So, the UT01 turned out to be a great little light.
I was late, and after reading the reviews it seems the worst case scenario upon receiving one would be having to remove rubber boot switch cover and possibly re-center the switch button. Small price to pay for such a fantastic little torch. That is, if you were unlucky enough to have received one that needed a tweak.
All in all, everyone seems to be satisfied with it. Good deal
Flash Sale at GearBest for next 5 days $19.99 US. Remember to select 1A or 3D tints.*
Yeah it’s nice, but not 800 Lumens.
And protected 14500 doesn’t fit, which is just silly, but i solved that: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52332
(fwiw)
Yeah it’s nice, but not 800 Lumens.
And protected 14500 doesn’t fit, which is just silly, but i solved that:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52332
(fwiw)
So now, does it work reliably with shorter flat top batteries also?
Yeah it’s nice, but not 800 Lumens.
And protected 14500 doesn’t fit, which is just silly, but i solved that:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52332
(fwiw)
So now, does it work reliably with shorter flat top batteries also?
It still has the double tail spring, so it’s fine.
Can’t test flattops though, i have solder blobbed my 14500s, but i think it’ll work.
(have some WindyFire high drain 14500 flattops coming, will test and report).
Ive been using efest purple IMR (unprotected, flat top) and eneloops in mine since the late december group buy… no problems. Great EDC light. Outside of minor cosmetic differences its identical to Manker E11. Go with whichever is cheaper.
But what if the unprotected cell runs low?
Will the boost drive kick in, and drain it to death?
No it doesn’t do that.
At 3V output drops abruptly to low mode to signal the user. I am not sure what happens if you leave it ON extended when it is in that low warning mode.
When using NiMH the light shuts off completey at 1V.
I am not sure if e-switch parasitic drain continues in either of the above scenarios. Its best to assume it DOES and you need to remove the cell or unscrew the tailcap a bit.
But what if the unprotected cell runs low?
Will the boost drive kick in, and drain it to death?
If it does, worst case then replace the battery, at $4 it’s less than a fast food meal.
Mac Doo in the Netherlands? I had a big mac attack while walking down the Champs-Élysées in Paris. It was like 8 bucks just for the burger, and they have no ice for the drinks..lol
Yeah it’s nice, but not 800 Lumens.
And protected 14500 doesn’t fit, which is just silly, but i solved that: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52332
(fwiw)
Probably a silly question, but did you go into the hidden modes and bump up the high level? I can’t measure output, but I do know my UT01’s highest default level out of the box was set one step below the highest level in the hidden modes.
—
John 1:5 "The Light shines in the darkness, and the darkness did not comprehend it."
Yeah it’s nice, but not 800 Lumens.
And protected 14500 doesn’t fit, which is just silly, but i solved that: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52332
(fwiw)
Probably a silly question, but did you go into the hidden modes and bump up the high level? I can’t measure output, but I do know my UT01’s highest default level out of the box was set one step below the highest level in the hidden modes.
No i didn’t.
Actually i didn’t know about hidden modes..
The manual doesn’t mention it either.
Got my UT01 programmed to my liking. Pretty advanced stuff for a $16.99 torch. Really liking this little guy. Seems a little closer to the 800lm rating now.
Yeah, i found the hidden modes stuff and it’s a little brighter in high now and a little lower in low (i think).
Light has programmable output levels for every mode . Here is a how-to :
1) Turn on the flashlight , navigate on the highest mode , and turn off the light
2) Press the button until it blinks two times (it will turn on in highest mode , and flash 2 times after 7-8 seconds)
3) After it blinks twice , release the switch and double click again (It will enter strobe , beacon etc and a constant current output level & regular modes )
4) Now navigate with single (short) click to the lowest mode
5) It will ramp through 3 different output levels . Single click confirms selected output level of mode and goes to the next one
6) Do the same for all the modes , and when you are in strobe turn off the light with a “long” click .
All you need to do to enter programming mode is double tap from either ON or OFF.
It will start strobing.
Single tap to get you past the disco, SOS, beacon, turbo and blinky modes… and eventually after a few taps total you will end up in what looks like the low-firefly mode. This is really the program mode. Leave it there for a few seconds and it will start cycling through the settings for each bank:
Firefly – L/M/H (single tap to chose your output level)
LOW – L/M/H (single tap to chose your output level)
MED – L/M/H (single tap to chose your output level)
HI – L/M/H (single tap to chose your output level)
Once you finish selecting your HI, it will strobe once more. double tap to exit and you are all set.
There is also a hidden battery charge status indicator mode in there too. Its after disco, SOS, beacon, TURBO... It will flash 4, 3, 2, or 1 time to indicate battery charge level. Really cool feature that I wish they made more readily accessible.
