What did you mod today?

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Tom E
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I posted this in DEL's OSHPark driver thread, but should have been done it here. Almost 3 years ago I modded a Yezl Y3 for my cousin's son who's into hunting. Frequently they are out before dawn and he wanted something powerful with some distance. I recommended the Y3 at the time. The original mod was a Nanjg nodded with a FET:

The switch eventaully gave out - didn't come loose, but internally there was no more spring action.

 

After it's all modded/cleaned up:

I did 2 boards. Will get to the 2nd some day:

I used Arctic Alumina epoxy to sure up the switch:

22 AWG bypass on the spring. I also applied some solder paste on one side of the LED+ pad, then the iron on the other - think the holes filled up well w/solder. The bypass is soldered to the pad with the thru holes, so minimum path to the LED wire:

Seems to be my favorite LED right now. A KD XPL2 V6 3B, on a KD 20 mm MCPCB. Used 22 AWG because didn't think I'd get the clearance with 20 AWG. This is an early model Y3, and has a 23 mm wide flat reflector base. Later models I have use a smaller flat surface and different centering piece. The new ones need the centering piece significantly trimmed, sanded down, then the MCPCB is too low,so have to use a copper shim to elevate it. This one did not require a shim:

Here's a better shot in my lightbox studio on the 2nd driver:

Assembled view of the LED, 2nd in moon mode:

The driver fit great, nice and snug with just a little filing. The results? Well, it's impressive:

On a LK @4.20V:

  • 8.9A at the tail (clamp meter) - wow!
  • 2,280 lumens @start, 2,150 @30 secs
  • 123 kcd measured at 5m (700 meters)

Originally, this light had a Nanjg jury rigged with a FET on it, and a XM-L2 U2 1A domed. This was from May 2014. Originally, this is what it did:

On a SONY 26650 fully charged (best performing cell at the time):

  • 5.3A at the tail (DMM w/heavy gauge leads)
  • 1,680 lumens @start, 1,600 @30 secs
  • 121 kcd measured at 5m (696 meters)

So it got a 34% bump in lumens @30 secs, barely measurable bump in throw. The XPL2's don't throw as well as the XPL or XML2 - I've seen this in couple of other mods.

XXX-Man
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Today I took some time to mod my second S2+.

Replaced glass with AR coated one.

Replaced OP reflector with SMO.

Replaced XML U2 with XPL HI V2-1A

Replaced 7135x6 3/5 mode with 7135x8 with biscotti firmware

Also replaced stock wires with better ones and black tailcap with blue.

 

 

Having problems with driver working too fast and almost impossible to program modes. Ordered tools needed for flashing so I will try to fix it when arrives.

"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."

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Nice work on these Y3s’ drivers TomE Thumbs Up

XXX-Man , the light is way better now , you should try a fet driver for max results (just sayin) Beer

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Rufusbduck wrote:
BLF 348 with a Tiny10DD.

Did the mod go smoothly or was it hard to do?

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

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XXX-Man
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giorgoskok wrote:
XXX-Man , the light is way better now , you should try a fet driver for max results (just sayin) :BEER:

It's perfect now (for me) Smile

I think fet would be too much, it's hot in seconds on max now.

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Lexel
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The programming hardware costed me below 7€, with the hex file its easy to flash when you follow the programming threads steps

Dont forget to cut leg 5 on the MCU first

[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, S42, K01 / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp

[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+Imalent DM21TWcolorful anodisation

[Sale] TA drivers Narsil or Bistro / Remote switch tail DD board with FET

Wieselflinkpro
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Tom E wrote:

So it got a 34% bump in lumens @30 secs, barely measurable bump in throw. The XPL2’s don’t throw as well as the XPL or XML2 – I’ve seen this in couple of other mods.


Is the throw of razor blade dedomed XP-L2s that bad too? .. compared to a dedomed XP-L or XM-L2?
Tom E
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Wieselflinkpro wrote:
Tom E wrote:

So it got a 34% bump in lumens @30 secs, barely measurable bump in throw. The XPL2's don't throw as well as the XPL or XML2 - I've seen this in couple of other mods.

Is the throw of razor blade dedomed XP-L2s that bad too? .. compared to a dedomed XP-L or XM-L2?

Dunno from what I've done - never attempted it, but from what I understand - yes, it's a bump from stock, loses lumens, but not doubling kcd. I think the bump is 50% of lower in kcd.

Rufusbduck
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MRsDNF wrote:
Rufusbduck wrote:
BLF 348 with a Tiny10DD.

Did the mod go smoothly or was it hard to do?

