Review : Utorch UT02 Flashlight (XHP35 / 26650 / usb rechargeable)(in progress)

[mrheosuper]

@Lfatman

Hello.

As the resistor mod using an R050 gets similar readings than Manker U21, and I fear it may be dangerous for the driver, I made this mod using an R100 from Fasttech.

These are my readings

Modes:
1- ———-
2- 0,20A
3- 0,62A
4- 1,34A
5- 3,85A.

I ran it in turbo mode in periods of five minutes until the voltage dropped to 3,5V

4,14V. 3,85A. 144.400 Cd.
4,01V. 5,19A. 146.160 Cd.
3,90V. 4,29A. 143.600 Cd.
3,69V. 4,47A. 145.080 Cd.
3,56V. 4,60A. 143.280 Cd.

In five minutes it gets very hot.

At 3,5V turbo mode is not maintained and the flashlight only has four modes.

Will the resitor change the output of all modes, or just turbo
I dont want 50 lumen when in low mode

[SaniPE]

@mrheosuper

To show where is your flashlight when it’s in dark
Or when you want to show to your friends that cool “breathing mode”

Oh, interesting feature. Thanks!

[Qwertus]

@Qwertus;898140

Как оказалось, в этом фонаре … есть недокументированные режимы. Для доступа к ним, надо при включении фонаря удерживать нажатой кнопку в течение 10 сек. Через 10 сек. фонарь мигнёт 2 раза на максимальной яркости и выключится. Всё, теперь фонарь перешёл на скрытый уровень. На этом уровне к линейке Strobe/Breath Flash/Sos добавляются Turbo+ без степдауна/Beacon/Постоянное свечение кнопки синим цветом. Про последний так и не понял для чего он, возможно, у него функция аналогична Breath Flash, т.е. такой же локатор, но не переменного, а постоянного синего свечения. При разряженном аккумуляторе цвет меняется с синего на сиреневый. (Индикатор состояния аккумулятора?)

Turbo+ без степдауна при комнатной температуре работает около 10 минут, затем фонарь автоматически отключается по перегреву.
Температура тушки достигает 50 °C. При мокром охлаждении отключения не происходит, аккумулятора 26650 хватает на 52 минуты такого режима, но даже при охлаждении тушка прогревается до 47 °C.

Кроме того, если при включённом режиме Beacon сделать двойной клик, то фонарь выключится, а при включении по одинарному клику войдёт в режим подстройки яркости режима Low. Он имеет 21 градацию, яркость меняется от минимальной к максимальной по одиночному клику, для запоминания желаемой яркости фонарь надо выключить. Визуально режим Low можно сделать равным по яркости режиму Med1, т.е. от 15 до 100 люмен.

Для выхода из скрытого уровня надо так же при включении фонаря удерживать нажатой кнопку в течение 10 сек. Через 10 сек. фонарь мигнёт 1 раз на максимальной яркости и выключится, просигнализировав о выходе из скрытого уровня.

http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showthread.php?t=32764

@aslpg

My UT02 I received yesterday and it is great.
As it turned out, the flashlight, as in U21 are undocumented modes. To access them: from off hold down the button for 10 seconds. After 10 sec. flashlight blink 2 times for maximum brightness
and turns off. Now we are in a hidden level. In this state, the group Strobe / Breath Flash / SOS added Turbo + (no step down) / Beacon / Constantly glowing blue button.
What’s the last mode I do not understand (solid blue light). With a discharged battery changes color from blue to purple. (Battery indicator?)
Turbo + no step-down: working at room temperature until automatically shuts down due to overheating (when the head temperature reaches 50 ° C).
Also, if the mode is enabled Beacon and we will do two-click a flashlight off. After one click enters in which you can adjust the brightness in Low mode.
It has 21 degrees of brightness and adjusts from minimum to maximum (each click changes the brightness). To store the desired light intensity, a flashlight must be switched off.
Visually Low mode, you can do an equal brightness mode Med1, ie from 15 to 100 lumens.
To exit the hidden group acts the same way: when the light is turned off hold down the button for 10 seconds.
After 10 sec. blink 1 time for maximum brightness and turn off which means dropping the hidden level.
Have fun!

Thanks for the translation. But so it will be a little more correct. I think so.

Мне, конечно, не жалко, но осадочек появился…

[Nicolicous]

Hmm it looks like Manker light U21 and it have the Manker logos on the driver as well tail switch

It also smell like Manker too but it’s Utorch 02

just changed the tail cap hahaha

[Ragsy]

There’s a few UT02 review topics floating around but I thought I’d place my question in this one.

While I’m waiting for mine to arrive, can I ask if anyone knows whether the new short version of the Keeppower 26650’s work in this torch?

I’ve got them in my L6 so it’d be handy to use the same batteries

thanks

[longmire]

@Ragsy

There’s a few UT02 review topics floating around but I thought I’d place my question in this one.

