What did you mod today?

Cool, thanks for the heads up, i have placed an order on kaidomain for triple board with xpl hi leds to fix the spare head i have (ver.1, the bad that came with the light).

Although my plan to fit the shorter optic is a little bit different than yours, i sanded the stock mcpcb and made a spacer from it so i can compensate for the different height of the optic, i think it will fit nicely.

This is my plan:

Stock led board sanded on both sides

Then soldered to the head

And last, fitment test with noctigon 3xp and carclo optic

Now i need to wait few weeks for the parts from kaidomain and hope that it will fit nicely as the set i tested.

Vollsion SP-11 with momentary tail switch, glow ring and magnetic tail
11mm Fet driver, XP-L HD 2c on sinkpad
Twisty or momentary on

Olight TC15 Ti reworked

This had an MT-G2 but iā€™ve changed it to an XM-L2 3c with 5 mode driver.

XM-L2 3c emitter
GITD bezel
Recessed glass
5 mode driver
Lockout function
Spring on positive contact
10440 cell
1.8A max current

Very nice mods CRX :heart_eyes:

Sorry for not posting the requested beamshots ā€¦ Iā€™m modifying it again :stuck_out_tongue: , i thought a dedomed xp-g2 would be better in this little light .

Always hated the Honkā€™n tailcap switch of the Tool. Gave away the Cree but still had the Nichia remainingā€¦
Now its a twisty head and much smaller. Still canā€™t compete with my Copper i3E for EDC.
Magnets are more than strong enough to hold it in any position on any steel surface.






Neat idea and great execution! :+1:

How about a thin disc of copper sheet to hide the magnet? Would that reduce the magnetā€™s pull force much?

Did you knock the lanyard ears off with hand tools? It looks great.

Snipped the ears off with end cutter pliers. Any cutter will work, itā€™s soft enough. Filed flat, sanded and rounded the edge. The same 12mm magnet sits perfectly in the outer recess or between the ears. So a 12mm copper disc will fit into the outer recess. Inner recess just outside the magnet is just under 10mm. Could be opened up slightly and a third magnet of 10mmX1mm could take that space if capping itt weakens the hold too much. I do not think it will get too weak capped off though. Does hold well even to a pipe that minimizes the surface contact area.

The 12X3mm and 8X2mm magnets are glued with CA glue and remain conductive. I made the mistake trying to glue the magnets into the copper tailcap and lost continuity. Sucked getting the glue out again. So it is not sealed. I will be making a cap of some sort with a disc to get it sealed.

I put a new tailcap in my ultrasonic humidifier.

I wish I were kidding. The gasket in the water tank deteriorated from the water contact and I couldnā€™t find a replacement. Then I discovered that a Convoy tailcap was a perfect fit. Whodathunkit?

Iā€™m always using plumbing parts for flashlights. Turnabout is fair play.

:laughing: Made my day.

DQG pill capsule light with momentary switch & magnetic carbon fibre keyring holder

Beautiful creation, I like it.

:+1:

Wheres my glasses? :sunglasses:

Last week I put together the Texas Avenger driver for my Small Sun ZY-T08 for an MT-G2 mod.

And today I started to modify the light to handle the heat. I have a 10mm thick copper piece. I cutted a circle from it to fit in the driver cavity.


Then from the remain material I made another circle and soldered together to double the thickness.


After that I cut out the led shelf from pill, and now I can put the led star directly on the copper.

I need to glue in the copper with some fujik, then flash the driver, and modify the switch board for series battery contact, put in the led and solder wires. Maybe at the weekend I have time to finish it.

Yesterday, Nitecore NU20 with magnets, clip and auxiliary red LED

Rechargeable Meteor

BLF 348 with a Tiny10DD.

Cool! I mean: Hot!

I posted this in DEL's OSHPark driver thread, but should have been done it here. Almost 3 years ago I modded a Yezl Y3 for my cousin's son who's into hunting. Frequently they are out before dawn and he wanted something powerful with some distance. I recommended the Y3 at the time. The original mod was a Nanjg nodded with a FET:

The switch eventaully gave out - didn't come loose, but internally there was no more spring action.

After it's all modded/cleaned up:

I did 2 boards. Will get to the 2nd some day:

I used Arctic Alumina epoxy to sure up the switch:

22 AWG bypass on the spring. I also applied some solder paste on one side of the LED+ pad, then the iron on the other - think the holes filled up well w/solder. The bypass is soldered to the pad with the thru holes, so minimum path to the LED wire:

Seems to be my favorite LED right now. A KD XPL2 V6 3B, on a KD 20 mm MCPCB. Used 22 AWG because didn't think I'd get the clearance with 20 AWG. This is an early model Y3, and has a 23 mm wide flat reflector base. Later models I have use a smaller flat surface and different centering piece. The new ones need the centering piece significantly trimmed, sanded down, then the MCPCB is too low,so have to use a copper shim to elevate it. This one did not require a shim:

Here's a better shot in my lightbox studio on the 2nd driver:

Assembled view of the LED, 2nd in moon mode:

The driver fit great, nice and snug with just a little filing. The results? Well, it's impressive:

On a LK @4.20V:

  • 8.9A at the tail (clamp meter) - wow!
  • 2,280 lumens @start, 2,150 @30 secs
  • 123 kcd measured at 5m (700 meters)

Originally, this light had a Nanjg jury rigged with a FET on it, and a XM-L2 U2 1A domed. This was from May 2014. Originally, this is what it did:

On a SONY 26650 fully charged (best performing cell at the time):

  • 5.3A at the tail (DMM w/heavy gauge leads)
  • 1,680 lumens @start, 1,600 @30 secs
  • 121 kcd measured at 5m (696 meters)

So it got a 34% bump in lumens @30 secs, barely measurable bump in throw. The XPL2's don't throw as well as the XPL or XML2 - I've seen this in couple of other mods.