Discussion : - Utorch UT01

All you need to do to enter programming mode is double tap from either ON or OFF.

It will start strobing.
Single tap to get you past the disco, SOS, beacon, turbo and blinky modes… and eventually after a few taps total you will end up in what looks like the low-firefly mode. This is really the program mode. Leave it there for a few seconds and it will start cycling through the settings for each bank:

Firefly - L/M/H (single tap to chose your output level)
LOW - L/M/H (single tap to chose your output level)
MED - L/M/H (single tap to chose your output level)
HI - L/M/H (single tap to chose your output level)

Once you finish selecting your HI, it will strobe once more. double tap to exit and you are all set.

There is also a hidden battery charge status indicator mode in there too. Its after disco, SOS, beacon, TURBO…. It will flash 4, 3, 2, or 1 time to indicate battery charge level. Really cool feature that I wish they made more readily accessible.

MANKERLIGHT You have been on an anti-Utorch rant since day-1. Instead of ranting about it on a user forum, take control of your business and address the root cause. whining and complaining about your situation only makes you look bad, when you have the choice to fix it.

PUT THE HAMMER DOWN ON YOUR SUPPLIER TO NOT SELL YOUR DESIGNS TO UTORCH OR ANYONE ELSE. Or partner with a new OEM supplier who respects that request, located in a country that has a legal system in place to defend design ownership rights.

IF YOU WANT TO MAKE THE E11 STAND OUT FROM THE UT01…RE-FLASH YOUR FIRMWARE TO MAKE THE BATTERY STATUS COME FIRST IN THE BOLD SEQUENCE ABOVE. SO THAT WAY ALL THE USER HAS TO DO IS DOUBLE TAP TO ENTER BATTERY STATUS MODE, AND DOUBLE TAP TO EXIT BACK OUT. IMHO this would be much more useful than disco modes.

Got my WindyFire 14500 flattops in today, and they work without any problem too. :+1:

That’s great Jerommel :+1:

Your mod is quiet worthy also !

After the stepdown at 3V (that switches to the lowest mode) , i think it has another step , that the light turns off completely (i think this is at 2.8V ? i can’t remember)

Does the above apply to all battery chemistries(?) as I was under the impression that unprotected cells were afforded a different (the least) LVP.

I was talking for 3.7V li-ion batteries . Both protected and unprotected batteries will act the same in the light (LVP wise speaking) , protected batteries protection usually kicks in @ 2.5V .

When using an eneloop charged to 1.405V, my UT01 works great. When the voltage drops to 1.295V, the light starts to act weird. Sometimes it will turn on normally, sometimes I have to click two or more times to turn it on, other times it doesn’t turn on at all. Once it turns on, it works normally.

Anyone knows what’s going on?

Put another eneloop in. Ran it on high until it dimmed. Now it won’t get any brighter than medium. Turned off and it won’t turn back on again. Voltage is 1.1V. Is LVP kicking in? Shouldn’t it do that at 1.0V?

FWIW… I just depleted a 2000 mah eneloop on Turbo. Didn’t actually time it, but it was in the vicinity of 45 minutes. Right around ~1V output dropped down to one of the low modes. I am not sure exactly which one but it was around 50 Lumens and i think its similar to my second lowest programmed mode. Pressing the button at this point only cycled between 50L low and firefly. I could turn the light on and off, but turning it back on at this point only presented two modes… firefly and the 50L.

Removed the cell and measured it immediately at a comfortable .95V.

I dont think that’s the LVP. 1.29V is still more than healthy for NiMH. FWIW neither of my lights do that… the UT01 or Makner E11.

Not getting any brighter than ~medium sounds like the LVP doing its thing…. at least thats what mine does.
Mine at that point will turn on and off however.

I am guessing there is a tolerance or window for the circuit, so the actual voltage level may vary from light to light. 1.1V - 1.0V might be within range for the LVP.

It sounds to me like you just have an over-protective LV circuit.

Thanks for sharing. I may end up using this light with a 14500.

Not the highest quality torch, but it’s not bad.

I got one during 11.11 event in NW XPL V6-3D

But compared to my other lights including the Q8 it is definitely a 4000K emitter
anyone else have too warm emitters?

My Manker E11 is very warm / amber colored while the UT-01 is pale white.
Both were the NW version of each.

Same here. The one I received a couple of weeks ago seems warmer than 5000k.

Mine too.
I like it.
But the switch problem… :person_facepalming:

too warm for me, sounds like they get a ticket

I ordered the CW version now, hoping I will like it better. Just keeping my fingers crossed that the switch is not broken.

I mentioned the 4000K two weeks ago in the other UT01 thread. I like it too, but it is way off the 3D tint that the site and the package claims.