While I’m waiting for mine to arrive, can I ask if anyone knows whether the new short version of the Keeppower 26650’s work in this torch?

I’ve got them in my L6 so it’d be handy to use the same batteries

thanks

I tried one of mine very briefly and it worked. The only 26650 that I couldn’t get to work was the Klarus battery that comes with the G20 (button top). I also had trouble with a button top protected Keeppower 18650. Everything else worked, which were flat top or semi-flat tops.

[giorgoskok]

They should work without issue , i don’t have one to test , but it has enough space for batteries .

[Ragsy]

Thanks
So how about I wait until it arrives then try the ones I have before buying anymore 26650’s
I’ll report back

[longmire]

I just received my UT02, and I like it overall, but I HATE the switch. It works fine, I just don’t like how it feels. Oh well…

[gastonpatagonico]

Hi, someone who modified resistance for a r100, could you tell me if the modification is still stable? Thank you!

[JasonWW]

I’ll try and generalize things, correct me if I’m wrong.

If I buy a UT02 now, it will probably only be 2.5 amp at the battery and deliver 40% to 60% below specs. So non modders should steer clear.

The modders can add a R050 to R100 and boost the power back up to stock levels (1300lm)

If this resistor mod causes the drivers to break, the lights can then be used as hosts. An xpl hi and a buck driver can be installed and you can get above spec output (1500lm).

Does this sound about right?

If so, I might get me one just for the heck of it.

[JasonWW]

@gastonpatagonico

Hi, someone who modified resistance for a r100, could you tell me if the modification is still stable? Thank you!

The odds are good since this is still below spec.

Now the R050 is the one more likely to cause problems over time.

Has anyone seen the Manker drivers that put out over 5 amps?

I’m wondering if they originally used a R025 sense resistor (which was later swapped to an R050 to reduce output).

[giorgoskok]

@JasonWW

@gastonpatagonico

Hi, someone who modified resistance for a r100, could you tell me if the modification is still stable? Thank you!

The odds are good since this is still below spec.

Now the R050 is the one more likely to cause problems over time.

Has anyone seen the Manker drivers that put out over 5 amps?

I’m wondering if they originally used a R025 sense resistor (which was later swapped to an R050 to reduce output).

They used the same resistors , probably they changed something in the firmware.

[JasonWW]

@giorgoskok

@JasonWW

@gastonpatagonico

Hi, someone who modified resistance for a r100, could you tell me if the modification is still stable? Thank you!

The odds are good since this is still below spec.

Now the R050 is the one more likely to cause problems over time.

Has anyone seen the Manker drivers that put out over 5 amps?

I’m wondering if they originally used a R025 sense resistor (which was later swapped to an R050 to reduce output).

They used the same resistors , probably they changed something in the firmware.

Yes, you are correct. Tom’s driver picture is from a Manker. I was thinking it was from the weaker Utorch.

After comparing the battery loads I can see that all modes, besides low, have been shifted down. They no doubt changed the firmware to maintain good spacing. Costs them nothing as well.

Turbo is 55% less
High is 47% less
Mid 2 is 39% less
Mid 1 is 20% less

How has your light with the added R050 resistor held up? Still working good?

[giorgoskok]

Mine has been modded completely now , running a fet driver (narsil firmware , ldo) and dedomed xp-g2 .

[JasonWW]

@giorgoskok

Mine has been modded completely now , running a fet driver (narsil firmware , ldo) and dedomed xp-g2 .

I found where Mitko said he bought 2 of the early Manker lights that drew 5.5 tail amps and they both failed within a month.

I’m guessing the stock driver’s just can’t handle that load. Maybe adding an R100, creating 3.8 tail amps is the way to go?

[JasonWW]

Maybe it has something to do with these boost drivers pulling more amps as the battery voltage gets lower?

That’s the opposite of most buck drivers.

[Ragsy]

@Ragsy

There’s a few UT02 review topics floating around but I thought I’d place my question in this one.

While I’m waiting for mine to arrive, can I ask if anyone knows whether the new short version of the Keeppower 26650’s work in this torch?

I’ve got them in my L6 so it’d be handy to use the same batteries

thanks

Confirmed : the short version protected 26650 KP’s fit. I bought them here
ebay supersport600

[nodoubt]

will these batteries work in this light ?”

https://www.amazon.com/ThorFire-5000mah-Battery-rechargeable-Flashlight/dp/B016D67OXA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1488639159&sr=8-5&keywords=26650+battery

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

Those are protected cells and I don’t see anything there stating where the cut-off protection kicks in, you might run into issues with those as this light can pull close to 6A when a freshly charged cell is used and that will go up as the cell drains due to the regulated style Boost driver. They could also be a bit on the long side, regardless I feel like they’d fail due to the protection circuits.

We tend to shy away from cells ending in “Fire”, they just have a low track record. Try Liion Wholesalers and get some Basen cells or the 4200 Efest, something like that will do fine.