MANKERLIGHT You have been on an anti-Utorch rant since day-1. Instead of ranting about it on a user forum, take control of your business and address the root cause. whining and complaining about your situation only makes you look bad, when you have the choice to fix it.
PUT THE HAMMER DOWN ON YOUR SUPPLIER TO NOT SELL YOUR DESIGNS TO UTORCH OR ANYONE ELSE. Or partner with a new OEM supplier who respects that request, located in a country that has a legal system in place to defend design ownership rights.
IF YOU WANT TO MAKE THE E11 STAND OUT FROM THE UT01…RE-FLASH YOUR FIRMWARE TO MAKE THE BATTERY STATUS COME FIRST IN THE BOLD SEQUENCE ABOVE. SO THAT WAY ALL THE USER HAS TO DO IS DOUBLE TAP TO ENTER BATTERY STATUS MODE, AND DOUBLE TAP TO EXIT BACK OUT. IMHO this would be much more useful than disco modes.
Yeah it’s nice, but not 800 Lumens.
And protected 14500 doesn’t fit, which is just silly, but i solved that:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52332
(fwiw)
So now, does it work reliably with shorter flat top batteries also?
It still has the double tail spring, so it’s fine.
Can’t test flattops though, i have solder blobbed my 14500s, but i think it’ll work.
(have some WindyFire high drain 14500 flattops coming, will test and report).
Got my WindyFire 14500 flattops in today, and they work without any problem too.
After the stepdown at 3V (that switches to the lowest mode) , i think it has another step , that the light turns off completely (i think this is at 2.8V ? i can’t remember)
After the stepdown at 3V (that switches to the lowest mode) , i think it has another step , that the light turns off completely (i think this is at 2.8V ? i can’t remember)
Does the above apply to all battery chemistries(?) as I was under the impression that unprotected cells were afforded a different (the least) LVP.
After the stepdown at 3V (that switches to the lowest mode) , i think it has another step , that the light turns off completely (i think this is at 2.8V ? i can’t remember)
Does the above apply to all battery chemistries(?) as I was under the impression that unprotected cells were afforded a different (the least) LVP.
I was talking for 3.7V li-ion batteries . Both protected and unprotected batteries will act the same in the light (LVP wise speaking) , protected batteries protection usually kicks in @ 2.5V .
When using an eneloop charged to 1.405V, my UT01 works great. When the voltage drops to 1.295V, the light starts to act weird. Sometimes it will turn on normally, sometimes I have to click two or more times to turn it on, other times it doesn’t turn on at all. Once it turns on, it works normally.
When using an eneloop charged to 1.405V, my UT01 works great. When the voltage drops to 1.295V, the light starts to act weird. Sometimes it will turn on normally, sometimes I have to click two or more times to turn it on, other times it doesn’t turn on at all. Once it turns on, it works normally.
Anyone knows what’s going on?
Put another eneloop in. Ran it on high until it dimmed. Now it won’t get any brighter than medium. Turned off and it won’t turn back on again. Voltage is 1.1V. Is LVP kicking in? Shouldn’t it do that at 1.0V?
copy
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And a really crap cheap looking copy.
The real deal looks much better in all respects
No silly logos and lousy clip for Utorch UT01.
I am keen to test it.
@jycheang, you should know the answer by now. Time to update the title?
FreeDailyDeals | TeamFreeme / ♥ Freeme Club ♥ / Niwalker Giveaway 2018
Yup.
Edited
There is also a copy of the U21… I definitely prefer the original Manker lights over these clones. But to each his own
So, the UT01 turned out to be a great little light.
I was late, and after reading the reviews it seems the worst case scenario upon receiving one would be having to remove rubber boot switch cover and possibly re-center the switch button. Small price to pay for such a fantastic little torch. That is, if you were unlucky enough to have received one that needed a tweak.
All in all, everyone seems to be satisfied with it. Good deal
http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_555778.html?wid=21
Yeah it’s nice, but not 800 Lumens.
And protected 14500 doesn’t fit, which is just silly, but i solved that:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52332
(fwiw)
Yep, mine seemed weaker than 800lm, but I like it a lot. Good jobs manker!
So now, does it work reliably with shorter flat top batteries also?
It still has the double tail spring, so it’s fine.
Can’t test flattops though, i have solder blobbed my 14500s, but i think it’ll work.
(have some WindyFire high drain 14500 flattops coming, will test and report).
I’m using effest 14500 unprotected in my ut01. No issues….yet.
Ive been using efest purple IMR (unprotected, flat top) and eneloops in mine since the late december group buy… no problems. Great EDC light. Outside of minor cosmetic differences its identical to Manker E11. Go with whichever is cheaper.
My flashlight + watch reviews... enjoy!!
But what if the unprotected cell runs low?
Will the boost drive kick in, and drain it to death?
No it doesn’t do that.
At 3V output drops abruptly to low mode to signal the user. I am not sure what happens if you leave it ON extended when it is in that low warning mode.
