So… with these newer low vf leds, are these fets too much for single cell lights? Speaking of nichia 219c cri, xpg3, XPL2? Any thoughts?
The XP-G3 and XP-L2 both work ok with the FET @ 100%. The XP-G3 is a bit overdriven but that is only with a full cell, after a few mins the voltage drops and things are good. The XP-L2 is fine at full power and actually not even making max lumens.
The 219C 90+ CRI on ther other hand will pull over 10A with a high drain cell and 100% duty.
You have a choice, either use low drain cells or knock the duty cycle down to ~80% or so. I knock the duty down and it works fine.
Ok. Thanks. Was wondering this for a while but now I have some 219c cri to try;)
In case anyone is on the fence or about to order some parts, I hear that there is a discount code for Arrow for a short time: ROOSTER17 I have not tried this, but it comes my way via another list that I follow and trust.
Yes, they advertise this on the site as well, I just saw it a little bit ago. I think I might grab a few more XP-L2 80cri 4000K LED’s, I put one in an M1 and REALLY like it. I am curious what it would look like sliced.
I get a no memory reset time of around 7-8 seconds. Can this be shortened?
you mean what to do in firmware or are you asking for a hexfile?
Btw, I’m using the compact 15mm version, filed down to 14mm. In a McGizmo haiku pill. Pretty Darn good so far.
Is it a software or hardware thing?
Is it a software or hardware thing?
It can be either. Don’t know what firmware you are running, but it can be adjusted in firmware, so maybe the values used in your firmware are just a bit too low for your liking.
I don’t flash. It’s stock from Texas Avenger.
Oh ok.
Well, someone correct me if I’m wrong but I think you could try to increase EDIT decrease capacity on the OTC, but you would shorten all switching times that way.
This is something I didn’t think about but since the 15mm PCB does not have the voltage divider the OTC timings would be changed as you can see.
As for fixing it, it could be done with either hardware or software. In the firmware you can recalibrate the OTC timing and fix it that way, this is the “correct way”. The other is to play with the OTC cap as mentioned above.
If you cut the OTC from 1uf to .5uf it should in theory cut the timing in half, so about 3.5-4 seconds.
Hmmm. I don’t flash. Maybe I can buy a cap somewhere…
Hmmm. I don’t flash. Maybe I can buy a cap somewhere…
The caps are not hard to find but then flashing a driver is not hard either. Just need $5 in hardware and a PC (windows and Linux works find and I am sure you can do it on mac as well). No coding needed if you have a hex file.
Although a cap is a bit simpler. Just a matter of finding the right size. a .5uf is a good starting point but I would try a few different sizes to see what works best. You can get assortments on ebay that should have a few values for you to work with for a few bucks.
This is the compact 15mm version. I think you said flashing it requires disassembly.
I thought it would as I had never built them at that point but I was able to flash them with them assembled. It was a tight fit but it worked.
Although an 0603 capacitor kit with some .1uf - 1uf caps might be the easiest option. Although the flashing hardware is still nice to have on hand.
Gunga, I recommend you to get into flashing, you’ll like it.