it before. So vc2 is off duty until I get a new dmm in. Opus is on full duty again liito Kala no problem terminating either. I’m thinking something in the protection circuits was keeping the charger from reaching termination voltage some kind of high resistance. Imma running s test on opus now. These cells arnt abused. Charged at .5amp and discharged at 1-1.5 amp only down to 3v and the abused cell with couldn’t count the protection trips has no issue in the vc2 and these cells have never been tripped. So I don’t worry about cells anymore use them and recycle once they drop around 60-70% same with laptop lulls 1600+mah I’ll keep and run them hard once they get below 1500 back to recycling. My logic $10 every two months on cells and you’ll never run out and have plenty to rotate for years to come. Even the westinghouse Walmart 2000mah cells arnt bad. Average laptop cell quality. Good for about 4-5 amps. Still have just under 2000mah at 2amps. I keep four in the truck for a just in case situation and need a another battery. For $2.50 a battery have no complaints with their performance

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