When using NiMH the light shuts off completey at 1V.
I am not sure if e-switch parasitic drain continues in either of the above scenarios. Its best to assume it DOES and you need to remove the cell or unscrew the tailcap a bit.
My flashlight + watch reviews... enjoy!!
No way but it have Manker logos on the driver and tail switch plate
If it does, worst case then replace the battery, at $4 it’s less than a fast food meal.
All men are equal when their memory fades
Mac Doo in the Netherlands? I had a big mac attack while walking down the Champs-Élysées in Paris. It was like 8 bucks just for the burger, and they have no ice for the drinks..lol
Probably a silly question, but did you go into the hidden modes and bump up the high level? I can’t measure output, but I do know my UT01’s highest default level out of the box was set one step below the highest level in the hidden modes.
John 1:5 "The Light shines in the darkness, and the darkness did not comprehend it."
No i didn’t.
Actually i didn’t know about hidden modes..
The manual doesn’t mention it either.
I prefer Burger King though.
Got my UT01 programmed to my liking. Pretty advanced stuff for a $16.99 torch. Really liking this little guy. Seems a little closer to the 800lm rating now.
Yeah, i found the hidden modes stuff and it’s a little brighter in high now and a little lower in low (i think).
Light has programmable output levels for every mode . Here is a how-to :
1) Turn on the flashlight , navigate on the highest mode , and turn off the light
2) Press the button until it blinks two times (it will turn on in highest mode , and flash 2 times after 7-8 seconds)
3) After it blinks twice , release the switch and double click again (It will enter strobe , beacon etc and a constant current output level & regular modes )
4) Now navigate with single (short) click to the lowest mode
5) It will ramp through 3 different output levels . Single click confirms selected output level of mode and goes to the next one
6) Do the same for all the modes , and when you are in strobe turn off the light with a “long” click .
All you need to do to enter programming mode is double tap from either ON or OFF.
It will start strobing.
Single tap to get you past the disco, SOS, beacon, turbo and blinky modes… and eventually after a few taps total you will end up in what looks like the low-firefly mode. This is really the program mode. Leave it there for a few seconds and it will start cycling through the settings for each bank:
Firefly – L/M/H (single tap to chose your output level)
LOW – L/M/H (single tap to chose your output level)
MED – L/M/H (single tap to chose your output level)
HI – L/M/H (single tap to chose your output level)
Once you finish selecting your HI, it will strobe once more. double tap to exit and you are all set.
There is also a hidden battery charge status indicator mode in there too. Its after disco, SOS, beacon, TURBO... It will flash 4, 3, 2, or 1 time to indicate battery charge level. Really cool feature that I wish they made more readily accessible.
MANKERLIGHT You have been on an anti-Utorch rant since day-1. Instead of ranting about it on a user forum, take control of your business and address the root cause. whining and complaining about your situation only makes you look bad, when you have the choice to fix it.
PUT THE HAMMER DOWN ON YOUR SUPPLIER TO NOT SELL YOUR DESIGNS TO UTORCH OR ANYONE ELSE. Or partner with a new OEM supplier who respects that request, located in a country that has a legal system in place to defend design ownership rights.
IF YOU WANT TO MAKE THE E11 STAND OUT FROM THE UT01…RE-FLASH YOUR FIRMWARE TO MAKE THE BATTERY STATUS COME FIRST IN THE BOLD SEQUENCE ABOVE. SO THAT WAY ALL THE USER HAS TO DO IS DOUBLE TAP TO ENTER BATTERY STATUS MODE, AND DOUBLE TAP TO EXIT BACK OUT. IMHO this would be much more useful than disco modes.
My flashlight + watch reviews... enjoy!!
Got my WindyFire 14500 flattops in today, and they work without any problem too.
That’s great Jerommel
Your mod is quiet worthy also !
After the stepdown at 3V (that switches to the lowest mode) , i think it has another step , that the light turns off completely (i think this is at 2.8V ? i can’t remember)
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
Does the above apply to all battery chemistries(?) as I was under the impression that unprotected cells were afforded a different (the least) LVP.
I was talking for 3.7V li-ion batteries . Both protected and unprotected batteries will act the same in the light (LVP wise speaking) , protected batteries protection usually kicks in @ 2.5V .
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
When using an eneloop charged to 1.405V, my UT01 works great. When the voltage drops to 1.295V, the light starts to act weird. Sometimes it will turn on normally, sometimes I have to click two or more times to turn it on, other times it doesn’t turn on at all. Once it turns on, it works normally.
Anyone knows what’s going on?
Put another eneloop in. Ran it on high until it dimmed. Now it won’t get any brighter than medium. Turned off and it won’t turn back on again. Voltage is 1.1V. Is LVP kicking in? Shouldn’t it do that at 1.0V?
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