I’m using effest 14500 unprotected in my ut01. No issues….yet.
Ive been using efest purple IMR (unprotected, flat top) and eneloops in mine since the late december group buy… no problems. Great EDC light. Outside of minor cosmetic differences its identical to Manker E11. Go with whichever is cheaper.
But what if the unprotected cell runs low?
Will the boost drive kick in, and drain it to death?
No it doesn’t do that.
At 3V output drops abruptly to low mode to signal the user. I am not sure what happens if you leave it ON extended when it is in that low warning mode.
When using NiMH the light shuts off completey at 1V.
I am not sure if e-switch parasitic drain continues in either of the above scenarios. Its best to assume it DOES and you need to remove the cell or unscrew the tailcap a bit.
No way but it have Manker logos on the driver and tail switch plate
If it does, worst case then replace the battery, at $4 it’s less than a fast food meal.
Mac Doo in the Netherlands? I had a big mac attack while walking down the Champs-Élysées in Paris. It was like 8 bucks just for the burger, and they have no ice for the drinks…lol
Probably a silly question, but did you go into the hidden modes and bump up the high level? I can’t measure output, but I do know my UT01’s highest default level out of the box was set one step below the highest level in the hidden modes.
No i didn’t.
Actually i didn’t know about hidden modes…
The manual doesn’t mention it either.
They’re everywhere…
I prefer Burger King though. 
Got my UT01 programmed to my liking. Pretty advanced stuff for a $16.99 torch. Really liking this little guy. Seems a little closer to the 800lm rating now.
Yeah, i found the hidden modes stuff and it’s a little brighter in high now and a little lower in low (i think).
Light has programmable output levels for every mode . Here is a how-to :
1) Turn on the flashlight , navigate on the highest mode , and turn off the light
2) Press the button until it blinks two times (it will turn on in highest mode , and flash 2 times after 7-8 seconds)
3) After it blinks twice , release the switch and double click again (It will enter strobe , beacon etc and a constant current output level & regular modes )
4) Now navigate with single (short) click to the lowest mode
5) It will ramp through 3 different output levels . Single click confirms selected output level of mode and goes to the next one
6) Do the same for all the modes , and when you are in strobe turn off the light with a “long” click .
All you need to do to enter programming mode is double tap from either ON or OFF.
It will start strobing.
Single tap to get you past the disco, SOS, beacon, turbo and blinky modes… and eventually after a few taps total you will end up in what looks like the low-firefly mode. This is really the program mode. Leave it there for a few seconds and it will start cycling through the settings for each bank:
Firefly - L/M/H (single tap to chose your output level)
LOW - L/M/H (single tap to chose your output level)
MED - L/M/H (single tap to chose your output level)
HI - L/M/H (single tap to chose your output level)
Once you finish selecting your HI, it will strobe once more. double tap to exit and you are all set.
There is also a hidden battery charge status indicator mode in there too. Its after disco, SOS, beacon, TURBO…. It will flash 4, 3, 2, or 1 time to indicate battery charge level. Really cool feature that I wish they made more readily accessible.
MANKERLIGHT You have been on an anti-Utorch rant since day-1. Instead of ranting about it on a user forum, take control of your business and address the root cause. whining and complaining about your situation only makes you look bad, when you have the choice to fix it.
PUT THE HAMMER DOWN ON YOUR SUPPLIER TO NOT SELL YOUR DESIGNS TO UTORCH OR ANYONE ELSE. Or partner with a new OEM supplier who respects that request, located in a country that has a legal system in place to defend design ownership rights.
IF YOU WANT TO MAKE THE E11 STAND OUT FROM THE UT01…RE-FLASH YOUR FIRMWARE TO MAKE THE BATTERY STATUS COME FIRST IN THE BOLD SEQUENCE ABOVE. SO THAT WAY ALL THE USER HAS TO DO IS DOUBLE TAP TO ENTER BATTERY STATUS MODE, AND DOUBLE TAP TO EXIT BACK OUT. IMHO this would be much more useful than disco modes.
Got my WindyFire 14500 flattops in today, and they work without any problem too. :+1:
That’s great Jerommel :+1:
Your mod is quiet worthy also !
After the stepdown at 3V (that switches to the lowest mode) , i think it has another step , that the light turns off completely (i think this is at 2.8V ? i can’t remember)
Does the above apply to all battery chemistries(?) as I was under the impression that unprotected cells were afforded a different (the least) LVP.
I was talking for 3.7V li-ion batteries . Both protected and unprotected batteries will act the same in the light (LVP wise speaking) , protected batteries protection usually kicks in @ 2.5V .
When using an eneloop charged to 1.405V, my UT01 works great. When the voltage drops to 1.295V, the light starts to act weird. Sometimes it will turn on normally, sometimes I have to click two or more times to turn it on, other times it doesn’t turn on at all. Once it turns on, it works normally.
Anyone knows what’s going on?
Put another eneloop in. Ran it on high until it dimmed. Now it won’t get any brighter than medium. Turned off and it won’t turn back on again. Voltage is 1.1V. Is LVP kicking in? Shouldn’t it do that at 1.0V?