Yes the coating came off mostly with acetone, should patina nicely now
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Yeah i think Toms explanation is right there
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C’mon, give it a shot like i showed, you can do it
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It’s just a thin layer of oxidised copper so would imagine it’s only slighly less conductive and would need cleaned before soldering
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Thanks
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Yeah i think it does look better now
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That’s why i trimmed down the driver retaining ring and replaced the spring with a copper stud so as to leave plenty of space in the battery compartment.
Here’s mine with a flat top purple Efest 18350, still space for a button top
Thanks for the tip. I was able to reuse the plastic washer and installed a forward clicky with spring bypassed. Much brighter!(and more useless as it heats up even quicker)
I was wondering if XP-L will fit under the optics? Or you think I should stick with XP-L HI?
I was wondering the same, the new XP-L2’s might fit but i haven’t looked at it properly yet.
I did buy an extra optic so will probably install some higher powered emitters even if the optic needs modified a little :smiling_imp:
This has been my dream light for a while now and I finally got one! I’m following your lead on some of the mods I’m doing as well. I hope you don’t mind. Acouple questions though. How do you like the forward clicky with the way the modes are set up on this light, and WHERE CAN I GET A TAILCAP LIKE THAT!! HAHA. Sorry but you took what I thought was a work of art and turned it into an absolute masterpiece! I’m serious about the copper tail cap thoughlol. Is it a one off or something? great work man. my hat is off to you.
Thanks friend, the tritium tailcap has a forward clicky in it and the 18500 tube has a reverse clicky.
I changed the driver to a MTN fet with guppydrv1 so it works nicely with either.
The 18500 tube I made from an 18650 extension tube, switch and copper wire.
Can you show us how you did the copper on the bottom and on the tail cap? I’d like to build one myself just like yours so any help would be highly appreciated!
I can’t show you, some experimentation is required on your part but I used an 18650 tube, cut some of the threads off to suit the cell and switch length then made up some copper circles of the correct size and soldered them.
I placed them on the end of the cut down tube with some JB weld and spacing them with 1mm o-rings , removed the o-rings once hardened, applied more JB weld and smoothed off.
Another smaller copper ring from 1mm wire for around the switch boot.