More so than it should have been since Dale sent it to me already assembled. The awg22 wires barely fit through the pill but were simply to bulky for the driver to drop completely into place so I swapped them for 28 Teflon. After that it was straightforward. Rich has the same small springs and I renewed the thermal grease(AS-5) as well.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Put an e-switch in my 7xXPL Convoy L2 . I decided I really wanted ramping UI in this light. Inspired by the Thrunite TH20, which I recently purchased, with very nice ramping UI, and DB custom’s video of Toykeeper’s ramping FW on his L6, I took the plunge to finish learning how to flash FW.

FYI, I had to comment out the section in this FW (ramping_table_UI on toykeeper’s FW repository) about the red and green voltage indicating lights.

In the process of trying to flash FW to the driver, I fried the Zener diode. So I either had to get another Zener diode or an LDO from mtnelectronics. I don’t know if some of you are like this, but sometimes I really just want to finish the job, and this sometimes leads to “kludging”. I went to radioshack and got a ~5V Zener diode and wired it up.

The Zener diode is in the place where the capacitor was, and the capacitor is in the Zener diode spot. They are in parallel so it doesn’t matter, the large diode just fit better in this position.

I drilled a small hole through the driver cavity wall and wired up a small momentary switch. I mechanically reinforced the switch body-to-light connection with epoxy.

16mA parasitic drain with full batteries. Eventually I may wire up a LDO, but I’ll leave it for now; it has the tail switch to lock it out.

I just noticed the LEDs are very dimly lit when the light is off, but not locked out. My understanding is that the parasitic drain for lights with the Zener mod comes from current draining through the ~200 Ohm resistor and Zener diode to ground. So I don’t understand how the LEDs are getting the current.

vinte77
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Today I built out 2 Convoy S2+, one with a xp-l2 4000k v5 led w/ a ledil boom reflector (used a dremel to make it fit) and another with nichia 219C 4000k 90cri led w/ a tir lens (not sure where I got it from but it was in my parts bin). Nothing much to show except that I was pleasantly surprised by the distinct beams that they created, so I decided to post pics of the beams. Unfortunately, I only have my cell phone camera to take pictures with. The ledil reflector made a nice big hot spot, the picture shows a hot spot with 2 outer rings but when you see it in person it looks like one big hotspot and one outer ring. As for the tir lens, it has virtually no spill and the beam consists of a spot only.

Lexel
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the rings come from too much jpeg compression, saving at higher quality or RAW will show the real fading

[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, S42, K01 / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp

[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+Imalent DM21TWcolorful anodisation

[Sale] TA drivers Narsil or Bistro / Remote switch tail DD board with FET

gchart
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Modified a nanjg105c today. Stacked 4 extra 7135’s for a total of 12. And swapped the attiny13a for a attiny25 with the desire to have temp regulation in a constant current driver. Using a Bistro, converted to a single channel. Bench tests are successful, but I still need to put it in a light to test thermal regulation.

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I reflowed a 219c sw403 into a v2 HDS Clicky. The light had an XP-G in it so I didn’t even try to remove the emitter board, which is epoxied and potted into place. Instead I used my hot-air reflow unit to do the swap in-place. No issues, and the light is much improved.

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Lumintop Tool Ti – lighted switch

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I glued a small clip to my Thrunite TH20 headlamp.

The clip is one that was made to attach to your keys (or anything with a key ring or string) so you can attach them to your pocket. I had to shorten it a bit for it to fit.

Belt clip will offer an additional way to carry temporarily while not in use. Just clip it to the pocket or belt for easy access. Also the angle of the clip is chosen so carrying it on my right side (outside of pocket or belt) projects the light out in front of me, for hands-free use. Doesn’t add any significant bulk or weight. Clip is just superglued on now because I was testing different angles of attachment, but I plan to use epoxy and I think it should hold pretty good.

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Modded a Skyewolfeye TLY-6501.

This is a super-cheap 1×18650 zoomie very common on Ebay. They can be had for anywhere from $2 to $15 depending on where you look.

This light attracted me for a number of reasons:

  • 107mm long making it the smallest currently available 1×18650 zoomie.
  • I needed a replacement host for the no-longer-available Aleto N8 18650 zoomie and this was the closest in size I could find.
  • body and tailcap is fully knurled. Light feels quite good in the hand.

