What did you mod today?

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CRX wrote:
I’ve had my eye on this little fella for a while


Quite chubby for a single AAA but the machining is beautiful !

gchart wrote:
X3 wrote:
I still have to find a clicky brass AAA
It’s only semi-clicky (technically a tailcap e-switch), but have you checked out Massdrop’s brass Lumintop Tool?

I saw it and was on the fence to go for it but that double-click to change mode is a no-go for me.
I would buy a Lumintop Tool mad of brass however (the same as the copper one, with a standard clicky switch)

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gchart wrote:
It’s only semi-clicky (technically a tailcap e-switch), but have you checked out Massdrop’s brass Lumintop Tool?
X3 wrote:
I saw it and was on the fence to go for it but that double-click to change mode is a no-go for me. I would buy a Lumintop Tool mad of brass however (the same as the copper one, with a standard clicky switch)

It can be done, especially with the brass version.
I really didn’t like the electronic switch on the tool ti.

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Geuzzz wrote:
Didn’t like the tint of my s41s xpg3. So I made it into a 4000k 219c cri92 triple.

Edit: FYI tint is now almost exactly the same is as my 219b s41 where I sliced the domes off with a hot knife.

Is this the kit from Kaidomain or Carclo + Noctigon board?

 Olight i3s, Olight S1, Olight S Mini, JetBeam Jet-1, BLF 348, Astrolux S41S, UF SK-98, Convoy S2+ 3*XP-G2, Convoy S2+ 3*XPL, Convoy S2+ 219CT, Convoy M1, Convoy C8, Brinyte B158, Courui D01, Convoy L6, Noctigon M43

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Zoomie mod today – Ultrafire U-F10

First , the switch :

Old one was an odd e-switch if i remember right .

New 16mm switch pcb , little omten 1288 and through board bypass .

This is what i used the pcb (you see in the previous pic) for …

Switch , final Wink

Driver :

Used an old 7135×4 board designed for SK68 , but used a fet . Flashed it with a simple 5 mode firmware (STAR based) .

Led :

Reflowed stock xm-l2 T6 in a sinkpad (i had to file the sides a little) . Also i dedomed it (hot dedome) …

Final pics Wink

And the new rubber boot , feels way better (but sadly magnet is now useless) :

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giorgoskok wrote:
Zoomie mod today – Ultrafire U-F10

First , the switch :

Old one was an odd e-switch if i remember right .

New 16mm switch pcb , little omten 1288 and through board bypass .

This is what i used the pcb (you see in the previous pic) for …

Switch , final Wink

Driver :

Used an old 7135×4 board designed for SK68 , but used a fet . Flashed it with a simple 5 mode firmware (STAR based) .

Led :

Reflowed stock xm-l2 T6 in a sinkpad (i had to file the sides a little) . Also i dedomed it (hot dedome) …

Final pics Wink

And the new rubber boot , feels way better (but sadly magnet is now useless) :

!{width:75%}http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy230/george_kok97/mods/20170206_1437...!

I like the size of it…can you post a beamshot of it zoomed all the way out? I’m thinking about getting one.

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djburkes wrote:
I like the size of it…can you post a beamshot of it zoomed all the way out? I’m thinking about getting one.

I’ll post them later tonight , with some measurements .

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OMG it’s so cute! It’s like the nitecore EC11 but made more cheaply Smile

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And some measurements :

With an old 16340 battery , i only have 2× 16340 lights Silly I need to get some high-drain batteries…

Mode Amp Draw
1 73mA
2 200mA
3 0,86A
4 1,89A
5 3,99A

Intensity : 29kcd

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BobbyMK wrote:

Is this the kit from Kaidomain or Carclo + Noctigon board?

It’s the Kaidomain set. Real easy mod. Some notes:

-The optic is less heigh than the original optic. I have put an oring between the optic and the lens (you can see it in the pic), also a nice place to put some diffuser material.
-Beam has more artifacts than the original optic (which is very clean, Carclo has more artifacts also)
-With some filing, the original ledboard mounting holes can be re-used
-Output without spring bypasses is a bit more than my S41 219B with spring bypass.

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Geuzzz wrote:

It’s the Kaidomain set. Real easy mod. Some notes:

-The optic is less heigh than the original optic. I have put an oring between the optic and the lens (you can see it in the pic), also a nice place to put some diffuser material.
-Beam has more artifacts than the original optic (which is very clean, Carclo has more artifacts also)
-With some filing, the original ledboard mounting holes can be re-used
-Output without spring bypasses is a bit more than my S41 219B with spring bypass.

Cool, thanks for the heads up, i have placed an order on kaidomain for triple board with xpl hi leds to fix the spare head i have (ver.1, the bad that came with the light).

Although my plan to fit the shorter optic is a little bit different than yours, i sanded the stock mcpcb and made a spacer from it so i can compensate for the different height of the optic, i think it will fit nicely.

This is my plan:

Stock led board sanded on both sides

Then soldered to the head

And last, fitment test with noctigon 3xp and carclo optic

Now i need to wait few weeks for the parts from kaidomain and hope that it will fit nicely as the set i tested.

 Olight i3s, Olight S1, Olight S Mini, JetBeam Jet-1, BLF 348, Astrolux S41S, UF SK-98, Convoy S2+ 3*XP-G2, Convoy S2+ 3*XPL, Convoy S2+ 219CT, Convoy M1, Convoy C8, Brinyte B158, Courui D01, Convoy L6, Noctigon M43

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Vollsion SP-11 with momentary tail switch, glow ring and magnetic tail
11mm Fet driver, XP-L HD 2c on sinkpad
Twisty or momentary on

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Olight TC15 Ti reworked

This had an MT-G2 but i’ve changed it to an XM-L2 3c with 5 mode driver.

