KD has some 70CRI versions but the only places I have seen the 80CRI are component supplies like digikey, mouser and Arrow. There might be an European supplier that has them, no idea what suppliers are over there.
There are no convenient suppliers over here. I get stuff from Mouser every now and then, but shipping is killing unless I order over $50 dollar of goods
And you have to pay tax too , but at least you don’t have to pay import fees etc …
Mouser EU has them but they have insane shipping costs. I can order stuff from Farnell UK by a middle man and shipping costs are normal, but they don’t have any XP-Ls.
Should maybe try and get MTN electronics to sell them reflowed on MCPCBs. I’m sure they would sell a bunch pretty fast. Oddly enough, ordering small packages from MTN is normally cheaper than from within Europe.
Didn’t like the tint of my s41s xpg3. So I made it into a 4000k 219c cri92 triple.
Edit: FYI tint is now almost exactly the same is as my 219b s41 where I sliced the domes off with a hot knife.
Had this S41 stripped and polished a while back and it remained empty, waiting parts.
Got some stuff from Richard in last week and decided to get it done this morning.
Tpad Quad and Carclo. Hazed over the Carclo with 400 wet to reduce artifacts.
Nichia NVSL219BT-V1 4000K 90 CRI reflowed by Richard on the Tpad quad. Also used the MtnE New version FET+1 Bistro.
Soldered the Tpad into the head and reduced the 24mm Carclo to 22mm. Pulls 14.5A for a few seconds off a 30Q on my DMM.
Blackwater SR71 Ti Nichia 219C 4000K.
Several firsts today:
- First time using solder paste
- First time “properly” reflowing a single-emitter
- First time reflowing a multi-emitter setup
- First time slicing a dome
I removed the 4x 219B’s from my Astrolux S41S board and cleaned off the old solder. I then applied solder paste and seated four Cree XP-L2 V5 4000K on the board. A little gas and frying pan… voila! While I was at it, I did the same with a spare 16mm Noctigon. I had a bit of extra solder paste that collected on the sides, but I didn’t bother removing it as I knew it wouldn’t matter underneath the optic. Instead, I concentrating on making sure all 4 were pushed down tightly (using a drinking glass).
The domes on the XP-L2’s were too large to properly fit in the stock optic, so I sliced them quite low. Reassembled everything, and wow… this is the warmest light I own. Wall hunting with it isn’t pretty, but I imagine they’ll look great outside. I can’t wait for (1) nighttime to come, and (2) the long tube for the S41S to come in.
I also took the XP-L2 on the 16mm Noctigon and replaced the cool white XP-L HI emitter in my EDC S2 with a smooth reflector. It’s definitely not the nicest beam, but not terrible. But putting it side by side with a 5000K 219C (also in a S2 with smooth reflector) makes me cringe when wall hunting; the 219C is so much nicer to look at. I’ll see how the compare outside tonight.
Stock S41S board with 219B’s:
After reflowing the XP-L2’s but before slicing domes:
After the dome slicing:
S41S beamshot (it looks much warmer in real life):
S2 beamshot:
Another Surefire U2 swapped to an XP-L.
Machined a copper shim
Beamshots - Stock Lux V on left and XP-L on the right. Highest setting
I usually tape the lower part of the head to the flashlight body with some gorilla tape, heat the light by running it hot or apply externally then use a sticky silicone pad or two or rubber sheet to twist it off by hand. I try to avoid using grips and such if it can be helped.
Dude, let’s keep this family friendly. Don’t want to know about your rubber sheets 
Emitter swap for my AA brass CNQG and brass I3S !
Those 3000K Nichai 219C are so warm :heart_eyes:
I also made two brass beads with my power drill and Dremel to make so sweet lanyards :sunglasses:
Nice set :+1:
Thanks !
However, I still have to find a clicky brass AAA (something like the 348 but made of brass and with light knurling would be cool !)
I’ve had my eye on this little fella for a while
It’s only semi-clicky (technically a tailcap e-switch), but have you checked out Massdrop’s brass Lumintop Tool?
Quite chubby for a single AAA but the machining is beautiful !
I saw it and was on the fence to go for it but that double-click to change mode is a no-go for me.
I would buy a Lumintop Tool mad of brass however (the same as the copper one, with a standard clicky switch)
It can be done, especially with the brass version.
I really didn’t like the electronic switch on the tool ti.