It had all the features you’d expect in a super-cheap light:

  • Latticebright XPE
  • thin aluminum star
  • hollow pill (pill has a partial shelf several mm wide with a hole in the center. …. so more than the thin ledge some hollow pill lights have but definitely nowhere close to a full shelf.
  • wobbly tailstanding. Button protrudes just a bit too far.
  • standard press-fit switch, with a shrouded tailcap spring.
  • accepts 16mm star and 17mm driver
  • 20mm plastic aspheric lens.
  • very low output.
  • beam angle is narrower than I like.

Some additional observations:

  • The pill can easily be removed without using any tools.
  • The pill lip is quite narrow. Unfortunately, this means the pill cannot be filed down to the level of the top of the LED for a super-wide floodbeam. The beam is still quite nice, but you’re not going to get a 90 degree beam by modding this light.
  • The only thing stopping the bezel from sliding off the back of the light is the lens, which directly hits the edges of the pill. this is a bad design because a drop onto the head of the light from height could crack the lens.

Last couple nights I did a few simple mods to this light with spare parts I had on-hand.

  • Replaced emitter with XPL HI on Noctigon. Added a generous amount of AS5 on the partial shelf. That combined with a copper star should be all the heatsinking needed for at least moderate operation at full power. (I have another light that uses a hollow pill and a FET driven triple that works just fine with nothing under the star…. the trick is to use plenty of thermal grease to fill in any gaps around the edges).
  • Replaced driver with BLF A6 driver
  • Replaced switch housing and switch with a lower profile one.
  • Added spring at head to prevent skips if light is bumped while in operation.
  • Replaced tailcap with a lower profile black tailcap that allows perfect tailstanding.
  • Filed both sides of the pill lip. Back side needed a bit filed to allow the LED to come into focus with the thicker star. Front side needed filing to allow the lens to retract slightly further.

These mods greatly increased the usefulness of this light. Lumen output and throw are now outstanding.

Other modifications I am considering:

  • Shorten the pill with a file and grinding bit. Doing so would open up more space in the battery compartment.
  • That would allow me to then shorten the entire length of the light by filing off the top of the body where the pill screws in. Fortunately the pill threads are quite extensive so I can chop a lot off and still have the pill screw in. However, this might require filing a new o-ring channel in the body for the bezel, which could be risky in such a thin light.
  • Open up room in the tailcap by grinding off part of the inside of the switch compartment to allow the battery to extend into it.
  • Or file off the back end of the light and install a lower profile switch. Filing off the back end would mess up the anodizing though, so I’d likely end up removing all the anodizing and then polishing the bare aluminum.
  • Replace A6 driver with DrJones H17F.
  • Add tiny reflector around the LED (doing so adds a broad hotspot to the floodbeam greatly improving its usefulness. It also adds an ugly ring around the spotbeam, but the ring isn’t very bright and is only an issue for white wall hunting).
  • Not sure if I’ll bother, but adding a small ring of Sugru on the top of the pill might help cushion the lens in case of a fall onto the bezel.
  • Instead of keeping the tailcap switch I could try converting this light to a sideswitch like I did with the Aleto N8, though for this light I’d want to mount the switch further forward on the side of the moving bezel. Doing so would allow removal of the tailcap switch and could shorten the overall length of the light 15mm.

I figure if I do the above modifications I should be able to remove at least 1 cm from the overall length of the light which would make it even better for EDC pocket carry. Before shortening the light though I’ll need to first obtain another H17F driver.

Rufusbduck
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Almost finished with this one. It has a 219C triple regulated at 1.14A with guppy drive firmware. The brass pill was shortened and copper added back to give minimum driver depth. Short springs on both ends allow for more wood in the middle using a 16650 cell. The brass liner sleeve extends ~10mm past the head threads and seats onto the pill. Here it is between an 18650 A6 and an 18350 S2+.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Nice Thumbs Up

MRsDNF
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Thats pretty sweet RBD. Lucky you limited it to 1.14A. It may have ended up along the lines of a movie made along time ago by Cheech and Chong. Wink

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Rufusbduck
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Cigar goes up in smoke?

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Rufusbduck wrote:
Cigar goes up in smoke?

My memory of that is a bit Foggy but I am pretty sure it wasn’t a Cigar.

T18
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vwpieces wrote:
Fandyfire Warrior got new emitters today. XM-L2 U2 4C 4500K

And the S2+ “Color” triple got a face lift and a magnet


!{width:90%}http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/vwpieces/Misc/P_20160917_224359_1...!


vwpieces sorry for a stupid question but how did you do the finish on your S2?
It is really nice, is this maybe what they call a bead blast finish? Or maybe there’s just a S2+ in this finish and I’ve never noticed?
Thank you, looks really great to me..!
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Thanks!
Some discussion was in this thread about the stripping and polishing. If you are reading through the thread you should come across the info in a page or 2.
I will check… but if you search the thread for
Stripping
polishing
Lye
or even 2000 grit
you will find it. That S2+ was originally Blue. Stripped with Lye and wet sanded up to 2000 grit and polished with Mothers aluminum polish.