XM-L2 3c emitter
GITD bezel
Recessed glass
5 mode driver
Lockout function
Spring on positive contact
10440 cell
1.8A max current

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Very nice mods CRX Love

djburkes wrote:
I like the size of it…can you post a beamshot of it zoomed all the way out? I’m thinking about getting one.

Sorry for not posting the requested beamshots … I’m modifying it again Silly , i thought a dedomed xp-g2 would be better in this little light .

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Always hated the Honk’n tailcap switch of the Tool. Gave away the Cree but still had the Nichia remaining…
Now its a twisty head and much smaller. Still can’t compete with my Copper i3E for EDC.
Magnets are more than strong enough to hold it in any position on any steel surface.






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vwpieces wrote:


Neat idea and great execution! Thumbs Up

How about a thin disc of copper sheet to hide the magnet? Would that reduce the magnet’s pull force much?

Did you knock the lanyard ears off with hand tools? It looks great.

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Snipped the ears off with end cutter pliers. Any cutter will work, it’s soft enough. Filed flat, sanded and rounded the edge. The same 12mm magnet sits perfectly in the outer recess or between the ears. So a 12mm copper disc will fit into the outer recess. Inner recess just outside the magnet is just under 10mm. Could be opened up slightly and a third magnet of 10mmX1mm could take that space if capping itt weakens the hold too much. I do not think it will get too weak capped off though. Does hold well even to a pipe that minimizes the surface contact area.

The 12X3mm and 8X2mm magnets are glued with CA glue and remain conductive. I made the mistake trying to glue the magnets into the copper tailcap and lost continuity. Sucked getting the glue out again. So it is not sealed. I will be making a cap of some sort with a disc to get it sealed.

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I put a new tailcap in my ultrasonic humidifier.

I wish I were kidding. The gasket in the water tank deteriorated from the water contact and I couldn’t find a replacement. Then I discovered that a Convoy tailcap was a perfect fit. Whodathunkit?

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I’m always using plumbing parts for flashlights. Turnabout is fair play.

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Rufusbduck wrote:
I’m always using plumbing parts for flashlights. Turnabout is fair play.
LOL Made my day.
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Last week I put together the Texas Avenger driver for my Small Sun ZY-T08 for an MT-G2 mod.

And today I started to modify the light to handle the heat. I have a 10mm thick copper piece. I cutted a circle from it to fit in the driver cavity.


Then from the remain material I made another circle and soldered together to double the thickness.


After that I cut out the led shelf from pill, and now I can put the led star directly on the copper.

I need to glue in the copper with some fujik, then flash the driver, and modify the switch board for series battery contact, put in the led and solder wires. Maybe at the weekend I have time to finish it.

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Yesterday, Nitecore NU20 with magnets, clip and auxiliary red LED

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BLF 348 with a Tiny10DD.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Rufusbduck wrote:
BLF 348 with a Tiny10DD.

Cool! I mean: Hot!

link to djozz tests 

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I posted this in DEL's OSHPark driver thread, but should have been done it here. Almost 3 years ago I modded a Yezl Y3 for my cousin's son who's into hunting. Frequently they are out before dawn and he wanted something powerful with some distance. I recommended the Y3 at the time. The original mod was a Nanjg nodded with a FET:

The switch eventaully gave out - didn't come loose, but internally there was no more spring action.

 

After it's all modded/cleaned up:

I did 2 boards. Will get to the 2nd some day:

I used Arctic Alumina epoxy to sure up the switch:

22 AWG bypass on the spring. I also applied some solder paste on one side of the LED+ pad, then the iron on the other - think the holes filled up well w/solder. The bypass is soldered to the pad with the thru holes, so minimum path to the LED wire:

Seems to be my favorite LED right now. A KD XPL2 V6 3B, on a KD 20 mm MCPCB. Used 22 AWG because didn't think I'd get the clearance with 20 AWG. This is an early model Y3, and has a 23 mm wide flat reflector base. Later models I have use a smaller flat surface and different centering piece. The new ones need the centering piece significantly trimmed, sanded down, then the MCPCB is too low,so have to use a copper shim to elevate it. This one did not require a shim:

Here's a better shot in my lightbox studio on the 2nd driver:

Assembled view of the LED, 2nd in moon mode:

The driver fit great, nice and snug with just a little filing. The results? Well, it's impressive:

On a LK @4.20V:

  • 8.9A at the tail (clamp meter) - wow!
  • 2,280 lumens @start, 2,150 @30 secs
  • 123 kcd measured at 5m (700 meters)

Originally, this light had a Nanjg jury rigged with a FET on it, and a XM-L2 U2 1A domed. This was from May 2014. Originally, this is what it did:

On a SONY 26650 fully charged (best performing cell at the time):

  • 5.3A at the tail (DMM w/heavy gauge leads)
  • 1,680 lumens @start, 1,600 @30 secs
  • 121 kcd measured at 5m (696 meters)

So it got a 34% bump in lumens @30 secs, barely measurable bump in throw. The XPL2's don't throw as well as the XPL or XML2 - I've seen this in couple of other mods.

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Today I took some time to mod my second S2+.

Replaced glass with AR coated one.

Replaced OP reflector with SMO.

Replaced XML U2 with XPL HI V2-1A

Replaced 7135x6 3/5 mode with 7135x8 with biscotti firmware

Also replaced stock wires with better ones and black tailcap with blue.

 

 

Having problems with driver working too fast and almost impossible to program modes. Ordered tools needed for flashing so I will try to fix it when arrives.

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