T18
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vwpieces wrote:
Thanks!
Some discussion was in this thread about the stripping and polishing. If you are reading through the thread you should come across the info in a page or 2.
I will check… but if you search the thread for
Stripping
polishing
Lye
or even 2000 grit
you will find it. That S2+ was originally Blue. Stripped with Lye and wet sanded up to 2000 grit and polished with Mothers aluminum polish.

OH, I got ya, I did pick up some what was it called Simply Purple or something down that line and have read of countless other options including what you’ve mentioned here, I’ve read through all the stripping processes I could find but I jump around a lot and hadn’t really seen such a fine example of the end product so this strikes me as a premium example for sure, you did a great job, so now I have to go get whatever it was that I bought out of my trunk and get to work, oh wow that is so clean, just a beautiful example of what I imagined and hoped for when I do mine. Really does put the spurs to me, well sort of.. ha ha
Thank you for the reply VW and by the way while I have you here, I am still sitting on that Ti X6 we talked about months ago on another thread and did follow your suggestion and went and looked through the pills/spacers made by Kirbu..?? The Russian fella?
I think I know what to put together when ordering these parts, but do you mind if when I get my thoughts in order here and a list if I PM it to you for review prior to making a colossal mistake?
I know you know what your doing and I can’t really say that about myself with confidence so would really appreciate someone to just double check before I jump?? Thanks VW
gchart
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I’ve been thinking about stripping & polishing one, but something I don’t remember hearing a verdict on… after stripping, will the aluminum oxidize? If so, do you just re-polish it? Clear coat it?

T18
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I had read that one person claimed that Museum wax worked well, I can’t confirm that of course.

Edit: By the way I have a lot of Mothers aluminum polish and I am reasonably certain that not only does it polish it also puts a protective coating down as well, how durable I don’t know but I do know that once I’d go through a spend a lot of time polishing the rims on my collectable it would hold up real well and for quit awhile in this rainy muddy state of WA. I could just hose spray the mud off and dry and it would still be shiny like when I polished.

vwpieces
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gchart wrote:
I’ve been thinking about stripping & polishing one, but something I don’t remember hearing a verdict on… after stripping, will the aluminum oxidize? If so, do you just re-polish it? Clear coat it?

Raw Aluminum Oxidizes instantly. It takes special primers to get paint to adhere so Clear Coat isn’t a great idea. After sanding and polishing it it does take some time for ti to generate actual cristals of oxidization, like years, if it’s not exposed to salts or other harsh environments. Oh, your skin oils may cause faster corrosion if your PH is acidic.

Once it is polished it will last for a long time. And already being polished makes it easy as cleaning it to get it back up to shiny with another quick polish. Car Wax will help on long term storage.

@ T18
I use Sodium Hydroxide crystals (Lye) dissolved in water and warmed in the microwave for a minute after dilution to help a weaker solution work better. Please read up on it as there are potential dangers involved. Wet sanding starts with 400 on a sanding block moving the block around the circumference. 800, 1200, 1500 and working up to 2000 Grit. Polishing with a Bounty paper towel with Mothers polish worked into the towel before using. Once the desired finish is achieved I use Dish detergent to wash off the Black polish from light and my hands. You will want to grease the threads after stripping anno off. Raw threads can be coarse and gall if tightened dry.
ALL sanding and polishing is by hand. Machines, buffers, dremels can not achieve a smooth mirror finish.

vwpieces
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T18 wrote:
I had read that one person claimed that Museum wax worked well, I can’t confirm that of course.

Edit: By the way I have a lot of Mothers aluminum polish and I am reasonably certain that not only does it polish it also puts a protective coating down as well, how durable I don’t know but I do know that once I’d go through a spend a lot of time polishing the rims on my collectable it would hold up real well and for quit awhile in this rainy muddy state of WA. I could just hose spray the mud off and dry and it would still be shiny like when I polished.

Have heard the Museum wax but never tried it. I like to wash anything I polish after. It changes the color to more silver, brighter IMO. Any wax willad the protection after washing. No joke some car enthusiasts use Pledge furniture polish as a quick shine. I am partial to Mothers Carnauba Gold. Easy to apply and get off the residue.

T18
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Thanks for the Info VW, cut and pasted to book of important stuff, to do someday very soon.. Smile

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